Mine were rusted as well. I called a friend over and had him use a 1/2" breaker bar on the bolt while I held the nut on the other side from spinning with a 24?mm wrench and that solved it.
so on saturday, i tried to install my d2 coilovers and i had some problems getting the 24 mm bolts loose from the stock assembly. i used wd-40 and a breaker bar, but the best i could do is break the seal. the bolts are pretty rusty, and i just couldnt get em loose. any ideas on what i could do to get them loose and install my coilovers?
Mine were rusted as well. I called a friend over and had him use a 1/2" breaker bar on the bolt while I held the nut on the other side from spinning with a 24?mm wrench and that solved it.
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yeah i guess that will work, the hard part is breaking the seal i think. did you buy new bolts for the coilover instead of using the rusted ones?
har har har. i had a hard time too. you just need time and alot of friends. take turns prying at it.
yeah man! we were able to break the seal by each getting both our hands on the breaker bar and pulling at the same time, but then we gave up because it was getting late and we had made like no progress
if you have a friend with an impact gun, it helps with breaking the "seal". but ya, you will need two 24mm sockets. one on each side to keep the other side from spinning
ok cool, i am going to give this another whirl when i have some time on my hands.
I used a 24mm socket on the nut side and an adjustable wrench on the other, and this worked fine. I wouldn't recommend it though as you might strip the bolt head. If you have two 24mm sockets available, that would be 10x better
alright sweet, i am pumped to give this another try
Pics pics pics buddy. Good luck.
am i like the only man on this board that didn't need a butt buddy to loosen up some nuts?
1/2" drive, 18 inch breaker bar with a 4ft pipe slipped over the end.
or you can have it so that the breaker bar is angled, touching the ground and then lower the car slowly to use the weight of the car to loosen the bolt. you gotta do it slowly and make sure the socket doesn't slip off. maybe use a block of wood under the breaker bar so you don't have to lower the car so much.
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I was wondering when someone would explain how a "lever" worked....lol cheater bars are the best
Breaker bar with something on the end to make it longer, if you can get a friend to hold it in place as you dont want to strip it. It protect the car wrap what you put over the bar in a regular cotton towel and duct tape. Worked well for me.
I never use air tools to break. Might be a personal preference, but I only use them to take off and tighten never break.
Last edited by 03-Galant-ES; 10-28-2009 at 12:29 AM
I used a impact wrench, hand tools are for pussies.
1000lb/ft of torque > you
You are gonna think I am crazy but I used a breaker bar and a bottle jack. It was easy, effortless, and I had no problem.
Removing those two front struts is no joke at all. Especially when your car has high mileage and sees salted roads in the winter. Those 24mm bolts are torqued to about 240lbs/ft of pressure from the factory. When I installed my coilovers my car had about 150k. At the time, I was weight training about 2-3 days a week, and I was bench pressing 385lbs. I weigh 240lbs, and I STILL COULDNT get the damn bolts off. My younger brother is 6'3 320lbs. And HE STILL COULDNT get them off. I called my friend and had him bring his electric impact gun. We got the driver side strut off, and the first bolt on the passenger side. When we went to get the second bolt off, the impact gun started shooting blue sparks and then shit the bed. lol. That job was no joke.
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