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Reply With Quotenever mind I figured it out
Well if you hook them up in series they will show 8 ohms at the amp. The amp puts out a certain amount of power at a certain resistance. The less resistance the more power the amp puts out, but the more power the amp puts out, the more heat generated and the more stress the amp is put under.Originally Posted by I4betterthanUR4
Normally, it works like this (as example. The numbers are made up.)
"AMP" has a max output rating of 1000W at 2 ohms. It is a Class D monoblock.
At 2 ohms it would be 500W RMS and 1000W Peak
At 4 ohms it would be something like 250W RMS and 500W Peak
At 8 ohms it would be something like 125W RMS and 250W Peak
So 2 ohms versus 8 ohms is four times the power. Your amp has to be able to handle the stress of pushing power at 2 ohms though. Some amps can't, especially 2 channel amps that have a bridging option. They are usually only 4 ohm stable.
Most monoblocks are 2 ohms stable and many are 1 ohm stable.
What kind of subs did you get from your friend? Is there one voice coil per sub or two voice coils? The way to tell that is how many connections there are on the back of each sub. If there are two on each side or one in each four corners, then it is a dual voice coil and your options for resistance are widened. If it is a single voice coil, then you have two choices for resistance.
If they are 12" subs, then you might just want to use one of them, depending on how much power they are rated to handle. If you try to push them both with the one amp and the amp cannot provide enough clean power to the subs at high volume, then you might melt the voice coils in the subs and then they will both be useless.
REMEMBER THIS!
MOST OF THE TIME, it is best to OVER POWER a sub than to UNDER POWER it. When you under power a sub, the amp pushes dirty, clipped signals to the sub and it melts the voice coil. Take some pictures for me so I can see what you have.
Where are you located?
never mind I figured it out
should be the blue wire that says remote you just need a wire that cuts off when you turn the radio off so your amp wont run down the battery
Once again, you are the man. I called you today did you get my message? Anyway, thanks for breaking that down it makes a lot more sense to me now. Just one of those subs bumps man! At least to my standards.... I wish I could hook up both because that would just be the shit but I'm gonna play it safe and just power one with that amp. So when I want to hook up the other one I gotta find another amp and wire that in with the first one right?
One other thing I got a wire kit at wal mart (dont judge me) all the bigger kits were gone so I bought the next best one and it has a 16 foot power 3 foot ground and they are only 16gauge is that ok? On the box it said it was rated for 275w so I thought it'd be ok but now I'm wishing I got the bigger one. Whatever, as long as it works right? and I only have one of the subs hooked up. Before I forget the subs are 12" 4 ohm 200rms and 400w max. Can someone explain rms. I also have those two 5inch midrange speakers I want to wire as a parallel to the one stock speaker in my door so I'll have two speakers per door. And wire the tweeters in with the rear outputs one tweeter per side. Is it ok to wire two speakers in parallel to one radio output? And, the tweeters wont be parallel they will just be spliced in with the rear inputs is that ok as well? Sorry about the stupid questions...
Yeah, I started to call you back, but after I got home from work today, I sat down and watched a movie with the gf and we fell asleep. Sorry. I'll call tomorrow.Once again, you are the man. I called you today did you get my message?
I figured it would be that way. That amp matches perfect with just one of those subs. I'll explain why down below...Anyway, thanks for breaking that down it makes a lot more sense to me now. Just one of those subs bumps man! At least to my standards.... I wish I could hook up both because that would just be the shit but I'm gonna play it safe and just power one with that amp.
Nope. Just get a totally new amp that pushes at least 400W RMS at 2 Ohms and you will be set to push both of those with the one amp. You don't want to mix and match amps and subs. That will make it extremely difficult to make things sound right and it is cluttered and ugly.So when I want to hook up the other one I gotta find another amp and wire that in with the first one right?
You did it right. That is perfect like I said above, especially because of the type of music you listen to.One other thing I got a wire kit at wal mart (dont judge me) all the bigger kits were gone so I bought the next best one and it has a 16 foot power 3 foot ground and they are only 16gauge is that ok? On the box it said it was rated for 275w so I thought it'd be ok but now I'm wishing I got the bigger one. Whatever, as long as it works right? and I only have one of the subs hooked up.
RMS = Nominal Power Handling/OutputBefore I forget the subs are 12" 4 ohm 200rms and 400w max. Can someone explain rms.
Basically, that is the TRUE rating that the speaker/amp can either handle or put out constantly without failing. That is what you always want to look at when buying stuff. If you look close, walmart products like sony and cheap pioneer's ratings are different from everyone else's. They lie. That's right, I said it.
For instance, my first pioneer sub was bought from walmart. On the box it said "800W MAX POWER!" I got all excited until I learned about the nominal power handling and then looked on the side of the box to see that it said 200W RMS. That kinda pissed me off.
Looking back now, if I was to take that old sub and hook it up to my kicker 1000.1 amp that pushes 1100 watts at even half the volume, it'd rip that sub to shreds. They are rated WAY over what they can really handle. This same concept goes with their amps too.
The Sony Xplod amp that I borrowed from one of my ricer friends said 1000W in big bold letters on the top of the amp. I hooked it up to my sub and turned it all the way up and just laughed cuz I knew that was one of the biggest lies yet...
That will be fine. I don't know how well it would sound though. You might be happier hooking them up in the back and doing all four outputs front, rear, left and right.I also have those two 5inch midrange speakers I want to wire as a parallel to the one stock speaker in my door so I'll have two speakers per door. And wire the tweeters in with the rear outputs one tweeter per side. Is it ok to wire two speakers in parallel to one radio output?
Are those tweeters behind a high pass filter? It's a little box that has inputs for the speaker wires and outputs for the tweeters. Or are they just plug and play with a small capacitor looking thing on the back of them? I would be wary of hooking those up directly to the radio. It might tear them up.And, the tweeters wont be parallel they will just be spliced in with the rear inputs is that ok as well?
There are very few stupid questions. You are actually asking good valid questions and I think that many TGC members would agree with me. Maybe even TJ. lmaoSorry about the stupid questions...
Hey man don't worry about not calling back, I got this. Plus it makes me have to research on my own which I should be doing anyway. Thanks for breaking down the rms I'll definitely keep an eye out when I go shopping for bigger stuff in the future. Alright, my whole plan is to keep all four stock speakers and run two more 5" speakers in the front for a total of 6 speakers. And those two extra speakers are going to be powered off the same source as the stock speaker just in a parallel connection. So one extra 5" run in a parallel on each side. Plus the tweeters are going to be wired to the rear outputs along with the two stock rear speakers so 6 speakers plus two tweets plus the sub. Is that too much. With the speakers running parallel wont that mean only half the power is going to each speaker now? I tried out some different configurations and I cant tell at a low/medium volume. What do you think? I would like to at least get the tweeters in to cover the full spectrum and since I listen to alot of rock I dont want the bass to over power the rest of the music.
Dude you aren't asking stupid questions at least to me they are being very helpful because Im planning on some sound upgrade and Im a newb so keep up the good questions and Thanx to Yougin for all the helpful answers and the simple vocabulary ;)
Can you take a picture of the tweeters and everything that came with them, or can you give a model number so we can see how they need to be hooked up? I think you will be fine without the 5" speakers. I really don't think the radio can push enough power for you to need two speakers in each door versus one.
Depending on the radio, if you hook them up in parallel, they will receive twice as much power as before, but it's combined. So, the original speaker will still receive just as much power as before, and the new speaker will receive the same power as the original speaker did.
Now, if you hook them up in series, the power will be cut in half, and then divided between the speakers.
Example.
Say your radio puts out 50W to each channel at 4 ohms. (Your typical mid range speaker impedance.) If you hook two of those 4 ohm speakers in parallel, the resistance will be 2 ohms instead of 4, and the radio would try and push out maybe 100W at 2 ohms. That being said, the radio needs to be able to do that and still be stable. That just depends on the radio.
If you hook the two 4 ohm speakers in series, the resistance will be 8 ohms and the radio will probably only push 25 watts total to both speakers, which means that each speaker only gets a mere 12.5 watts of power to be driven.
Big difference, huh? :)
And I guess you found a box for your sub?
Last edited by youngin3; 05-30-2009 at 08:43 AM
No camera as of yet. I just got those 5 inchers out of the home stereo and just figured it would sound twice as good with two more speakers... My g doesnt have speakers in the rear doors and my accord did and I think the accord sounded better so I was going off that. I wish I had an amp to power both subs and multiple speakers.
Yeah, ten dollars for a really well put together box its even carpeted. Good ol' craigslist. It's not ported and I read somewhere the sub has better response when it is. Can I drill a 2 inch hole in the back and call it good? Or is it more scientific than that? When I try to look it up it just says its a box with a hole going to the back...And I guess you found a box for your sub?
P.S: You never told me what your set up is. I'm curious.
Last edited by I4betterthanUR4; 05-30-2009 at 10:16 AM
What do you want to upgrade to? Make sure to keep us updated when you do.
you cant really just drill a hole and call it a day, on the specs of the sub it should say how big to make the port like depth and width for round and square ports. if you can get the model number to the subs we can help you out.
i would hook everything up and see how it sounds before adding speakers to the headunit. your best bet is to just upgrade the stock speakers and it would sound 100x's better.
Yeah, even putting the extra speakers in parallell it sounded like shit. So for now I have the four stock speakers and the sub. Which I'm happy with : ) It was definitely a task drilling the fire wall and running the cable under the carpet to the trunk but man I'm really happy with the out come. I ran the power cable on the left side audio on the right side so it doesnt interfere. Since the cheapo wal mart rca cables werent shielded. I'm not going to port the box and just leave everything as is until I have more money to spend and then I'm going to upgrade all the speakers and hook up the second sub. It's addicting, I wasn't much into car audio before but I really am now. Thanks for all the help guys and a big shout out to Dalton cause he knows his shit.
Okay. Like littlerick said, you can't just drill a hole in a box for it to be ported. You have to make a port that has length and diameter. That is where boxes get complicated.
Ported boxes are really for rap music and spl (sound production level) which from what you have told me in earlier posts, you don't want.
Ported box:
PRO: Sometimes twice as loud + Deeper bass
CON: Sloppy response + easier to break a sub
Sealed box:
PRO: Tighter response + smaller size
CON: Not as loud
Top end in my system is two memphis 5.75" component speakers in the front doors, and the stock Infinity 6x9s in the back. They are pushed by a kicker 350.4 amp.
Head unit is some Dual brand unit that I got from walmart because I needed a new one and it was only 100 bucks. I was dumb when I got it, or otherwise I wouldn't have wasted my money there.
For bass I have two Kicker CVR 12s in a big sealed box. They are pushed by a kicker ZX1000.1 amp. No capacitor for me. I have one, but didn't hook it up. I think it is just too small, or it doesn't work. My lights dim a little when it is turned up loud.
I like my system a lot, and so do my friends because the speakers are so loud, and everyone else just has big subs with their stock speakers not amped.
yeah my factory infinity speakers are all powered by my pioneer flip out dvd player. i only have a 1000w ma audio amp and 2 ma audio 10s. it sounds decent. does your 3rd brake light hit the back glass alot? i'm thinking of putting a rubber seal around it so when it hits it wont hit the glass and make noise. i have a 3 farad cap and it helps a lil but not that much.
Im going to replace all four factory speakers of my 8G DE for some Alpines Type S 85watts RMS and push them with a 1,600 watts Boss Amp. Im doing this next week
Decent set up youngin, omega I want an amp like that man. How much did you spend? Holy hell, after driving for about 30 min with my bass turned up in 80 degree weather the amp became so hot I actually have a little burn mark from touching it. The top is plexi glass so I'm definitely going to cut a hole and mount a 120mm computer fan to it which I think will help a lot. My volt meter is reading 14 while driving and 12 when its just running off the battery so everything seems stable :)
The amp is used its like $100 or $90 but i dont have it right now im still planning but now im planning on buying a audiofonics amp cause they are good, look good and are relatively cheap.
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfmYeah, ten dollars for a really well put together box its even carpeted. Good ol' craigslist. It's not ported and I read somewhere the sub has better response when it is. Can I drill a 2 inch hole in the back and call it good? Or is it more scientific than that? When I try to look it up it just says its a box with a hole going to the back...
try these http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31
Im trying to turn my sealed into a ported too.
Converting a sealed box into a ported box makes the ported box too small most of the time and it is tuned too high. I would just build a ported box from scratch, or buy one.
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2001 Mitsubishi Galant DE
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