Turbo Gurus....Need an Advice

[mko]

Well it came to its natural conclusion..... after installing pretty much all supporting mods as coilovers, brakes, sway bars and all other stuff......it was time to do it....finally:

As of now:

450cc blue tops with resistor pack; small 16g with 7cm Bullseye hotside, Evo3 manifold and Evo3 O2 housing; DSM blow off valve; MAFT+SAFC; silicone couplers with t-bolt clamps; MBC with quick bleed valve.






Now the problem:

I set the maft for about 50% down /lean it out/ as the car was w/o the turbo hooked up - it idles and it runs really good.

When I hooked up the pipes, AFR went down to 10s IDK why, the RPMs would go up and down, it was a complete mess. I also noticed the the BOV is constantly open IDK why as well. Its vac line goes to the vac manifold, so is the boost gauge. It really makes me wonder. I might have over looked something, I will go over everything tomorrow.



It was getting really late tonite and I was also tired, so I called the day, blocked off the vac line to the BOV, disconnected the IC pipe right after the intercooler and went home with a N/A car. I suck



I most likely have some boost leaks, but Im really hoping that I dont.

I can hear the turbo spool up, and I followed the instructions for the MBC. Its probably set to very low pressure. Should I bypass the MBC and hook up the wastegate straight to the J-pipe?

Ive been working from about 12pm till about 11pm and it wouldnt be done if it wasnt my friend Skrap helping me. I ran into some issues, but It all went down pretty smooth.

Id appreciate your answers about the opened BOV and the super rich AFRs.

[seth98esT]

Fix the issues we talked about on AIM and you should be golden. Get some fuel tuning in and start enjoying your new addiction!!!

[mko]

So........................

Im did a dumb mistake, cuz I rushed into finishing it.

I needz to reverse the order of MAFT and BOV.......and I was pretty sure I had it right... /stupid/


Thanks to Seth for finding my mistake

[DOHCstunr]

Yeah lol I was about to point that out.

Also, the 1g bov is normally slightly open. allowing air to come in through the bov when the engine is still under negative pressure, allows the intake track to bypass all the restricion of a tiny turbo passage and intercooler restriction.

Once the turbo begins to boost and actually move some serious air, the bov seals(well its supposed to seal lol)


BTW idk what manifold to head studs/nuts/washers you are using.
But if you are using ANYTHING other then OEM studs, oem copper locknuts, and oem washers, you are going to deal with broken studs, nuts backing off, and blown gaskets.
Order a brand new set, they are pretty inexpensive and will save you a ton of headache.

Same goes for the turbo bolts. Use ONLY OEM mitsu bolts and 2(yes two) OEM spring washers per bolt.

Its always a good idea to chase the threads of your turbine housing with a tap, and run a die over your turbo bolts. this will prevent anything from jambing your bolts in place and seizing them. This is a very common happeneing and will cause you nothing but headaches and trips to the machine shop.

You have to consider the extreme temperature ranges involving turbocharged exhaust. Metal will expand and contract a hundred times before you reach your destination across town. Its critical that only metals designed and treated for these conditions be used. and it is critical that you torque everything in the exhaust system to spec, and use quality gaskets.

Otherwise you will be on an endless battle with power robbing exhaust leaks.


I put a huge emphasis on this because I have fought this battle myself. over and over until I got here.
Stainless steel is probaly the WORST fastener you can use in yoru exhaust. Don't be sold on it. It ONLY looks pretty, and several performance website will lead you to believe that its superior to OEM mitsu. I highly doubt mitsu would pay more to put copper nuts on their bolts if stainless steel was cheaper and better.
My stainless steel studs lasted 2 weeks lmao.

[mko]

Right, well all studs are OEM original studs that were on the engine. The nuts and washers were installed by an exhaust shop back in the day when they installed the header and the rest of the system. And I have two bolts that are for the heat shield and I bought them from Sears Hardware. All nuts and bolts on the turbo and housings are brand new OEM bought from the dealer. The gaskets are all aluminum - manifold to turbo and turbo to O2 housing. Manifold gasket is OEM from the dealer. Only the DP gasket is aftermarket and it came with the exhaust, but I didnt get to use it back then. I have applied antiseize to each bolt and will do what you suggested about chasing the threads with tap when it comes off for maintenance. Thanks for the advice!

[phizzalot]

Good Work MKO :)... looks like your set, did you hook up the water lines for the turbo? how much boost are you at?

[kolio]

good stuff chris! if you need some help one day call me.

[Ruslik]

looks nice man
you going to run recirculating kit?

[seth98esT]

He doesnt have to with the GM MAF... as long as he moves the GM MAF before the BOV.

[mko]

OK, its on. Got the lil stuff all fixed and its working now. I still have to figure shit out with the AFR at idle. I started with less than 1psi and now its running at 4 psi at full boost. Ill play with it some more these days. The AFRs go down to mid 11s at full boost, cruise is at 14.5-15, idle at 17.5. Its fully spooled at 3500 rpms

[skrap]

ugh! i cant wait until i get mine boosted.. For any of you other 7th G's out there if you think that it wont be that big of a difference.. YOU ARE SOO WRONG!!! he was running at 1psi and you could feel a huge difference... I suggest everyone try and do this.. Its also not as hard as it seems to do.. I have been with MKO every step of the way and its extreamly easy!!!!!

[Shadow19]

Im next in line for this one... 16g turbo, 2g mani, walbro 190 lph, Maf Translator Pro, 3'' exhaust, 560 CC injectors (from evo8 still not sure if these will be too big or not)... I shall feel the wrath of a turbo as well! Good job MKO.. Im proud of u man.

[DOHCstunr]

Original studs eh? They are only good for so many heat cycles before they will snap from fatigue. Even OEM quality. I have a broken one at the moment and its not even a year old. Waiting till the next time i have the manifold off to replace it because at the moment its still sealing the Mitsu ralliart 4 layer gasket.

I'd still try to source new stock studs, and at the least new mitsu copper nuts and washers.

[Galanttuner10]

Im next in line for this one... 16g turbo, 2g mani, walbro 190 lph, Maf Translator Pro, 3'' exhaust, 560 CC injectors (from evo8 still not sure if these will be too big or not)... I shall feel the wrath of a turbo as well! Good job MKO.. Im proud of u man.

those injectors will be fine and will allow you to run more boost comfortably later on.. im going to soon follow after you as mine is going on in march as thats when everything will be in order again and i will have time

[mko]

Ive seen them on SBR for like 40 bucks. Ill get them soon.

[mko]

[phizzalot]

And you guys were talking about my wiring :) ... MKO rewire those wires going over your intake manifold. It can get hot enough to melt the wires and short em out..

[mko]

I need to get some of this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Until then they will stay right there on top of the manifold.

[DOHCstunr]

I just trace the new wires along the existing conduit, then i wrap the whole conduit(new wires and all) with new electrical tape to seal the new wires into the old counduit and viola!
looks 100% stock

[mko]

What is up with the PCV valves. Bought 3 of them today - they all have back leak. Im thinking of getiing a check valve and putting it between the PCV and the Manifold

I found one more leak today. It leaks from the oil pan right on the DP and it smells like shit.