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Thread: Silencer II alarm problem on 7G

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  1. #1

    Silencer II alarm problem on 7G

    I have replaced the actual remote a few times and since they do not make my version anymore (silencer II), I have to order a used remote and reprogram it, but after a few months of use, the remote dies, and the remote's battery is not the culprit. Now, when the remote DOES work, the door locks no longer lock with the remote like when I bought the car.

    Long story short, I so want to sell the car soon, many minor problems like the horn does not work and also the alarm thing. But now when I sell, I may trade it in, and who wants a car with an alarm that does not work? It has a fail safe that when the battery is dissconnected, the alarm goes off the second the battery is hooked up, I just want to gut the thing, along with my amp power wire, now the amplifier wire is obvious, the wire powering the alarm is not, there are a few wires coming off the battery and I do not know what a few are too. Should I just use the process of elimination and take em off one by one and when reattached see which one starts the alarm? Then basically follow that wire and gut as needed?

    I already gutted the foglights by Hella, the installer did not tighten the wires down, they came loose and snagged on a parking lot cement barrier and not only snapping some bumper mounting points, also tore the wire.

    The car is a electrical mess.

    Lastly, I found a nice 06 Lancer OZ edition that I want desperately, a lot lighter than the galant, and 14 more hp stock. Any suggestions? I want to stay 4cyl and 4 door and the one I found is gorgeous. I'm serously debating a Mazda 6i or even another Accord EX. The Galant is wonderful, but mine is at the end of the road. :( Oh, i'd get another Galant, but I can't afford the one I want, 07 GTS or the 08 Ralliart.

  2. #2
    If you're going to trade the car in, I wouldn't even bother with the alarm. Dealer ain't going to give you any more for the car having it or not.
    MECP First Class Certi-fried installer.

    For the right price, nothing is impossible.

  3. #3
    Dealers here suck, they want stock and nothing but. They most likely will offer less for my trade if they have to do work on it to re-sell it. Who wants a car that when the battery dies they can't shut off the alarm because the remotes do not work? I just want to make this as painless for myself in the future when I actually start looking for a new(er) car.

    edit: I've delt with the janky dealers that take anything you throw at them, in that case it would be true, but my next car is coming from a reputable dealer, I, for one, wouldn't like the fact that there is a amplifier power wire running to the trunk but no amp, or the fact that there is a perfectly fine alarm system in place (besides the door locks do not work in conjunction) but I can't use it without buying an extra part (new remote).

  4. #4
    sounds like you just want a new car.

    any older car will have minor problems, the key it to properly maintain a car (extra care for galants and mitsubishi's) once shite doesn't get fixed, it all goes down hill.

    and lancers are ok, mazdas the same thing.

    to bad i can own them.

    just get a car that is good and you can afford.

    "DSM's, making people mechanics since 1985"
    Quote Originally Posted by polishmafia
    You want real respect from those fools? Don't race him. Tell him racing is a sport left to young boys who are still waiting for their balls to drop. Then while he's out racing, fuck his girlfriend in the ass, take pics, and leave them on his car while hes at school.

  5. #5
    Well, a newer car, not a new car. I can keep up with mechanical maintenence, the car is mechanically sound and runs just as good as it did when I first got it. Electrical is expensive to fix, and if I ever move to a state that does inspections, the horn will be an automatic fail. But I'm looking for something reliable, and a little nicer and newer that my Galant.

  6. #6
    it's hard to have problems when you get base model with manual locks and windows :twisted:


    i did all the conversions myself 8)

    "DSM's, making people mechanics since 1985"
    Quote Originally Posted by polishmafia
    You want real respect from those fools? Don't race him. Tell him racing is a sport left to young boys who are still waiting for their balls to drop. Then while he's out racing, fuck his girlfriend in the ass, take pics, and leave them on his car while hes at school.

  7. #7
    Just a rant to add to the thread, lol:

    I snipped the alarm lead to the battery, I'm also yanking the power lead to the non-existent amp I had in the trunk to power my JL's. I'm truely considering keeping the G, I have it just how I want it (as far as looks and power), only if it could be, ya know, not falling apart... here's a few things on my too do list that might be expensive:

    Timing belt
    All other belts
    New front bumper, primed, painted and mounted(mine's cracked and barely hanging on)
    Fix the horn
    Fix the power locks
    New power window panel driver's side (I can't roll down the front pass window with it anymore)
    New faux wood panel that goes around the shifter
    New brakes (again) this time I'll do it with name brand rotors
    Rattles in the trunk area and 6x9s
    New tires (Iowa and bald tires do not equal fun)
    Exhaust, header back (I'm suspecting a leak somewhere)
    Not to mention some aftermarket stuff I want, a new set of NGK plug wires, some nice non-crappy wheels, Apexi WSII muffler to go with the exhaust, etc...
    Phew, that's a lot of stuff, gives me a headache just thinking about it all.

  8. #8
    rossralliart
    Guest

    Icon8 horn does not work

    whats up guys ? the problem with my horn is that when they install my jdm bumper ,the horn just sounded once and puff dead . what could it be ?

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