Log in
Register
Reply With Quoteis there an alternate to the edge painting besides taking out the windshields?
your on the right track.... its called reducer. Typically your basecoat (color) is mixed 50/50 with reducer, so 2 quarts of pure basecoat once reduced yields one sprayable gallon of paint. Clear coat is reduced differently depending on the brand. its usually between 10-30% ratio. The more you reduce it, the more it "levels out" yielding a smoother surface finish and less orange peel, on the flip side, its also more prone to have runs, which are a PITA to get out.Originally Posted by ADExternal
When we sprayed my car, we put down 3 coats of clear reduced 15%, the orange peel was a little more than I had wanted, so the 4th and final coat we reduced it 20% and I had a few runs on the bumper and edge of the door. It was a PITA to get it out, but they are out, it just involves very very careful wetsanding and good polishing.
That price of $6k isnt bad because that includes a new OEM 1/4 panel and the install of the 1/4 panel, typical 1/4 panel install labor is roughly 14-16 hours, plus the part is about $400 or so (the shop is charging you LIST price, not ebay or hookup prices). So figure thats about $1500 worth of work when its said and done, so the other body work and respray is $4500, which isnt too bad. The front and rear glass have to come out of the car either way for a good paint job, the idea is not to leave any "open breaks" in the refinish. An open break is when you stop the paint/clear coat mid panel, or near the edge but not to the edge. On a roof for example you want to pull the front and rear glass out so you can end the refinish under the glass seals, this will prevent the clear from peeling or flaking off from moisture or debris getting under the edge.
99' Galant ES
4G64/63T
AEM EMS
is there an alternate to the edge painting besides taking out the windshields?
2002 ES i4 SOHC Mitsubishi Galant
as for the macco jobs, they screw you for body labor, but there paint work is average if you prep the car yourself and deliver it to them. i did that on a restore job on an old V-DUB that came into the shop i was working on, they wanted like 7 grand in total, i did the work myself for the guy and preped, primed and sealed and sent to macco and saved the guy like 4 grand. but a full color change is very exspensive with jaming and under the hood lol. it all depends on how much work you can do yourself.
not really, Stewi hit that one out of the ball park. but with the edge or trying to blend in, its reall hard to pull off on such a small area, and then wet sand and buff is even harder. and masking is a pain too. its just better to remove the front and rear windsheilds to make it easyer and make the job come out better
when you really repaint an entire car. How far in do you paint? like do they open the doors and tape off the door trims and paint or an outside spray is consider a entire repaint.
2002 ES i4 SOHC Mitsubishi Galant
well, repaint could have different means for all, a repaint for some is just exterior, and for some is every visably painted area of the car, like under the hood or in the door jambs or in the trunk and so on. a typical repaint isnt much but to go into jambing doors and stuff gets really exspensive
*EDIT* but for most of us here a repaint is a full change of color, and usually done right, thats removing doors, fenders, bumper covers, the hood and anything else that needs a coat of paint. so a full repaint could be very costly if done right.
Last edited by Way Fast Galant; 04-30-2009 at 12:01 AM
would you consider it worth it or recommend doing visably area if the person is doing a total strip down and another color? though the color im gettingis metallic bronze which should match the tan.
2002 ES i4 SOHC Mitsubishi Galant
well, if you have a close match to your origanal color i would stick with it and just paint what can be seen with doors closed, meaning the visable areas outside the car. i was saying before like a change from green to yellow for example. but if its that close and you can live with it, go for it.
If i paint the entire outside metallic bronze and not inside then would clearing the entire outside throughly to the inside of the door would stop the edge from peeling/chipping?
Edit: Im mostly concerned about making this next paint job last. and not cheap like Maaco crap
2002 ES i4 SOHC Mitsubishi Galant
well, if i was to do a better then maaco job, i would recomend removal of the doors and fenders and bumper covers and hood and trunk and windsheilds to make the job right if you want it to last. i would go this route if you want the job done right so the parts are painted right and not just masked on the car, wich do peal in time and comback lol.
hmmm, dam i never took off a windshield before.... the trunk area is fine the engine bay has its own color (yellow) but would you consider taking off the hood and covering the engine bay to get the fender inside edges? Dam, i feel like this is gonna be a harder/more costly project then i assumded.
2002 ES i4 SOHC Mitsubishi Galant
paint jobs can do that to you. its all in how picky you are and how good you want it to look. a simple respray at my shop is like 700 dollars, but thats not the best of work, all that is masked is the windows. it looks good at first but will peal later on. so its just how much you can spend.
wasnt it how well the prime and gloss that would saver the paint?
2002 ES i4 SOHC Mitsubishi Galant
Posting Rules
Bookmarks