7-bolt 4G64 w/2g DSM head turbo build q's

[eclipsh]

So it looks like I'm going to try and build my 2.4 into a turbo motor this summer to replace the leaky 4G63-T I've got in the car right now. The car is already turbo etc. so that isn't the issue. I've been digging through 2.4 build info for weeks and there is more BS than info in most of the threads (DSM Talk's thread in particular). I've got a set of Eagle H-beam rods and friction coated/balanced Wiseco pistons.

What I am looking for is particular bits that I can use from each engine and other specifics.

Do I need to plug the five holes in the block when using a 2g head?

Which oil pump/front case can I use? I'm planning on running an external air oil cooler (likely an A/T fluid cooler since they are dirt cheap and easy to find).

Since I'm AWD, I think I need to use my awd 7 bolt pan. Will it fit without any of the crank bits hitting?

I plan to remark my cam gears and run those. I've heard if I grind down one of the timing tensioner components I can use a 4G63 timing belt. I may just run the 4G64 belt though.

I'm thinking I'll use the '64 coolant pipes as well. Any issues there? Will I have to use the '64 water pump if I do?

From what I've read if I use ARP studs for the head or ARP bolts for the cradle I'll need to align hone the crank journal. Is this true or a myth?

Any help from those that have done this is much appreciated.

[DOHCstunr]

I'd have to see part numbers but the 64/63 7 bolt oil pump should be exactly the same. same for the water pump and timing components. I've never read anything about grinding down the tensioner to use a 63 belt... honestly I dont see the big deal in just getting a dohc 64 belt.
Are the AWD and FWD oil pans different? I was not aware of this, as I thought they were all the same. The 64 oil pan is deeper though.
More importantly if you use a 63 pan, make sure you use a 63 oil dipstick.
if you use a 64 pan, make sure you use a 64 dipstick.

You can use an evo3 oil filter housing. It has the provisions for an air cooled external oil cooler just like the 1990 6 bolt housing. A few of the DSM vendors sell these.

If you use ARP studs for the head, you will not need to line hone the main journals. This is only if you use ARP main studs. Also, there is a company that makes dowels to keep the main caps lined up on the ARP studs(since they are slightly smaller in diameter) but you would still need a line bore WITH A TORQUE PLATE.

I'd just stick with OEM mitsu main bolts. Unless you plan on making 700+hp(which is about 200hp more than you'll want to throw at eagle/wiseco combo)

as far as water pump they are all the same, but for the coolant pipe, its more a matter of what t-stat housing you want to run. The 2.4sohc t-stat housing is in an akward/ugly place and idk if its even compatible with the dohc setup. The 2.4dohc thermostat is what I run on my 6 bolt, and it allows me to use my factory radiator with radiator cap. I think it would be hard to find that t-stat housing. so you'll have to run the 2g thermostat housing(or your 1g will be fine) Only thing is the radiator cap is on it so... idk you'll probably have to get a 2g radiator(without the radiator cap)

[peanotation]

even after the years and years of people blabbering that you need to plug the 5 holes in the 2.4L block (sohc), i still wasn't fully convinced, but now i have a 94 GS block and a 94 ES block.


my original 1994 ES Block


DOHCStunr's 1994 GS Block - picture flipped to match pic above for easy reference


so I guess it's officially true. i've even lined up a SOHC and a DOHC headgasket on the ES block and it all checks out, gotta plug the holes. i mean, i guess you really don't HAVE to plug the holes, but it all makes for a tighter system.

how much merit is there towards the common fear that if you don't plug the holes, you'll have extra case pressure? i've been having a little bit of a tough time finding brass freeze plugs in the sizes needed.....and we should use brass right?

[skrap]

DAM YOU!!!! I wanted to be the first one awd with a 63/64 build!!! Ugh!!why cant you wait like a year!!

[Shadow19]

You will want to do a line bore with the arp studs. Im sure youll want to have it checked even if you dont use them. We just had my gf's block checked and the line bore on the crank checked out but the block didnt. If i were you since youre doing the 2.4 build and IF you remove he balance shafts do yourself a favor and have he whole rotating assembly balanced. My car is VIOLENT without the balance shafts but my gf's 2g wasnt at all. I guess its all in the size of the motor. As for the oil pump im almost sure i read on the instrucions for the 7 bolt oil pump it can be drilled out to make it work on the 6 bolt engine. If you want ill check to see if thats true. My 6 bolt block is on the engine stand and i have fucking 3 7 bolt oil pumps. I do know that the filter housings wont work. My 90 GS came with an external oil cooler and the bolt holes on the filer housings are a little different than the 7 bolt. As for plugging the holes in the block are they pressurized? If they arent im not sure why it would hurt anything. I mean if you look at the HG after you seat the head on the block of a 2g the gasket is exposed to the oil from the head anyways. For the oil pan i really dont think there is a difference in he 2g and 7g other than the cutout for the drain tube. If you look closely at the 7g oil pan there is a flat surface exactly where the 2g drain tube is stamped on the 2g's. I modded my oil pan to work just like a 2g does. If you want the cooler i have on my 90 shoot me an offer.

[mko]

youll need DOHC water pipe, radiator hoses and thermostat.

The DOHC and SOHC front engine housings are different (part number wise), but they are identical and compatible. 63t/64 dohc are the same and make slightly higher pressure.

Youre right about the t-belt. you can grind off the tensioner arm and make the 63 belt to work, or you can just use the 64 dohc belt

As far as the ARP main and head bolts. The problem is that the ARPs have ore clamping force even when their tighten to OEM specs, so the usual mistake people do with the ARP main bolts is to have them tighten and when they tighten the head bolts that twists off the motor a bit and it starts wearing the main bearings. The right way to do is to have the head bolts tighten to specs and then turn the engine and tighten the main bolts

[eclipsh]

Awesome guys, thanks for all the info :) I posted this same set of questions up over on DSM Tuners. They had a lot of similar info. I'll try to get my parts together over the next month or so so I can get started on the build this summer. I'll probably send the short block off to the machine shop next Thursday if all goes as planned.

[Shadow19]

If you need the oil cooler, 2g water pipe and 2g thermo housing let me know. I have all of that stuff. LMK your offer and we can go from there. Only thing is the 2g block is tapped and has a water outlet on the block itself. I forgot what it goes to but i think it may be the turbo. At any rate good luck and let me know if youre interested.

[eclipsh]

Shadow, thanks for the offer. I've got a running '63-T in the car now so I've got all the parts I am just looking at what will optimize the setup best and which parts I should go buy new.

[Shadow19]

HAHA.. I totally forgot youre already 63t'd my bad.

[seth98esT]

even after the years and years of people blabbering that you need to plug the 5 holes in the 2.4L block (sohc), i still wasn't fully convinced, but now i have a 94 GS block and a 94 ES block.


my original 1994 ES Block


DOHCStunr's 1994 GS Block - picture flipped to match pic above for easy reference


so I guess it's officially true. i've even lined up a SOHC and a DOHC headgasket on the ES block and it all checks out, gotta plug the holes. i mean, i guess you really don't HAVE to plug the holes, but it all makes for a tighter system.

how much merit is there towards the common fear that if you don't plug the holes, you'll have extra case pressure? i've been having a little bit of a tough time finding brass freeze plugs in the sizes needed.....and we should use brass right?

Did you find them yet? According to MKO, we need:
1x1/2nch freeze plug
2x5/8s freeze plugs
2x11/16's freeze plugs

PartsDinosaur has 1/2 and 5/8 plugs, but not 11/16. I did a quick google and couldnt find much in terms of 11/16 plugs. I am going to order the 1/2 and 5/8 plugs from PD and try to find the other two elsewhere.

5/8" Cup - http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product2852.html
1/2" Cup - http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product3275.html
1/2" Shallow - http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product2826.html

What would be a better choice to plug the block? Cup or shallow freeze plugs?

[peanotation]

i have a 1/2" and two 5/8" ones, but no 11/16", it's gonna be tough finding those for sure...

and seth, the links you posted are for the wrong sizes.....those are for 1 5/8 and 1 1/2, not 5/8 and 1/2

[seth98esT]

Yeah, I ordered them, they were slightly too large lol!

If you find a good place to order them, let me know.

[Boosted]

If you wanna get rid of that 63, I am in need of one.

[eclipsh]

It would just be the short block but if you want that I could probably let it go. PM me with an offer.

[4-G-rim]

My boy did this swap in a week 1/2...he wrote a tutorial on GT.
http://www.galanttuners.com/kb.php?a=64

[peanotation]

Yeah, I ordered them, they were slightly too large lol!

If you find a good place to order them, let me know.

if i find any 11/16" i'm gonna buy as many as i can, i'm starting to wonder if these even exist!

[skrap]

Buy them up and then sell them to the rest of us!! lol

[seth98esT]

I found 1/2 and 5/8 locally, but no 11/16th still.

[mikeyturbo97]

Hey guys you will find the 11/16 at NAPA.