Im goin to f'in kill myself.

[Galant Evolution]

I have the same vibrations you have when its only in gear at a stop, Im assuming its my trans so I just go with it till it blows. will be watching this thread to see what you find out.

Hmm yeah its most likly the tranny....blows

[Armageddon Sunset]

start saving for a 5spd, thats my plan.

[warren]

try taking the plug one by one if you see that one of them when you take it out its not doing anything then that one gone

[Galant Evolution]

try taking the plug one by one if you see that one of them when you take it out its not doing anything then that one gone

Yeah there all fine...grr

[pooprajoe]

This might not be related at all, or it could have everything to do with it, so I am going to throw this out there. The motor could be choking on fuel or gasping for air so I'd get the MAF checked out.

here is the money shot, nissan maximas are notorious for having problems with them, same situation as yours it would idle horrible with bad vibrations, and it would sometimes clear up for a day and then another time it would be exactly stop light to stop light. before you spend money on a 5 speed swap as others suggest, try another new maf and please not a junkyard one, usually autoparts stores may carry a life time warranty on these and you will be able to replace it for free next time. (also have you noticed any type of loss or gain in mpg this is another sign of bad maf).

heres 1 way I learned to test for sure is when the car is acting up remove the air filter and place your hand on the maf with it still hooked up car on, move your fingers around giving the car more air little by little and try and rev the car up and see if you notice any change at all... but I'd put money on your maf being bad.

[keith6110]

i know everyones basically leaning towards tranny. i think that could be it. but why would it still vibrate when its not moving. hows your tach look when you're idling?

If you do feel its your tranny. Make sure you have enough fluid in it to begin with. You need to check it while its in gear and when its warm already. have some one hold the brakes for you and check your tranny fluid. if its low, that can certainly be the problem.

If you find that your transmission has enough fluid while in drive or reverse, take some of it out and add something called: lucas transmission treatment. it works like a dream and gives you smooth shifting again. Seriously tho, low tranny fluid causes rough shifting as well.

This is important. The transmission levels are a quart or more higher when the car is in neutral. You need to check it when its in drive or reverse. you need some one to hold the brake. Don't go trusting a block or something else. lol

-good luck

[keith6110]

here is the money shot, nissan maximas are notorious for having problems with them, same situation as yours it would idle horrible with bad vibrations, and it would sometimes clear up for a day and then another time it would be exactly stop light to stop light. before you spend money on a 5 speed swap as others suggest, try another new maf and please not a junkyard one, usually autoparts stores may carry a life time warranty on these and you will be able to replace it for free next time. (also have you noticed any type of loss or gain in mpg this is another sign of bad maf).

heres 1 way I learned to test for sure is when the car is acting up remove the air filter and place your hand on the maf with it still hooked up car on, move your fingers around giving the car more air little by little and try and rev the car up and see if you notice any change at all... but I'd put money on your maf being bad.

hey try that as well. didn't even think about the maf sensor.

good call man

[Galant Evolution]

here is the money shot, nissan maximas are notorious for having problems with them, same situation as yours it would idle horrible with bad vibrations, and it would sometimes clear up for a day and then another time it would be exactly stop light to stop light. before you spend money on a 5 speed swap as others suggest, try another new maf and please not a junkyard one, usually autoparts stores may carry a life time warranty on these and you will be able to replace it for free next time. (also have you noticed any type of loss or gain in mpg this is another sign of bad maf).

heres 1 way I learned to test for sure is when the car is acting up remove the air filter and place your hand on the maf with it still hooked up car on, move your fingers around giving the car more air little by little and try and rev the car up and see if you notice any change at all... but I'd put money on your maf being bad.

I will deff try that and idk if its normal gas milage on a 2.4 engine im getting 250ish maybe 270 if lucky mostly highway and some city :-/ I did how ever take off the air filter and with the MAF plugged in i went from park to nutral and it still was horrible vibrations..so i know atleast its not the air filter itself being restricted.

i know everyones basically leaning towards tranny. i think that could be it. but why would it still vibrate when its not moving. hows your tach look when you're idling?


If you do feel its your tranny. Make sure you have enough fluid in it to begin with. You need to check it while its in gear and when its warm already. have some one hold the brakes for you and check your tranny fluid. if its low, that can certainly be the problem.

If you find that your transmission has enough fluid while in drive or reverse, take some of it out and add something called: lucas transmission treatment. it works like a dream and gives you smooth shifting again. Seriously tho, low tranny fluid causes rough shifting as well.

This is important. The transmission levels are a quart or more higher when the car is in neutral. You need to check it when its in drive or reverse. you need some one to hold the brake. Don't go trusting a block or something else. lol

-good luck

Tach reads around 700/800 RPM at idle in eather nutral or park. RPM's drop to 600 RPMs when in gear, although i also noticed that if i stay in gear a while the needle slowly itches higher getting close to the 700RPM mark...sometimes when i come to a quick stop the RPMs will drop below 500 and quickly back to the 600 mark causing the engine to almost stall out. And wow i didnt know that about the trans! i was always checking it while it was hot but in park and the level was right in the middle of "max" and "low"!

[Ruslik]

i had a problem similar to that it was vibrating
the thing turned out to be my hood one of those rubber bumper/stopper thingys was lost
check that it might help

[Galant Evolution]

i had a problem similar to that it was vibrating
the thing turned out to be my hood one of those rubber bumper/stopper thingys was lost
check that it might help

Ill check but i dont hear any like metal to metal noise it seems to be something different. Regardless ill give it a look thanks!

[Galant Evolution]

Checked the tranny fluid, it has small bubbles in it idk if thats normal? the level is correct fluid color was mostly transparent with a little tan color.

[KaziKai]

Checked the tranny fluid, it has small bubbles in it idk if thats normal? the level is correct fluid color was mostly transparent with a little tan color.

Does it smell burnt?

[Siccntwysted]

My car has been doing the same thing..I have done about all he has done plus some..(all motors mounts,redone timing belts 3 times to makes sure things set right, replaced TB and all everything modual related attached..lol...intake maniforld..coils,wires,plugs,maf, fuel filter,fuel pump...we thought it was a torque converter maybe thrown a weight..but wasnt it..changed it while we had it out..lol..I notice on mine with its vibration..even while in park..place one hand on throttle body and use other to increase rpm..it will vibrate the living..out of your hand..mine seems to be focused twards the TB or something..yes i even changed it out completely..no diffrence..i'm puzzeled still..also mine ...vibration gets worse the higher rpms...but also while keeping it around 2500-3000rpm like 65-70mph it surges..then after 70 it is fine..but let off around 65-70mph and it jerks and hesitates..it sucks..I'm about to throw it in the trash for real!

[Siccntwysted]

oh forgot we also replaced CAT..muffler,resonator..lol..never know..lrunning out of parts to throw at it..lol ..thinking about a way now maybe to squeeze this 3000gt vr4 motor in it..when it finaly vibrates out of the engine bay..hahaha

[Galant306m]

I know this thread was kind of dead but both of you pul your intakes offim fairly certin you both have cracked intake manifolds, when not under load the computer can sort a vaccum leak out fairly easily. When underload it will try so many different compensations that the engine will not run right because the computer can not figure out what the problem is an correct it effectivly

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

[Stewi]

I know this thread was kind of dead but both of you pul your intakes offim fairly certin you both have cracked intake manifolds, when not under load the computer can sort a vaccum leak out fairly easily. When underload it will try so many different compensations that the engine will not run right because the computer can not figure out what the problem is an correct it effectivly

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

I was thinking the same thing myself, not sure how this went 2 pages without someone bringing that up.

[tamim13]

On reading this thread, I was wondering how come the IAC was not brought up? His RPMS are going down to 500 on gear. I don't think that is normal. I've seen it to be smooth only when it's about 700-800 on gear right? Correct me if I'm wrong. When my IAC went bad, my car used to lurch around on gear as it was idling too low, but was smooth on neutral. How many miles does your car have?

You can do a voltage test on the IAC, check out the service manual.

[keith6110]

I was thinking the same thing myself, not sure how this went 2 pages without someone bringing that up.

I'm v6 and lack the I4 cracked manifold knowledge lol.

[Galant306m]

On reading this thread, I was wondering how come the IAC was not brought up? His RPMS are going down to 500 on gear. I don't think that is normal. I've seen it to be smooth only when it's about 700-800 on gear right? Correct me if I'm wrong. When my IAC went bad, my car used to lurch around on gear as it was idling too low, but was smooth on neutral. How many miles does your car have?

You can do a voltage test on the IAC, check out the service manual.

Iac is really only there to create fast idle when a engine is cold it would not cause the problem they are having. Seems like they have a huge vacuum leak to me.

[JesterX]

I just have a quick comment about checking the trans fluid...The way that was described with someone holding the brake and checking it in gear does not sound like a good idea to me. Check it the way it was meant to be checked, fluid warm, in PARK and on a level surface. If you do that you will be fine. That is the way it was designed to be checked so why not stick with that and not risk running yourself over with your own car because of something stupid?