I think my power steering orwater pump bearings is bad . cant tell which one,how does this happen.
how hard is it for a novice to take apart a intake manifold I have a chilton book.is it really hardand what complications will I come into. Do I have take fuelrailoff. I dont want to mess with it if its really dificult.I have gasket Id like to replace lloking for vaccumleak.
if your hands are small youll be able to reach the middle bots. Its easy to get it out, but its hard to bolt the middle bolt down. also there are 2 bolts that hold the mani to the block thru a bracket. you need to go under the car and undo them or you really have to have flexible hands to reach behind the AC compressor.
best tool to use is 12mm ratchet wrench
taking the fuel rail for more clearance, but Ive done it w/o taking it off
be careful of leavin any left over pieces of gasket stuck to the head and the manifold
Ok I might hold off on that for the moment. As for as a my water pum and power steering Im hearing a groaning noise on both when I put a screw driver on them . My water pump is not leaking from the weep hole,but is it possibl;e the bearings are bad in them,or power steering pump bearings bad or both. I think thats why my alternator keeps failing every so many months.
Those are a BIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIITCH to get to.Originally Posted by mko
I dont have small hands by any means, but was able to get to them fairly easy. Given, they are a lil' of a bitch, but it helps if you have a somewhat idea of what your doing on the bottom bolts as you wont have much for sight when undoing them. When your scraping the leftover gasket off of the intake and the head, be carefull to not ding up the mating surface as a small ding can lead to a good size vacume leak.
1994 Galant S. 90 Percent GS.
About how long does it take to remove and finish? Should I attempt I have about medium size hands,lol. I know how shit is whenit come to that. I just did the valve cover gasket ,exhaust man,about to do the egr and throttle body gasket,replaced the pcv valve also. we will see if that 170 works. I purchased a vaccum tester but I DONT KNOW THe vaccum specs(amount of vaccum. I did it on every thing and the vaccum was about 25 steady. how much is the fuel pressure regulator and wher can I get a new one for maybe around 50 bucks or less. No auto part stores have them in my area. Do they tend to go bad after say 200000 miles. I love the G but its taking a toll on me cash wise. But I must say I do enjoy this forum the help and working on the Galant.
Im attempting to replace water pump scared to mees with timiming belt any suggestions. cant afffoird to pay someone and i know its water pump bearings are bad killing my alternator several times and maybe my p/s bad too. need help i have book.
water pump is right there. You shouldn't have to touch anything timing things to remove water pump. It is right there 5 bolts and it is out. But be careful not to drop any water on the alternator. Because the front water pipe and water pump connection is right on top of the alternator. So I advise taking the alternator out or cover it with something so don't damage it. Check out my site for new oem water pump.
http://www.gasketer.ecrater.com/
get you OEM parts with low price
the book said i had to take the motor mount out on the right side lower the engine with jack under it remove harmonic balancer etc. to gain access to it. Its on a 2.4 galant 1998. So what are the easiest steps can you wal me through it.
bahahahaha..... i take it that youve never taken the water pump out of a 7g? I had to replace mine 3 years ago and it was a ROYAL BITCH!. The timing belt has to be removed unless you find a way to get it off without removing it but goooood luck with that.
Remove the PS, alternator, and ac belts. remove pulley on water pump. Jack the car up. Remove harmonic balancer. Remove upper and lower timing belt covers. Boom you have access. I suggest rotating the timing belt to where all timing marks line up on TDC, mark it on the crank line, cam line and oil pump line with something that you can see and wont fade when you touch it (white out is what i would suggest). Mark on the belt where the line is CA for cam, CR for crank, OI for oil this way you dont have to figure out which line is which. Then remove the pump, replace it and make sure the lines you marked on the belt line up with the TDC marks on everything and you should be good to go. P.S. I dont think you have to remove the motor mount to get the water pump out. You do have to remove the mount to get the timing belt out however.
i have never done it before. Im really scared to mess with timing. i dont know any thing about TDC and how to allign the belts,etc. I dont have the money to get a shop to do it. there is no way around the timing.what should i do?
its at around 25 so what does this mean.
the vaccum on the FPR does that mean i dont have a vaccum leak or leaks.
There are just that many spots where vac leak can be found.
1. Start by pulling the vac lines off the TB one by one and then shutting the nipples of the TB with your finger /no gay/.
2. Another leak might be the FPR itself or the vac line to it, so pull the vac line out and shut the nipple on the intake manifold.
3. EGR gasket
4. PCV valve. 99% of the time, a OE PCV valve from the parts store will not seal or the amount of air it lets by is too much. PCV hose - inspect that too.
5. Post MAS leak - the black rubber duct from MAS to TB, TB gasket and seals, IM gasket. Theres a hose connecting the valve cover to the black duct - make sure the hose is there or if you have the little filter on the valve cover, make sure the nipple on the black duct is shut
6. Brake booster hose - inspect for cracks
if i think of some else Ill post it
Okay I have vaccum tester so when you say close the nipple with my finger then what. Im not understanding what im checking for by doing that part.
replaced tb and egr gasket problem persist. vacum is between 20 and 25.
where can I get a FPR for cheap new?
I put the stock air intake box back on .Think thatw as the problem. I hope. Where can I get a fuel pressure regulator for cheap 98 galant es? Somebody. My vacum on all lines is between 20 and 25 is that good? Thanks for all the help.
not reading the whole thread, but here is a list of what to check right from the mitsubishi shop repair manual.
code P0170 fuel trim malfunction
Background:
if a malfunction occurs in the fuel system, the fuel compensation value becomes too large or too small
ecm check to see if the compensation value is in the specified range
a light will be thrown if the compensation value exceeds the specified range for 10 seconds during closed-loop control of the air/ fuel ratio.
Pobable CAUSES:
volume air folw sensor failed
injector failed
incorrect fuel pressure
air drawn in from gasket seals, etc
heated oxygen sensor failed
engine coolant temperature sensor failed
intake air temp sensor failed
barometric pressure sensor failed
engine control module failed
exhaust manifold cracks
so check all of that as thats all the Mitsu techs would check so therefore are the only causes for your issue. i recommend getting the true repair manual for your year. i have had chilton and haynes and they are great, but theres nothing like this.
2014 Lancer Evo GSR
1996 Galant S 5 Speed Turbo
Need a Turbo rebuilt or upgraded--> http://www.thegalantcenter.org/showt...ebuild-Service
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