Hey I just noticed my bass volume will fluctuate. Like when I'm listening to a song with a single steady beat some notes will be really loud and then it will just get soft for a bit and then loud again. It does this on every song so I know its not the song. What could this be?
Last edited by I4betterthanUR4; 06-02-2009 at 02:40 PM
I'm looking at buying a new amp and I need some things explained. First off I have two 12" subs, theyre rated at 200w rms 400 peak 4ohm. If I connect them in a series would they be 2 ohm? If I'm looking at an amp that's rated:
4 x 75W @ 4 ohms (0.04% THD)
4 x 100W @ 2 ohms (0.3% THD)
2 x 200W @ 4 ohms (0.3% THD)
Does that mean it would power 2(speakers) x 200w @ 2 ohms? or would I hook up the 2 subs seperate (not in a series) and get 2 x 200w @ 4 ohm? Thanks.
its probably only stable at 4 ohms when you have it bridged. i wouldnt get that amp, it would be getting the 200w per sub but i would get something with a little more power. and yes you would hook them up seperate to get the 200w x 2 @ 4 ohm.
if i where you i would get a 4ch amp for your speakers, about 250 - 400 watts and a class d mono block for your subs with a cap, you will be much happier with the quality of the sound and the bass that you produce.
i have a 2ch amp for my 6x9's and a class d for my two 10's, with a 1.5 fared cap my sound quality is amazing and the bass hits hard from only 10's.
1996 galant s
finishing up my 2.4L DOHC, 10.5:1, precision sc60, meth injected MONSTER.
So with the subs I have now what would you reccomend to get the most out of them?
2 x 200w rms
400w max
4 ohm
single voice coil
Edit: ^Thanks 306m, I was probably typing my question when you submitted that.
i have a 1800 watt kenwood, my subs are 600 watts rms, and they are clean.
the 200-400 watt was for the speakers i forgot to specify that sorry.
if i where you with the subs that you have i would get a mono block amp thats at least 700 watts but going bigger isnt bad, you would rather over power your subs then under power your amp.
and make sure that you get a cap, they make a difference and they take a lot of load off of your alternator. 1 fared would work well for you.
1996 galant s
finishing up my 2.4L DOHC, 10.5:1, precision sc60, meth injected MONSTER.
yeah get a good 400 watt class d amp and it should do the trick
Thanks guys, now I know what to look for.
+1Originally Posted by littlerick
And that is 400 watts RMS. Always match the RMS... do not even look at the Max wattage. Do not get a amp at 700 watts RMS or you will blow your speakers.... and just upgrade your battery. IMO you don't need a cap...
yeah I'm looking for a 400w. Cheaper the better. Anyone selling theirs or see one for a good price?
Alright I hope some one can help me out real quick. I'm looking at this http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/...Fosgate_400a4/
and the guy wants to charge me $100 for it. its rated at 200w X 2 @ 4ohms. does that mean it has two channels that each sub would be wired seperate to get 200w to each? If its bridge wouldnt i have to run it parallel at 2 ohms? I'm still confused is this even a good amp?
Last edited by I4betterthanUR4; 06-20-2009 at 02:08 PM
this guy is only askin 80 for this one http://www.shopping.com/xPF-car_ampl...xplod_xm_1652z
would it blow my subs? rms power @ 4 ohms 1000wx2.....
i wouldnt get either of those, get a 1 or 2 channel. i mean you could use the fosgate and it would match the subs but my personal preference is getting a good class d 1 channel 2 ohm stable amp
i would definately not get a sony amp, i've known too many people that had problems out of them
Thanks, I probably wont get either of those. I'm just getting really frustrated cause I just picked up a box that will hold two of my 12's and nothing to power them with and I have $100 burning a hole in my pocket.
I'm looking at wiring kits to mimic what they have in the kit by just going out and buying the wire and ring terminals that I need. I was wondering why some 4ga kits are rated for 400w max and some are 600w max etc. A 4ga power and ground should be good for the amp I plan on running for these two subs right? (400-500w rms) I'm also going to buy an in-line fuse holder but what amp fuse should I get? Thanks.
Alright got another newb question. Looking at this for $50 http://reviews.cnet.com/car-amplifie...tag=mncol;rnav
it says 250 Watt - 2 Ohm - THD 0.8 % - 14.4V DC - 2 channel(s) now how would i get my twelves that are rated at 4 ohm do 2 ohms? And would this amp be any good?
first of all if you're going to be running subs that are rated 400 watts, why you going with a amp that is 250 watts?
now to answer your question...
you can get 1 sub that is a DVC (dual voice coil) with 4 ohms per coil to do 2 ohms by running both VC's in parallel. if you add a second sub like that, then it would push it down to 1 ohm.
if you have 2 subs and they are both 4ohm SVC (single voice coil), then that would make both together 2ohms.
LOL that sony isn't 1000 watts rms
alright well the subs are 200rms 400 max. I found this for $40 bucks http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+PS2-1250.html
im very tempted. with does the different classes mean? this on is a class a/b. what do you think should I save my money? this one seems to match what im looking for and cheap
it's a piece.
for subs, you need class D or BD, nothing else.
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