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Reply With QuoteI would wait until the 3G track day to find out whats up with the kit. Some good argumentative points there thats for certain.
http://www.eclipseforums.org/showthread.ph...&threadid=96467
But I have not decided yet. I am going back and forth over whether to plunk down the money. What do you all think?
-Mohammad
I would wait until the 3G track day to find out whats up with the kit. Some good argumentative points there thats for certain.
Love,
Matt
Some really thorough research, and certainly valid points, especially about the cripmped ends of the stiffening bars. Plus if you read the vendor's early post he says " if you don't notice a difference, you're not driving hard enough". Whats up with that? I think you'd get more out of a full set of solid bushings than the D3 kit.
Chip
Chip
2000 Basalt Black Metallic GTZ
(Paint Code: Porsche LC9Z)
Genuine experience carries a lot more credibility than the ability to answer a question.
Guys, I have the kit. It made a big difference. It won't make your bushings harder. It won't make your shocks firmer. It will make you corner better after you put it on. As for the $500, it depends what $500 means to you.
If you did all the stuff that Eslai was talking about on 3G you might not like it. You car would vibrate like a bastard and you'd feel everything. There is a reason that passenger car makers isolate the chassis from the frame - comfort. But, to each his/her own
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(VegasMatt)</div><div class='quotemain'>I would wait until the 3G track day to find out whats up with the kit. Â*Some good argumentative points there thats for certain.</div>
I gotta agree with you, i would wait for the 3g track day, just to see all the numbers.. But from reading all the posts, there are a number of valid points being used, and i personally cant wait to see what happens.
I Shook You At The Track, My Boyz Threw Asprin On The Floor, They Said Now You Gotta Headache...
The illiterate of the twenty-first century will not be those who can not read or write, but those who can not learn, un-learn and re-learn.
As alot of the local members already know, I'll push a car, bike, truck.....anything to its limits. If Gilhily sayz it will improve the way my 8g handles (even if its ONLY alittle bit) it may be something for me to look into. Personally I love my setup now, I know the limitations of it but I wouldnt mind reducing wheel hop, Im not sure if my situation is selfinduced by me using Firm Polyurthane mounts to replace the whiimpy ones it came with. As is I can damn near turn on a dime. As Vegas and Shane have stated show me the numbers or the improvements on a skidpad, increase in g's something. My new motto is going to memic one of the states motto... Im the show me member...prove it true and I'll try it
I don't have any data on what this does for wheelhop as I don't push my car off the line like that. I don't think that this will do alot for wheelhop. I think that would be a bushing issue mostly.
Actually, solid motor mounts will help that wheel hop tremendously. The front will do most of the correction, but front and rear will do wonders, as I've read over on club3g. Just that the rear is a lot harder to replace. I'm thinking the front is my springtime project.
But yea, Mante. I'm adopting that motto with ya. I've seen the results of unproven mods first hand.
Chip
Chip
2000 Basalt Black Metallic GTZ
(Paint Code: Porsche LC9Z)
Genuine experience carries a lot more credibility than the ability to answer a question.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Fishboy55)</div><div class='quotemain'>Actually, solid motor mounts will help that wheel hop tremendously. The front will do most of the correction, but front and rear will do wonders, as I've read over on club3g. Just that the rear is a lot harder to replace. I'm thinking the front is my springtime project. Â*
But yea, Mante. I'm adopting that motto with ya. I've seen the results of unproven mods first hand.
Chip</div>
Yeah all I want to replace is the front mount. They say it makes the car vibrate more though...more in what sense is what I'm trying to gather. However, if it saves the engine and tranny shoot I can live with a bit more vibration. Plus I don't want the engine to tear free one day. The thing that is getting me is that even though the price for the firm mounts is relatively cheap, labor is going to eat me up.
"Daisy tumbled short of his dreams, not through her own fault, but because of the colossal vitality of his illusion... No amount of fire or freshness can challenge what a man will store up in his ghostly heart. " - F. Scott Fitzgerald, The Great Gatsby
"I have not failed 700 times. I have not failed once. I have succeeded in proving that those 700 ways will not work. When I have eliminated the ways that will not work, I will find the way that will work." - Thomas Edison
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Rallifan)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Fishboy55)</div><div class='quotemain'>Actually, solid motor mounts will help that wheel hop tremendously. The front will do most of the correction, but front and rear will do wonders, as I've read over on club3g. Just that the rear is a lot harder to replace. I'm thinking the front is my springtime project. Â*
But yea, Mante. I'm adopting that motto with ya. I've seen the results of unproven mods first hand.
Chip</div>
Yeah all I want to replace is the front mount. They say it makes the car vibrate more though...more in what sense is what I'm trying to gather. However, if it saves the engine and tranny shoot I can live with a bit more vibration. Plus I don't want the engine to tear free one day. The thing that is getting me is that even though the price for the firm mounts is relatively cheap, labor is going to eat me up.</div>
Yeah, I wondered about the additional vibration as well. You really don't have to worry about wear on the engine or tranny from the stock mounts unless you're continually peeling out and hopping your wheels. And your engine isn't going to break free, even if your stock mount breaks. The purpose of the urethane mounts is to make the engine more stable and bolt it more firmly to the frame. That will give you a much better launch and less wheel hop, that is inherant in FWD.
There's a post in aftermarket about this. Dragon got the solid mounts. Putting in the front one is easy Peter. It's only a few bolts and is easy to reach with the car on ramps or a lift. You can do it yourself in less than an hour. It's the back one that's harder. But replacing the front will give you the most bang for your buck. Check out this from RRE. It uses an alternative to buying a mount, but takes a lot more time for the compound to dry. http://www.raktron.com/misc/mt.htm
Chip
Chip
2000 Basalt Black Metallic GTZ
(Paint Code: Porsche LC9Z)
Genuine experience carries a lot more credibility than the ability to answer a question.
The only vibration that I experience is at idle, the steering wheel shake a little more than normal...trust me, you can live with it once you find out how much of an improvement it gave you.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dragon300le)</div><div class='quotemain'>The only vibration that I experience is at idle, the steering wheel shake a little more than normal...trust me, you can live with it once you find out how much of an improvement it gave you.</div>
Oh psh that's fine...I had vibration much worse when I still had my downpipe. My hands would actually go numb if I was at a red light too long and forgot to pop the car into neutral.
"Daisy tumbled short of his dreams, not through her own fault, but because of the colossal vitality of his illusion... No amount of fire or freshness can challenge what a man will store up in his ghostly heart. " - F. Scott Fitzgerald, The Great Gatsby
"I have not failed 700 times. I have not failed once. I have succeeded in proving that those 700 ways will not work. When I have eliminated the ways that will not work, I will find the way that will work." - Thomas Edison
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Rallifan)</div><div class='quotemain'>Oh psh that's fine...I had vibration much worse when I still had my downpipe. My hands would actually go numb if I was at a red light too long and forgot to pop the car into neutral.</div>
Nobody ever did answer my question in the other motor mount post about the difference between the 2000 and 2001 motor mount.
Energy Suspension lists one for then eclipe 2000-2001, but I couldn't find one for a 2000 at deyeme racing.
Ripps has the front for the 2000, and god knows I trust Ross and his stuff, so I will likely go with that one if nobody knows.
And Peter, you can't buy the motor mount, or else we'll see you sitting at red lights like this :sleepy: with the steering wheel on your lap and the seat full up because of the numbing vibration... :laughing:
Chip
Chip
2000 Basalt Black Metallic GTZ
(Paint Code: Porsche LC9Z)
Genuine experience carries a lot more credibility than the ability to answer a question.
I replied to the thread on Club 3G, but for those who are too lazy to check it out, I want to say that the D3 kit did make a difference. My Galant is definitely stiffer. Period!
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