I just hit a jackpot

**IVORY_G** · 12-09-2009, 11:27 AM

Ur wlcm. Headlights, grille, bumper & foglights are all JDM.

**03-Galant-ES** · 12-09-2009, 12:39 PM

If the air bag didnt go off, which it probably did in accident I want the steering wheel. Pull all thats good and sell what you dont need or want to us and Evo forums. 6 hours is more than enough to rip it apart. Rent a U-Haul truck.

**4g63lover** · 12-09-2009, 12:49 PM

Originally Posted by mrg7243

Wouldn't i also need the rear diff, axles, ect.

You can run the EVO trans FWD. With a littlle bit of cutting to the front subframe.

Doing a quick search here or Club3g and you will quickly find out that a fellow Galant Center member is running the EVO trans FWD and a few members on C3G are running them AWD.

blue8g · 12-09-2009, 01:58 PM

i want the evo trans.....where are you

**mrg7243** · 12-09-2009, 02:38 PM

Originally Posted by blue8g

i want the evo trans.....where are you

I am located in maryland, If i have the time I will get it, and send you a pic and pricing. i will only be able to get the transmission since i will be cutting the axles for the brakes, reason being i have alot to get, and i don't have the six hours i thought i only have 4 1/2 max. I will mostly be cutting stuff off and disassembling later.

I really don't want to have to go through the hassle of re-doing the subfram, i will just get a re-furbed 3g tranny to start with, maybe when i start upgrading ill either get it built or i will go evo trans.

Sorry but i was going to put the steering wheel on my car, if you want any other parts besides, front seat, wing, rims, brakes, badges, seat rails, motor, ecu, wiring harness, cluster, or motor mounts let me know and i will be happy to get it to you.

**Stewi** · 12-09-2009, 03:56 PM

Originally Posted by mrg7243

I am located in maryland, If i have the time I will get it, and send you a pic and pricing. i will only be able to get the transmission since i will be cutting the axles for the brakes, reason being i have alot to get, and i don't have the six hours i thought i only have 4 1/2 max. I will mostly be cutting stuff off and disassembling later.

I really don't want to have to go through the hassle of re-doing the subfram, i will just get a re-furbed 3g tranny to start with, maybe when i start upgrading ill either get it built or i will go evo trans.

Sorry but i was going to put the steering wheel on my car, if you want any other parts besides, front seat, wing, rims, brakes, badges, seat rails, motor, ecu, wiring harness, cluster, or motor mounts let me know and i will be happy to get it to you.

are the front axles damaged? If not, please dont cut them, I would like to buy them from you.

I am the member referred to above, I run the EVO trans in my car converted to FWD

**mrg7243** · 12-09-2009, 05:41 PM

Originally Posted by Stewi

are the front axles damaged? If not, please dont cut them, I would like to buy them from you.

I am the member referred to above, I run the EVO trans in my car converted to FWD

I honestly have no clue if they, i will try to keep them intact, but if i get a time crunch i will cut them, i can't garrantee anything.

Also how did you convert it do you just run it without a driveshaft?

**Stewi** · 12-09-2009, 06:35 PM

Originally Posted by mrg7243

I honestly have no clue if they, i will try to keep them intact, but if i get a time crunch i will cut them, i can't garrantee anything.

Also how did you convert it do you just run it without a driveshaft?

Honestly, the factory EVO axle shafts are made of a material close to that of 300M, I doubt your gonna have anything laying around thats gonna cut through an axle shaft. Aside from that, the axles are easily pryed off once the knuckle is unbolted, so cutting or attempting to cut the axle will get you no where...fast.

In order to run the trans FWD you need to open the trans up and weld the center diff (the one in the trans, not the one in the transfer case). You then seperate the transfer case, removing the middle/tail section leaving just the front part and make a block off plate to cover where the rear part used to be. You also need to trim the subframe a bit, you dont need to fabricate a new one, but it does need to be removed/trimmed/cut and test fit a few times to get it right on.

**mrg7243** · 12-09-2009, 07:12 PM

Originally Posted by Stewi

Honestly, the factory EVO axle shafts are made of a material close to that of 300M, I doubt your gonna have anything laying around thats gonna cut through an axle shaft. Aside from that, the axles are easily pryed off once the knuckle is unbolted, so cutting or attempting to cut the axle will get you no where...fast.

In order to run the trans FWD you need to open the trans up and weld the center diff (the one in the trans, not the one in the transfer case). You then seperate the transfer case, removing the middle/tail section leaving just the front part and make a block off plate to cover where the rear part used to be. You also need to trim the subframe a bit, you dont need to fabricate a new one, but it does need to be removed/trimmed/cut and test fit a few times to get it right on.

I gotta plasma cutter

whats an estimate of removal time? I will try my best to get them.

It sounds like a pain in the ass to do the transmission.

**Stewi** · 12-09-2009, 10:08 PM

Originally Posted by mrg7243

I gotta plasma cutter

whats an estimate of removal time? I will try my best to get them.

It sounds like a pain in the ass to do the transmission.

Here is the easiest way. disconnect the two bolts that hold the lower control arm to the subframe/body of the car, disconnect the brake line, remove (cut) the stabilizer bar end link it attaches to the top of the lower control arm, then remove the 3 nuts that hold the top of the strut to the body, the whole thing should drop out, then just use a pry bar to get the axle to slide off the trans. when you pry the axle, pry the green part of the inner CV, dont pry the dust shield it will just damage it.

If your using air tools and a plasma cutter you should be able to get both sides out in under 30 minutes. With hand tools about 45 minutes to an hour depending on how fast you work.

**mrg7243** · 12-10-2009, 10:00 AM

Alright sounds decently easy, should i get your axle before i drop the motor, or could i just cut all the supports and drop motor trans, axles, everyhting at once??

**RedGalant2k1** · 12-10-2009, 10:20 AM

Originally Posted by mrg7243

The car was in an acident and bent the frame.

I would have no use for the trans, steering knuckles i assume is what you mean?

The frame can be repaired. Get the whole car, fix it, sell it.

**keith6110** · 12-10-2009, 12:17 PM

seriously, i would just buy the whole evo from ya lol

**WhiteGalant** · 12-10-2009, 12:20 PM

Where are you in MD im in MD as well I can come help!! I want some parts!!! lol

**mrg7243** · 12-10-2009, 01:36 PM

Originally Posted by RedGalant2k1

The frame can be repaired. Get the whole car, fix it, sell it.

The frame isnt the problem the guy said i could take whatever i want as long as i don't take the body or the frame. or i would have to pay, he crushes cars for five hundred a pop.

Its down past charlotte hall in st. marys, id love help and stuff but the guy said anyone but me and my friend have to pay for parts....

**Stewi** · 12-10-2009, 04:17 PM

Originally Posted by mrg7243

Alright sounds decently easy, should i get your axle before i drop the motor, or could i just cut all the supports and drop motor trans, axles, everyhting at once??

here is the EASIEST way.

Being the guy crushes cars for a living, I would venture to say he probably has a large forklift.

Get the car jacked up on all 4 corners. Support the car on the body not on the subframe or any suspension parts. Get the forklift under the front of the car, with the forks aimed toward the back of the car and up against the subframe. Go under the car, unbolt the 3 bolts holding the engine mount on the passenger side to the engine, then unbolt the large 14mm bolt that holds the passenger side engine mount to the body. Then go under the car, unbolt the 6 subframe bolts, unbolt the 2 front K-frame bolts, unbolt the 3 nuts on each strut tower, lower the forklift and the whole thing will drop out the bottom. As your dropping it out, use large cutting pliers and cut any hoses or wiring that gets tangles, its gonna end up being the fuel lines and possibly 1 power steering line and the oil cooler lines.

Move the forklift to the rear and do the same thing with the rear subframe and upper strut bolts. Now the entire suspension and drivetrain will be on the ground. now get the forklift under the side of the body, lift the body up and out of the way and set it aside, viola, there is all your stuff.

**mrg7243** · 12-10-2009, 08:33 PM

yes he does have a forklift, i take it this would prob take three hours to do if i am not mistaken, which gives me plenty of time to get parts requested and my stuff

**Stewi** · 12-11-2009, 04:31 PM

yeah doing it this way is easiest because once the body is out of the way you can stand over the drivetrain and have all types of access to take it apart versus doing it laying on your back with no leverage.