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Reply With Quote(1) Timing Belt: MD336149
(1) Balance Shaft Belt: MD182295
(1) Timing Belt Tensioner: MD182537
(1) Timing Belt Idler: MD156604
(1) Balance Shaft Tensioner: MD352473
(1) Water Pump: MD976464
Timing belt Question
Anyone know the part list for a 8G 2.4L Timing belt, water pump kit, adjuster for the timing belt tenisoner, and the belt for the balancer timing...
I need to change my timing belt... im at 123k miles and I bought the car at 77k... never changed it... So I dont know what all the parts i need... I have a squeeky noise coming from the water pump.. so I know I need to change that.. after reading a few post here and there... I came to a conclusion to just change everything.. and where I can order these...
I went to the only mitsu store in vegas day.. and found that it would cost me $404.63 before tax.. and when I asked to get the model number.. they said they cant give that to me.. so.. anyone know what do I need to change and if you have the part list and if there are other places in Vegas that would be cheaper?
I was thinking of ordering the Timing Belt from mitsu for $45.78 and I was looking on Rockauto.com for parts.. anyone can recommend me to a website or a place where I can get parts cheaper it would be good! Or if anyone can get discounts somewhere..
Thanks!!!
**Please dont Flame me for this** I did use the search bar... :)
(1) Timing Belt: MD336149
(1) Balance Shaft Belt: MD182295
(1) Timing Belt Tensioner: MD182537
(1) Timing Belt Idler: MD156604
(1) Balance Shaft Tensioner: MD352473
(1) Water Pump: MD976464
I recomend rockauto.com for getting parts, ive ordered at least three times, cheapest name for name ive found, fast shipping. I ordered a cat, and they emailed me after i ordered it saying delays were expected cause of the snow, and stocks. I am overall very impressed with them
so what happened to the pictures in the "how-to" on timing belt replacement?
You should purchase a Haynes manual if you want step by step pictures.
haha I just did that today.. but thanks! now watch me screw this all up....Originally Posted by Jeffylou87
yeah i did already. tomorrow, armed with the PDF service manual and Haynes manual, having all replacement items sans the idler pulley, using the two special tools necessary to set the belt tension, i am going to replace my galant's timing belt. i will try to take as many pictures as possible and then will try to post them here.
That would be sweet! Im going to try to change it using the haynes manual.. Im a noob and watch me F it all up!
Better yet.. i might just wait till u post them...
yeah... sorry i didn't take many pictures. i'll post what i got, though, later.
the main thing is: you have to have torque wrenches in the range of 88 INCH-lbs to about 80 FOOT-lbs. also you might need an impact wrench (to undo the crankshaft bolt).
you will need AT LEAST the special tool that looks like a little thing with two prongs, and it's best if you have the other special tool that looks like a long bolt. i have both, and if you pay shipping both ways and some kind of safety deposit, i can send them to you on monday or tuesday.
i used all OEM parts: water pump, water pump gasket, crankshaft and oil pump oil seals, small timing belt, big timing belt, tensioner, tensioner pulley, small timing belt tensioner pulley, and service belts.
here's the thing: all manuals tell you to remove that rubber plug and stick a screwdriver in there to prevent the oil pump balancer shaft from rotating, but the truth is, that you don't have to do that. the sprocket will not rotate by itself.
when dealing with the timing belt and water pump, i had to jack up or lower the engine a lot (it was hanging on three mounts most of the time), so it's best if you have a garage with lift AND a jack. you need to have the engine all the way up to even get to the water pump pulley bolts and/or remove the pulley.
while you're there, it's best (imho) to replace any and all oil seals (i replaced crank shaft oil seal and the oil pump oil seal. i wish i had the third, balancer shaft oil seal). it's very simple to do: just stick a very thin and flat screwdriver BETWEEN the shaft and the oil seal and pry it out. but BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO EVEN TOUCH THE SHAFT, as any scratch will cause an oil leak and you'll have to replace the shaft, be it crankshaft or balance shaft. and any shaft is a pain in the ass to replace.
it is very useful to have both PDF and Haynes manuals, because some information is not listed in the factory manual (such as lengths of timing belt cover bolts), and some isn't in the Haynes (torques for most bolts).
also i used Genuine Mitsubishi Long Life coolant, and i could tell that it's at least different in color from the prestone shit, after which i had some rust on the engine block surface. i hope Mitsubishi fluids are better than generic ones.
i tried as much as possible to place bolts from different components into separate zip-lock bags that i marked, in order to know which bolts go where.
when installing the timing belt itself, MAKE SURE there is NO SLACK between crankshaft pulley-oil pump pulley-camshaft pulley. in that order. you have to apply some force to pull the belt over the camshaft pulley. if you don't, then you skipped a tooth and you have a slack somewhere.
the manual says to rotate the crankshaft clockwise two times at the most to align all of the timing marks, but i had to do it three times each time, because that's what it took to align the oil pump sprocket.
if you are going to take off the balance shaft sprocket, or the oil pump sprocket, break free their bolts while the timing belts are still on - it's easier that way. same goes for the water pump pulley: break it free while the service belt is still on.
other than that, it's all basic taking apart and putting it back together. don't forget to TORQUE EVERY AND ALL BOLTS.
if you have any questions, post them here; i check the forum almost daily.
i used the website www.oemmitsubishiparts.com. i found that their prices on average are about 25-40% cheaper than at my local dealership.
i will need this: water pump assembly, little timing belt, little timing belt tensioner pulley, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, timing belt tensioner pulley, and all the oil seals you will want to replace (if they are not leaking, though, they are totally fine and you don't need to replace them). plus you will need both service belts.
out of other things, you will need to buy a lot of shop towels, mitsubishi long life coolant, distilled water (1 gallon both), brake cleaner.
and of course you will need such tools as: all sizes of metric sockets. a few extensions of different lengths. 3/8" ratchet. torque wrenches in the range of 88 inch-lbs to 88 foot-lbs. special mitsubishi tools listed in the manual. jack. impact wrench.
ok so here come my pictures with some comments.
here you can see the little timing belt installed. circled red are the timing marks. it is NOT necessary to use the screwdriver trick to keep the oil pump sprocket from rotating, it just won't do it by itself.
notice that the crankshaft position sensor blade is off. to take that off, i had to remove the sensor itself. i also took off the tensioner's arm and thoroughly cleaned and degreased it.
here is the mock-up of the new timing belt. notice that it is very loose on the left side (you can see how the belt curves where circled red) and how tight it is between crankshaft, oil pump, and camshaft: everything is very straight.
on this picture you see the rubber plug you are supposed to take out in order to screw in the mitsubishi special tool 7938 or something like that (that looks like a long bolt). this one right here, next to that plug:
and this is what it looks like screwed in:
everything else is pretty much intuitive and simple, as long as you follow the manual (i followed both Haynes and factory mitsubishi manuals).
What does that tool that looks like a bolt do exactly?on this picture you see the rubber plug you are supposed to take out in order to screw in the mitsubishi special tool 7938 or something like that (that looks like a long bolt). this one right here, next to that plug:
93 MR2
X2
is that necessary?
i could've sworn i posted a reply to your questions.
that tool pushes on the tensioner arm to prevent any deviations from the bottom-most position when you are torquing the tensioner pulley down. because, as you know, you have to torque the pulley itself at the same time you are torquing down the pulley bolt. and when you are pushing the pulley against the belt, this action can push the tensioner arm a little bit up, thus taking away from the tensioner's potential to absorb the slack in the timing belt.
i would say it's not REALLY necessary but i would rather have it than not. i mean, is it REALLY necessary to replace the packing around the fuel pump every time you take it out?
you can search for this tool and buy it for about $20 plus shipping online (not OEM, but it worked for me).
varroa, how did you get the crank bolt off?
an impact wrench. a pretty powerful one, since it broke the torque on the fifth or so impact. i figured it was also strong enough to torque it back down ^_^
btw, if anybody needs that bolt-looking tool, i can loan it out if you leave me with a deposit (which i'll refund) and pay for shipping both ways. but i don't know if it even makes sense to do, since shipping will pretty much cost marginally as much as the tool itself.
hm. i don't have an impact. gonna have to improvise....
i was thinking of asking where you're located, but since I'm planning on doing it saturday I figured i'd just order it quick. got the timing adjuster as well. $55 incl. 2-day shipping for both tools. oh well.
unless you're local to milwaukee....lol.
no, i'm in brooklyn, NYC right now.
but it's all good. now there will be two geographical points of loaning out those tools for TGC members.
if you have any more questions, just post them here, i'll try to recall as much as i can.
oh, make sure you got a quality torque wrench.
also, for improvising taking off the crankshaft bolt: the rumor has it, you can press the breaker bar against the body and crank the engine a couple of times.
the wrong things i see with that is: 1) wearing down the starter too much, 2) how are you going to put the bolt back on?
try to borrow an impact wrench from autozone or something like that.
Your doing it wrong.
1) Remove the flywheel inspection plate.
2) Stick a flat blade screw driver part way between the flywheel teeth
3) Turn the crank with a socket until the screwdriver is resting against the bottom of the block
4) Give her a couple quick pumps and the crank bolt will come loose.
I have never had a problem doing it this way. For reinstalling the crank bolt, do the same thing, except the screwdriver will be on the opposite side of the block.
Also, you don't want to "torque" bolts with an impact.
PS.
I have never used the Mitsu special tool to compress the auto tensioner. Just unbolt it, get a clamp to compress it and put a cotterpin in it, then reinstall. But, if you are re-using an old auto tensioner, you are doing it wrong again.
This is the tool that goes in the tensioner pulley to tighten it.
http://www.toolsource.com/timing-bel...i-p-92748.html
You can get around this with an L allen key, vice grips, and a normal socket wrench.
Last edited by seth98esT; 05-13-2010 at 08:17 PM
7g for life!
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