Ok just so you know for the future, always have a propain torch handy. When it comes to rusted bolts PB Blaster and fire always works. I am fortunate to have a friend that brings me penetrating oil from MTA. It is used on train track bolts, and works everytime.Originally Posted by bsilver23
your car wont fall apart with no front endlinks. You'll just notice that the car isnt as "tight" in the turns. If your endlink is still dangling on the front sway bar, make sure its ziptied down and not bouncing around. It can get caught up in your spokes or wheel well and make some ugly scratch marks.
what would happen if the endlinks are removed from the sway bar completely and the sway bar is just sitting there?
nothing, but it might rattle
it looks like without the end links, the sway bar would just be laying there. is the sway bar attached to something other than the end links?
Well of course there are bushings holding it. I mean it's not just floating there lol
i got those mevotech, i think is what they are called, end links and i was wondering if they make more noise than usual because there is a noise on the front end and i am not sure what it is but it might be them. it is a clunk-clunk-clunk sound when i take sharp turns.
^That could be a whole bunch of things. Axles, differential, suspension,...
Hell i had 130,000 on mine and had to take a cutting wheel on the rears to get the struts out....
Chip
2000 Basalt Black Metallic GTZ
(Paint Code: Porsche LC9Z)
Genuine experience carries a lot more credibility than the ability to answer a question.
My car must've been super clean.. Cuz my rears came out in less than twenty minutes as soon as I figured out how the lower bolt came off. And I put my coilovers on with 130k on the odo.
Jigz-TGCIL Sosick Motorsports
R.I.P. Christopher "CRAZY CHRIS" Beckmann
"you dont appreciate friendship until you lose your bestfriend...."
I'd rather have the knowledge and ability to do it than the money to buy it already done.
the rears were extremely easy
When I didi my wife's car I used 2 sockets both w/ pipes attached to the handles rested one on the ground and a 4 foot pipe on the other for leverage it also helps if you soak the shit out of it w/ like pb blaster and let it sit first wd40 just displaces water pb blaster actually eats through the rust helping with the removal. also have a glass jar or something handy once there off soak the bolts in the jar w/ the pb and then apply never seize when you put it back together I did all her front suspension alone and I weight 130 pounds its not that hard if you use leverage.
I do believe he has already solved this problem and finished the job last month. Good advice though leverage rocks just make sure that the sockets are on tight you do not want it to slip and shred the bolt or nut. This is how I was doing it on Denvers car when we were doing the 5spd swap and we had only hand tools. I also did this on my car with an angled bar behind the assembly and a straight bar on front.
Air tools are your friends.
ha thanks guys, but it was able to finish the job about a month ago
or worse mess up your speed sensors those a a bitch to change lol
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2000 Mitsubishi Galant ES
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