There goes my turbo.

[DJ Galant]

Well, car was doing fine for almost 2 weeks. Yestrday they put my 2.5 " exhaust, then later on the freeway, the engine service soon light came on, and trhe car started to shake like a mo-fo (was going about 80).
So I took it to the shop, and Tony said those are spark-plugs. So I went to the checkers, got NGK , spark plug set and came back to the shop.

FUCK!!!
He pooled up my old bosch platinum 4, and one of the spark plug had some aluminum on it, and obviously this is one of my valves melted....
We also check the compression, and one of the cylinders is way high ( like 26( i think).
Now, gotta wait till he finish other car, and then take a head of, take it to the machine shop, and put it back.

.................................................
The car shakes like a mo-fo, when idling, there is no boost when i am acclerating and can't go faster than 60 either........................

Why am i unlucky like that??????????????????????
I was happy with muyt turbo for 2 weeks, and now gotta wait and pill up some $$$$$$$$$$ to get my car fixed.................

Any suggestions, comments, help?????????????????????? :cry: :cry:

[RedGalant2k1]

How much boost were you puching again? 7psi? 8psi? Did you run colder plugs? Do you have a AFC? Did you do anything to lower compression?

Save money for at least forged pistons and rods, if possible. Contact AK1 he has JE Forged Pistons and Crower Forged Rods (I think?).

[Black2k1GTZ]

The first month or so that you have a Turbo in your car you really shouldnt gun the car at all...youve got to give it time to break in. But that sucks about the plugs...like Red said...definatly go with those colder wires...and an AFC will for sure help!!!!!!! Good luck though...

Marc :twisted:

[Mgalant99]

That really sucks, I'm sorry to hear that it happened. Hope everything works out fine.

[DJ Galant]

right now, i changed the plugs to ngk copper.
Well i guess, i didn;t know that it is crucial to change them.
I guess i will contact ak1 about that issue.I was only boosting 4psi.
Don't have AFC.

[VegasMatt]

I'll sell you an Apexi AFC for 328.00 + Shipping (From Orlando). I have 10 available. PM me if you are interested.

Matt

[Tiller]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DJ Galant)</div><div class='quotemain'>right now, i changed the plugs to ngk copper.
Well i guess, i didn;t know that it is crucial to change them.
I guess i will contact ak1 about that issue.I was only boosting 4psi.
Don't have AFC.</div>

at 4psi, something had to be WAY OFF, to melt a piston like that...! I'd look at whoever did the install... <span style='color:red'>because your fuel was totally fucked up somewhere... </span>
didn't you hear it detonating...? I mean to melt a piston, that bitch had to be knockin like a virgin on prom night...

[VegasMatt]

That what I was thinking, if you had the AFC you could have fixed this problem.
I just got my AFC today for when I do my headers install.

[DJ Galant]

what do y guys think about it???
Was it because of bad spark plugs (bosch platinum v4 ) or was it the fuel issue.???
I need help.
I really didn't hear anything detonating, all it was was a service engine soon Came on and a car lost the power, and startrtd to shake ( a little bit), when pressing gas it shakes.

I thought it was an air leak somewhere, so i checked for it and couldn't find it.
WHen i went back to the shop, and pop the hood, Tony said those are sparg plugs, and indeed he was right.
We changed them, and car was going the same, so we checked compression ( 3 of them where like on 9.5 and one on 26!!!).

Now, what the hell happened to my car and how to fix it???????//

[RedGalant2k1]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DJ Galant)</div><div class='quotemain'>what do y guys think about it???
Was it because of bad spark plugs (bosch platinum v4 ) or was it the fuel issue.???
I need help.
I really didn't hear anything detonating, all it was was a service engine soon Came on and a car lost the power, and startrtd to shake ( a little bit), when pressing gas it shakes.

I thought it was an air leak somewhere, so i checked for it and couldn't find it.
WHen i went back to the shop, and pop the hood, Tony said those are sparg plugs, and indeed he was right.
We changed them, and car was going the same, so we checked compression ( 3 of them where like on 9.5 and one on 26!!!).

Now, what the hell happened to my car and how to fix it???????//</div>

Get a AFC your fuel ratio musta been way outta wack like Tiller said. Do whatever you can to get a AFC, see it VegasMatt help you out he has 10 to sell. If the shop has no idea of why it happened find a new place to get the turbo fixed, and installed with a AFC properly. I don't know what it would be, hopefully Craig or manybrews sees this post and can help out.

[burthold]

fuel fuel fuel. Your computer doesn't know what to do with 4psi. It ran it very lean and very hot. You cannot run boost on a N/A car without some type of fuel management system. Can a mod make this sticky and let others read it? Would you write up your turbo story from beginning to end? I think it would be a valuable write up for other members. I am sorry its costing you more cash to get it all fixed. Help others learn.

Wes

[RedGalant2k1]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(burthold)</div><div class='quotemain'>Can a mod make this sticky and let others read it? Â*
Wes</div>

Done.

[DJ Galant]

ok, i will write the whole story,....just give me a day and i will psot it................................................ .................................................. ........................................ :cry:

Do u guys think if i fix my car this will happen again?????????????
What if i have cold plugs, my car will be fixed and i will get my sfac???????????
Will this shit happen again?????????

[AK1]

First of all, I'm sorry to hear that DJ Galant.

Now how should I put this...
Maybe I should begin by saying that to have your valves melt, if indeed that did happen, takes some really really bad tuning work if you're only running at 4psi boost. Unless you changed your compression, have a lemon motor to begin with or you drive you car like a madman and boost non-stop, on a fuel system with an upgraded pump and BOOST SENSITIVE FPR(like you said you have) there is no way you would get into this situation.

We have run 4psi on a 16G with stock injectors on a 4G64, no AFC, but just a fuel pump and fpr and have had no problems. We just couldn't get the most efficient HP numbers out of that setup but it never ran very lean. I don't know exactly how your turbo system is setup at all so I can't really tell you what they did wrong but apparently you were running very lean, I'm sure you know that much.

First thing I personally would do, is make sure your shop PAYS for this damage because they are responsible for this UNLESS they told you that you are doing it at your own risk. At the Horsepower House, we have a contract that says under normal circumstances after we datalog everything, if your motor does not last a certain mileage/years(ex. 30,000/2yrs) we will replace or repair it FOC.

Second thing I would do to be safe is get an AFC, get bigger injectors, get colder plugs, get an A/F gauge, an EGT gauge, and please, get somebody who knows how to tune a car.

You DO NOT need a rebuilt bottom end UNLESS you are going with more than 8psi boost or you are pushing 300hp or more under normal circumstances. If you have to resort to going with a built up bottom end to have your car withstand 4psi boost than something is seriously wrong. I repeat, if tuned right, there would be no problem holding boost with the 4g64 bottom end. I'm not saying it will last forever, but it definitely won't break in 2 weeks. When you start pushing high HP and running 8psi boost and so on, then get engine work done if not then you'll most likely bend/break a rod or shoot a rod thru the block, fry your rings, melt your pistons and so forth.

On a side note, did u ever have your stock injectors spray tested and did you ever have problems before ? Plug problems ? And what psi is your FPR pushing under boost conditions ? Could be a simple problem if your FPR is working the same under idle and boost. I sent you a private msg with information to contact us if you want to speak with somebody for more help and hopefully we can help you over the phone. It's very hard not knowing how your turbo was setup and not being able to see the numbers. Was it tuned on a dyno and data logged before you rolled it out? Just curious. I didn't on my first setup, but it's recommended that you do to prevent problems like this, or at least to prevent you from having to incur the costs to fix it. Truly, I'm sorry. :cry:

[DJ Galant]

Here it is.
Somebody wanted a whole story, well here it is.
This is the same lette I send to JR.
I have a 1999 Mitsubishi Galant Es 2.4 Liter (SOHC), automatic. Right now the car has about 40000 miles on it. I have always had taken care of my car.
I always wanted “more power� to make my car go faster, have more torque, etc. so I decided I will put a
Turbo set-up, because I hear that is the best and the safest way to go.

Recently I have put a turbo on the car.
My turbo set-up included.
• 16g TDO5 turbo,
• 2nd. Gen Mitsubishi Eclipse manifold
• Spearco front mount intercooler,
• Turbonetics delta mark II external wastgate,
• fuel regulator,
• Warlbro fuel pump,
• Auto-meter boost gauge,
• 2.5" exhaust,
• Apex'i twin blow off valve,
• Obx-r 4" air filter, with adapter for Mitsubishi
• Gready turbo Timer
• Automatic transmission cooler
• All the oil lanes, clamps, and other stuff

It wasn’t any of the bolt on kit, but rather it was custom.
The installation took 5 days, it was done in professional shop, and car was doing fine for about a week, since we put it on. It had plenty of power, quick acceleration, lost of more torque, and overall the car improved a lot.
For about a week, I didn't have my exhaust on (there was no down pipe on, nor any piping) - I know it is illegal, but we ha to do it because of no time available. My external wastagate had a 4 psi spring in it, and that is what I was boosting. There was plenty of power at 4psi.
Then finally, one day I had my 2.5� exhaust done – all the piping, down pipe is 2.5�, but I am running stock catalytic converter. The same night I was driving, on the freeway at about 80 mph, and the “engine service soon� light came on, and the car started to shake. The temperature gauge was normal.
Car has no boost, no power when accelerating, and shakes when I stop on the red light when it is on D (drive), but when I switch it to neutral, it shakes (vibrates) less.
I thought it was an air leak somewhere, so when I got home (I was driving slowly) I checked all the clams if they were tight and screwed properly. I couldn’t locate a possible air leak, so I decided to take back the car to the shop.
Next thing I did, the following morning, was that I took back my car to the performance shop, where I had my turbo installed.
The installer said it was bad spark pugs, and he told me to get a NGK copper sparks.
So I got a new set (got a set of NGK v-power spark plug), and later when the car cooled down, he started to check the old spark plugs.
One of them looked terrible bad (it was set of Bosch Platinum +4). It looked like the spark plug had aluminum on it, and the plug looked melted. When we replaced the pugs for NGK, I was hoping the car is going top be back to normal, but I was mistaken.
Installer said that that Bosch Platinum +4 spark plug had done some bad job for the motor.
Possibly my valves are melted, and who knows what else happened.
Next week, we are planning to take a head of, and then take it to the machine shop and fix it, then put it back on.

Now, I am little concerned about my situation.
My main question is what happen to the car, and why??
Was it my fault or the installer (when somebody installs a turbo kit on the car, shouldn’t they make sure I have the right spark plugs?).
Main biggest concern is now, if I get it fix, will this happen again?????
How can I prevent that from happening????????
Another question is, what is going to happen if let’s say motor is fixed and then I install Apex’i Super Air Fuel Controller can I boost it up to 7psi????
Will I be running more problems with my turbo set- up, or it will be fine????????
Will installing of forged pistons/rods help????????????
I don’t really have more money to put in to it, so I am really worried.
Please, anyone who is reading that and can answer my questions, contact me at:
[email protected]
Or send a private message.
Thanks for your help.


AK1:
As far as I am concerned I have never had my stock injectors spray tested and I didn't have problems before at all. I didn't hae problems with my injectors, either. Also, i don't know what psi is my FPR pushing under boost conditions. (How to check that?) What do you mean by "simple problem if your FPR is working the same under idle and boost."???- How to check that???
Thanks Ak1 for your input, I really appreciate that.

[AK1]

If your FPR is not referencing boost and increasing pressure say on a 1:1 ratio under boost conditions then you're just going to be running lean with all that air and not matching fuel quantity.

I'm surprised they didn't install an Air/Fuel gauge or an exhaust gas temp gauge. The first thing I would do is get one and clearly if you're not anywhere near 14.3-14.7 a/f then don't even attempt to boost because you're obviously hurting the motor. A simple A/F bar gauge will work to give you an estimation of whether you are running lean or rich not only IN BOOST but at idle. Also, an EGT will help alot as a secondary warning device besides just signalling you to stop boosting when exhaust temp gets way high. If you notice exhaust gas temp really high past the 9000 range most of the time, then you're running a very hot system and most likely, it's not tuned right. Get your oil and your fuel dialed in with all that air. Every single aspect is important when you go with forced induction so take all the neccessary precautions by installing those gauges to prevent yourself from detonation, turbo bearing failure, etc. I know it's alot of money, but sometimes putting in more money now, saves you alot more money in the future.

Oh, and you were asking about measuring fuel pressure output on your FPR in boost. Most shops should have fuel injection pressure gauges that will work with your FPR where you can make sure the FPR is not crapping out on you esp. in boost. It would greatly help if you had a dyno. Even just rollers. You emailed JR ? Even though he can't see your turbo setup and what really happened internally, I think he should be able to give you the next best course of action. Gluck bro.

[DJ Galant]

thank You again, ak1.
I will take it to some other performance shop to get it checked.
Also, have another question:
Does the SFAC works in the same way as air/fuel gauge ( i mean, i know it manage that, but does the safc shows what actual air/fuel gauge does?)
Yes, I have e-mailed JR.

[AK1]

No, the S-AFC will not function as an A/F gauge. It will only show you your Karman reading, RPM, Throttle, and Correction. The good thing about it though, is that you can display all at the same time. But no, sorry it won't show you your A/F ratio readout.

[Anonymous]

dj, you need the FPR, to raise the fuel pressure, you should also get new injectors, your problem is obviously fuel delivery, thats why i went with the Greddy Emanagement Fuel Managment Unit, you can increase the flow of injectors but i have 550cc injectors too though, with the greddy system you can adjust the injectors to flow whatever you want so i dont have to go full 550 injectors but if i boost high i can, i was gunna have it all done this week but i broke the air rods and had to pay to get that fixed, that set me back a ways...but yah, you need to handle the fuel, get some new injectors, stock eclipse gst injectors will help...and thats a cheaper way to go, you can get them used and just get them cleaned out...also, what are you doing to retard your timing, the greddy system will do that to, you gotta adjust your timing, do you really trust this guy? i mean i know hes a friend but he didnt set you up too safely, if you have any more questions ask away

[DJ Galant]

will the stock eclipse gst injectors fit our 4g64?????
Now, does the Greddy Emanagement Fuel Managment Unit works like sfac????????
How much is that unit ?????
What size of injectors do eclipses gst have anyway? 300 cc?
Also, do injectors have taken from auto gst or the one with manual
will do fine????
I didn't do anything with the timing, to be honest it is the first time that I hear about that?