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Thread: Buschur Racing 2.4 build

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  1. #1
    You are here entirely tooo much!! Stewi's Avatar
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    Buschur Racing 2.4 build

    http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-dyn...ts-inside.html

    excellent results on a stock cylinder head........
    Quote Originally Posted by qnz
    well there are talkers and there are do'ers. talkers never do. and do'ers never talk
    99' Galant ES
    4G64/63T
    AEM EMS

  2. #2
    TGC Regular phizzalot's Avatar
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    I've been watching the evo fellas getting happy with the 4g64 as well.... Have you seen this?

    http://floridaevoclub.com/showthread...q-on-BBK-Turbo!!!!

    I think there running about the same thing but doing a little better...
    ---||| 97Galant, E3 16G, Safc, 5spd,Drifter Body |||---

  3. #3
    stewi, how much will all this cost? i know it varys but do u know around how much?

    i really want to build the motor frist and stay N/A. FI in the future with 5speed/AWD..... :)

  4. #4
    You are here entirely tooo much!! Stewi's Avatar
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    engine only, like pistons, rods, crank, bearings, head, valves, cams, etc. around $5000.
    Quote Originally Posted by qnz
    well there are talkers and there are do'ers. talkers never do. and do'ers never talk
    99' Galant ES
    4G64/63T
    AEM EMS

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Stewi View Post
    engine only, like pistons, rods, crank, bearings, head, valves, cams, etc. around $5000.
    but then is OK to stay N/A and have the engine ready to go FI in the future? is there any negative impact on that?

  6. #6
    Senior TGC Member mrg7243's Avatar
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    It depends on the pistons you put in, if you put 8.5 compression ratio pistons in then no you cant go NA, you could go 9:1 comp. pistons and be fine as that is the stock comp. ratio, any higher and you cant boost unless you have the head built more pressure inside the combustion chamber more likely of blown head gaskets and lifted heads.

  7. #7
    Experienced TGC Member
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    I would love to do a 2.4 build I <3 2.4 :)
    03 ES 5spd--Rota torque gloss black 17x8 et. 35--Hankook Ventus V12 evo 235/45/17--D2 coilovers--DC Sports STB--Intake--Brembo calipers--Powerslot Rotors--Stoptech Pads--SS brakes lines--35% tint--5k heads & 5k fogs--Alpine headunit--Kicker 400w amp--Alphasonix sub

  8. #8
    You are here entirely tooo much!! Stewi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrg7243 View Post
    It depends on the pistons you put in, if you put 8.5 compression ratio pistons in then no you cant go NA, you could go 9:1 comp. pistons and be fine as that is the stock comp. ratio, any higher and you cant boost unless you have the head built more pressure inside the combustion chamber more likely of blown head gaskets and lifted heads.
    Please make sure you fully understand what your saying before you mis-inform someone else.

    What does having a built head have to do with being able to run a higher compression ratio?

    NOTHING

    On any built motor your gonna wanna run a multi layer headgasket and ARP headstuds, if you have those two things present and the engine is assembled properly to spec, the parts inside the head for the most part will have no effect on how much pressure the head can sustain. Obviously if you start with a bad head with bad valve seals and a warped surface, of course it wont work, but you would feel someone building this type of motor would make sure the head was "good" before putting it together. High performance parts like valves, cams, guides, port work, etc, is all great, but not "needed" for it to work.

    With that being said, the amount of boost you can run versus a specific compression ratio has alot to do with your fuel system, ignition system and engine management system. Engines need 3 things to run.....air....fuel....and spark. You then have it tuned to allow those 3 things controlled properly, and the engine runs excellent. There are people who put turbo's on 10 and 11:1 comp ratio stock engines on various different cars and then run 10-15psi of boost reliably, because they have a rock solid engine management system and a tuner who knows what he's doing.

    Do some searching on Club3g, there was a guy on there "zeeshan" who was running a 35R on a bone stock 4G64 motor he got from the junkyard for $400, he BEAT THE SHIT out of that engine for a while and it worked great. With that being said, he also had a solid $2500 into his fuel and engine management systems..... see what im saying?
    Quote Originally Posted by qnz
    well there are talkers and there are do'ers. talkers never do. and do'ers never talk
    99' Galant ES
    4G64/63T
    AEM EMS

  9. #9
    Experienced TGC Member
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    ^^^^^Listen to Brian, he knows his shit :)
    03 ES 5spd--Rota torque gloss black 17x8 et. 35--Hankook Ventus V12 evo 235/45/17--D2 coilovers--DC Sports STB--Intake--Brembo calipers--Powerslot Rotors--Stoptech Pads--SS brakes lines--35% tint--5k heads & 5k fogs--Alpine headunit--Kicker 400w amp--Alphasonix sub

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Stewi View Post
    Please make sure you fully understand what your saying before you mis-inform someone else.

    What does having a built head have to do with being able to run a higher compression ratio?

    NOTHING
    On any built motor your gonna wanna run a multi layer headgasket and ARP headstuds, if you have those two things present and the engine is assembled properly to spec, the parts inside the head for the most part will have no effect on how much pressure the head can sustain. Obviously if you start with a bad head with bad valve seals and a warped surface, of course it wont work, but you would feel someone building this type of motor would make sure the head was "good" before putting it together. High performance parts like valves, cams, guides, port work, etc, is all great, but not "needed" for it to work.


    With that being said, the amount of boost you can run versus a specific compression ratio has alot to do with your fuel system, ignition system and engine management system. Engines need 3 things to run.....air....fuel....and spark. You then have it tuned to allow those 3 things controlled properly, and the engine runs excellent. There are people who put turbo's on 10 and 11:1 comp ratio stock engines on various different cars and then run 10-15psi of boost reliably, because they have a rock solid engine management system and a tuner who knows what he's doing.

    Do some searching on Club3g, there was a guy on there "zeeshan" who was running a 35R on a bone stock 4G64 motor he got from the junkyard for $400, he BEAT THE SHIT out of that engine for a while and it worked great. With that being said, he also had a solid $2500 into his fuel and engine management systems..... see what im saying?
    Exactly! Can you copy and past this into my build thread since everyone thinks i can not run 10.5:1 and 15lbs of boost with meth?

    Your really not going to run into a problem boosting a engine unless you are "knocking" (detonation) if you have a good tune boost will not and should not harm a well put together engine. People seem to think that boost is some magic thing when it is entirely simple really, exhaust spins turbine wheel, wheel sucks in outside air and compresses it, the moving pressure is forced into the intake system, which is mixed with fuel in the engine. The dense compressed air mixed with the right amount of fuel creates a bigger explosion, forcing the piston down faster.

    If your engine is on a really crappy tune it is going to experience knock also known as detonation caused by to much compression and not enough fuel pre igniting the air in the cylinder and causing the engine to endure strain and over time will cause internal failure.




    Quote Originally Posted by mrg7243 View Post
    It depends on the pistons you put in, if you put 8.5 compression ratio pistons in then no you cant go NA, you could go 9:1 comp. pistons and be fine as that is the stock comp. ratio, any higher and you cant boost unless you have the head built more pressure inside the combustion chamber more likely of blown head gaskets and lifted heads.
    oh and who ever told you, you can not drive a 8.5:1 n/a car is retarded and should be slapped, non vtech d15's are really low compression like that and they are driven everyday by millions of people that are happy that they get 35 miles to the gallon and the car can run on minimal octain while doing this. So get your facts strait before posting info.

    1996 galant s
    finishing up my 2.4L DOHC, 10.5:1, precision sc60, meth injected MONSTER.

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