Hmm so i was thinking...

[mko]

Yes the ECU will recognize the signal regardless. Although CAS positioning changed the ECU's did not. (minus eprom :P)

Yes it will recognize the signal and will start the engine just for one time and it will throw a code and it wont start untill you clear it

[seth98esT]

I believe that only affected 1g CAS with 2g ECUs. I ran into the Random Misfire code for awhile that would cause my car not to start, or if its already running, it will drop down to 2 cylinders and run horrible until I cleared the code.

I fixed this by installing a potentiometer on the CAS signal line. Theres a vfaq on it I believe.

[bmore303]

Oooh I see, maybe you can find one used without the uneeded bit.

Edit- After pondering at my desk long enough it finally hit me, and it's something I had to do myself lol. The signals are inverted...but it's still a simple fix.

[Galanttuner10]

ah so mko was right when he said to change the injector pins as the 95-96 CAS signal is inverted???

[mko]

From Magnus MOtorsport Tutorial

On a 95-96 car with stock 2G head
· Swap Plugs 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 (order is not important)
On a 97+ car with stock 2G head
· No plug swap or injector swap is necessary

Anatomy of a Cam Angle Sensor
There are three types of cam angle sensor that are known to work. The early years (89-92) have a metal green/gray cover, use a flat rotating disk with slots, and an optical sensor. The later year sensor (93-94) has a black plastic cover, uses curved metal plates that rotate through a hall-effect sensor. The hall effect sensor is physically similar to the technology used in the 95-96 cam and crank sensors. Theoretically the hall effect.

1. Make a wiring harness.
Due to the inverted Cam signal, injector trigger wires will need to be switch on 95-96 year ECU cars with this wiring diagram in order to bring the signals back into phase. The difference is subtle, but the motor will start easier, provide smoother idle, and have less hesitations during mild acceleration. sensor is higher resolution. They all work.

Injector wiring

Green: Pin 1 is now 14
Green w/ yellow stripe: Pin 2, is now Pin 1
Green w/ red stripe: Pin 15, is now Pin 2
Yellow w/ black stripe: Pin 14 is now Pin 15

Coil PAck wiring

The spark coil signal is inverted. Looking at the coils, label each wire A,B,C,D. Change the spark plug wire
locations: A is now C, B is now D, C is now A and D is now B. Another way to do this is to change the triggerwires to the coil, (3 wire triangle plug, next to the igniter). Switch the two blue wires. One is blue with red stripe, the other is blue with black stripe. The third wire that remains unchanged is black with white stripe.

[Galanttuner10]

this is good info as well mko, now this will be basically a 97-99 eclipse with a 95 head and cams so i need the 95-96 CAS i know that so far.. now mine is a 96 galant so im wordering how the harness is in comparison.. idk maybe im confusing myself

[mko]

As I told you - all 2g Eclipses are OBD2 even the early 95s. so the ECUs are four plug ECUs just like 96 Galant. So, print the ECU pinouts and print the pin listings for 2g and Galant, put them side by side and start comparing. It will be very easy to see what wires have to swapped and what wires have to be added. Just to let you know - the 2g pinouts will have the fuel pressure regulator solenoid and wastegate solenoid. You dont need to add wires for them, but it will throw a code.

Thats why I will be sticking with 95 Mirage distributor, just have to take it to a machine shop

[Galanttuner10]

i really dont want to throw a code as i have emissions testing here in CT.. i can still wire them up though correct?

[mko]

you could, or just find a spyder or mirage ECU that dont have any of these

[Galanttuner10]

you could, or just find a spyder or mirage ECU that dont have any of these

i could but i think the turbo ecu is a better choice as im going turbo soon after the headswap

[bmore303]

Yeah if you want an already made no bs tune then get the turbo ecu and drop in the 450s. Just can't turn up the boost >_< . Either way you'll have an SAFC/MAFT to fix any fueling issues you need.

[Galanttuner10]

bmore.. that was my thaught.. drop in the new head, ecu injectors and the safc all at the same time and tune it from there and pull fuel where needed then boost..

or maybe everything will fall into place and i can do it all at the same time

[eclipsh]

You could just pick up a cheap 14b and 2g manifold. That should only set you back about $150. Then you'd just need an exhaust. Otherwise you could find an E316g with the adjustable wastegate so you can turn the boost down below 10psi. They'd all be easy to sell if you wanted to upgrade after you get forged internals.

If it were me I'd wait an extra month or two and just do it all at once. Save yourself some headache and time.

[Galanttuner10]

You could just pick up a cheap 14b and 2g manifold. That should only set you back about $150. Then you'd just need an exhaust. Otherwise you could find an E316g with the adjustable wastegate so you can turn the boost down below 10psi. They'd all be easy to sell if you wanted to upgrade after you get forged internals.

If it were me I'd wait an extra month or two and just do it all at once. Save yourself some headache and time.

i have everything to turbo it except ther intercooler piping and exhaust, its just its my dd right now and i have to have everything working and want to make sure everything is perfect before i turbo it. That is why i want to add everything but the turbo then make sure all that is good then keep it running like that for a while then boost it.

[eclipsh]

If you're running the turbo ECU, 2g airflow sensor, 450 injectors and other sensors off a 2g then the tuning shouldn't be a problem even without the turbo in place. You'll be metering the correct amount of air and the ECU already expects the 450cc injectors to be there so it will add fuel accordingly. You'll need a little work because of the different displacement and compression but my guess is that is about it. A basic SAFC should be able to handle that easily, especially if you have a wideband to meter with. I'm sure it has been covered on this site, or DSM Tuners, but might need to mess with timing advance too since the higher base compression will likely confuse the turbo ECU. If the ECU you have is EPROM I'm sure you could get a chip that'd get it running smooth right off the bat.

That said, if you are planning on doing the DOHC swap and turbo ECU at the same time the turbo won't add any real complications other than the exhaust and intercooler pipes you mentioned. All it will do is push some air into a system that will already be prepared for it. Either way though, have fun :)