Kicker L5 vs. Type R's

[The_fresh_Galant]

Ok, I kno i said was goin with Alpine Type R's 12's. But my question is Would Kicker L5's be better than Type R's. Im wantn subs thats will hit Low notes and some mid to high bass too. They will be in a 'L' ported box.

I havent personally heard both in a car. And I can get 2 of either one for about the same price...Which would be best( S.Q, SPL, and Durability)

[kylecanthurdle]

if you wanna go type rs you really gotta power them bitches up. i think rms was 500 each for the 12s, i could be wrong, but if you underpower them you run the risk of blowing them up. id say the l5s and a 1000 watt amp and ull be set

[jubeiaire]

Theres no such thing as high bass..Just Mid and Low....R's for SOund quality L's fpr SPL.. Or just Get TypeX and have both in one

[jubeiaire]

Note: If you run either of those subs with an amp thats more than 75 amps below rms you will over work the amp and surge the speaker frying your amps board and cooking at least 1 voice coil on the subs so stay as close to rms mono as you can.

[The_fresh_Galant]

WEll i already got the Hifonics 1610D..Which was a great choice thanks to some of you guys on here...so im not worried about how much power they need...i kno how to tune my amp without blowing anything..an by high bass..i mean bass that most subs dont hit anymore that make a car rattle after the bass stops for a sec....

And Kyle, Im lookn at the new Type R's that are 600w RMS, 1800w peak(Which is B.S) a peice...

[keith6110]

Alpines for sure. Best quality sounding speakers I have ever heard so far.

[NAZTY g]

yup r's all the way i love my 12 r

[The_fresh_Galant]

Thanks guys, My friends been tryn to talk me into Type R 15's...i think thats too much money an too much bass For the G...i love it loud tho..people kno me for haven one of the loudest around here.

[glantnation]

i have the L5's and they hit on rap but on everything else they kind of sound gay...if i could do it over i would get 3 type r....

[Joshua42007]

Alpines for sure. Best quality sounding speakers I have ever heard so far.

I gotta disagree with you on that. I just got rid of my old setup - 2 12inch alpine type r, 2ohm subs. And i replaced them with 2 12inch kicker cvx's the 2010 model, also 2ohm. They bang twice as hard and the quality is like 10 times better, the difference is like night and day. The alpine type r is 1500watt max, 500 rms. The cvx 12 is 750 watts rms and 2000


The L5 is what I would go with, just my personal opinion. If you get the right amp, i bet it sounds better than a type r. Type x would be a different story

[Sokhar]

Running a 12" Type R at 500w @ 2ohm and it pounds so hard I have to keep adjusting it down or its going to shake my G to pieces LOL

[jubeiaire]

I gotta disagree with you on that. I just got rid of my old setup - 2 12inch alpine type r, 2ohm subs. And i replaced them with 2 12inch kicker cvx's the 2010 model, also 2ohm. They bang twice as hard and the quality is like 10 times better, the difference is like night and day. The alpine type r is 1500watt max, 500 rms. The cvx 12 is 750 watts rms and 2000


The L5 is what I would go with, just my personal opinion. If you get the right amp, i bet it sounds better than a type r. Type x would be a different story

what was the production date on the rs how long did you have them ...did you break them in first. how often and long did you play them....what im getting at is if you wore them down then put in a comparable competitor its obvious the new subs would sound better....only way to say one is better than other is to drop down a 50% norefund deposit on setup and have shop let you hear both brand new speakers in your car same box same amps same settings, before you decide.

[zobgel]

I have a 10" type X 1000RMS with mono Alpine PDX 1000RMS and I love it. I would say go for type R or type X.

[Joshua42007]

what was the production date on the rs how long did you have them ...did you break them in first. how often and long did you play them....what im getting at is if you wore them down then put in a comparable competitor its obvious the new subs would sound better....only way to say one is better than other is to drop down a 50% norefund deposit on setup and have shop let you hear both brand new speakers in your car same box same amps same settings, before you decide.

I purchased the speakers (type R) in 2009, brand new from best buy. Yes i broke the speakers in, do you think im going to just install them brand new and start beating them to max wattage? And why would i drop 50% no refund deposit on a setup? im not gonna just pay money to watch some people test some speakers out. Oh and i dont need a shop to confirm which speaker sounds better, i have a decibel meter that can tell me which is louder.


Kicker L series (and my CVXs) are more of a SPL sub, and Alpine's are SQ....even though depending on the enclosure both can get VERY loud and both can sound VERY good (especially the Alpine)

it just depends on what you want to aim for

SPL vs. SQ

[Joshua42007]

what was the production date on the rs how long did you have them ...did you break them in first. how often and long did you play them....what im getting at is if you wore them down then put in a comparable competitor its obvious the new subs would sound better....only way to say one is better than other is to drop down a 50% norefund deposit on setup and have shop let you hear both brand new speakers in your car same box same amps same settings, before you decide.

I purchased the speakers (type R) in 2009, brand new from best buy. Yes i broke the speakers in, do you think im going to just install them brand new and start beating them to max wattage? oh and i dont need a shop to confirm which speaker is better, i have a decibel meter that can tell me which is louder.


Kicker L series (and my CVXs) are more of a SPL sub, and Alpine's are SQ....even though depending on the enclosure both can get VERY loud and both can sound VERY good (especially the Alpine)

it just depends on what you want to aim for

SPL vs. SQ


and when i say they hit harder, thats where the spl comes into play. here, this will help you understand why my subs are hitting harder


Alpine:
12" Type R:
Xmax = 18.1mm
Sd = 480 cm^2

Kicker:
06S12L7:
Xmax = 14.1mm
Sd = 643 cm^2



Amount of air volume moved per linear excursion:
(please confirm this, as I used the basic forumula of Area*Height=Volume)

Alpine = 12" Type R = 868.8 cm^3

Kicker = 06S12L7 = 906.6 cm^3

[ricky_db]

sorry for the long post but i had to fix these HAD TO! i dont want anyone to get all but hurt but these are the facts
feel free to look it up your self PM me and i will give you the links and sites to expand your knowledge lol

if you wanna go type rs you really gotta power them bitches up. i think rms was 500 each for the 12s, i could be wrong, but if you underpower them you run the risk of blowing them up. id say the l5s and a 1000 watt amp and ull be set

no sub in the history of car audio has EVER been blown by underpowering it. look up clipping and wave forms, you will understand.

Theres no such thing as high bass..Just Mid and Low....R's for SOund quality L's fpr SPL.. Or just Get TypeX and have both in one

high bass can be produced by to frequency you tune your enclosure to

Note: If you run either of those subs with an amp thats more than 75 amps below rms you will over work the amp and surge the speaker frying your amps board and cooking at least 1 voice coil on the subs so stay as close to rms mono as you can.

ok now this took me a while to understand im still not sure if i do but i think you meant to say 75 watts bellow rms? but thta still doesnt make sence. If you run a clean signal 75 watts below or even above the rms of the sub nothing will happin. the advantages of running a sub past its rms ARE ONLY noticeable at DB comps where your chasing dbs and fractions count. Now if you have a decent amp it MAY reah its RMS but honestly most amps on the main stream market (other than the big brands that cost waaaay to much for the power they put out) just DNT put out their RMS that is why its always good to have a good mmount of head room with your amp so your NOT gained all the way up or clipping your signal so mush that it turns to a square wave THEN clips your sub to death. So having said all of that you do NOT want to "stay as close to RMS as you can" thats what blows output transistors in amps.

WEll i already got the Hifonics 1610D..Which was a great choice thanks to some of you guys on here...so im not worried about how much power they need...i know how to tune my amp without blowing anything..an by high bass..i mean bass that most subs dont hit anymore that make a car rattle after the bass stops for a sec....

And Kyle, Im lookn at the new Type R's that are 600w RMS, 1800w peak(Which is B.S) a peice...

Running a 12" Type R at 500w @ 2ohm and it pounds so hard I have to keep adjusting it down or its going to shake my G to pieces LOL

one good thing that came from this thread

what was the production date on the rs how long did you have them ...did you break them in first. how often and long did you play them....what im getting at is if you wore them down then put in a comparable competitor its obvious the new subs would sound better....only way to say one is better than other is to drop down a 50% norefund deposit on setup and have shop let you hear both brand new speakers in your car same box same amps same settings, before you decide.

actuly once you (break in) (loosen up) a speaker it is then able to meet its full potential with out worrying about ripping spiders or the cone beeing to rigid to hit the lowere notes

[Joshua42007]

sorry for the long post but i had to fix these HAD TO! i dont want anyone to get all but hurt but these are the facts
feel free to look it up your self PM me and i will give you the links and sites to expand your knowledge lol

no sub in the history of car audio has EVER been blown by underpowering it. look up clipping and wave forms, you will understand.

high bass can be produced by to frequency you tune your enclosure to



ok now this took me a while to understand im still not sure if i do but i think you meant to say 75 watts bellow rms? but thta still doesnt make sence. If you run a clean signal 75 watts below or even above the rms of the sub nothing will happin. the advantages of running a sub past its rms ARE ONLY noticeable at DB comps where your chasing dbs and fractions count. Now if you have a decent amp it MAY reah its RMS but honestly most amps on the main stream market (other than the big brands that cost waaaay to much for the power they put out) just DNT put out their RMS that is why its always good to have a good mmount of head room with your amp so your NOT gained all the way up or clipping your signal so mush that it turns to a square wave THEN clips your sub to death. So having said all of that you do NOT want to "stay as close to RMS as you can" thats what blows output transistors in amps.



one good thing that came from this thread


actuly once you (break in) (loosen up) a speaker it is then able to meet its full potential with out worrying about ripping spiders or the cone beeing to rigid to hit the lowere notes

x2

[The_fresh_Galant]

lol...thanks for clearing it up Ricky

So I'm wanting 2 12's that will pretty much hit Low bass notes Hard such as 15hz an also go up around 60hz...so i want SQ(Subs to play 85% of songs hard an loud), So my choice will still prolly be the 3rd Gens from alpine.

Heres link to a quick video of setup now...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hp1mTtPAveQ
Why theres no sound on video, IDK.

[jubeiaire]

sorry for the long post but i had to fix these HAD TO! i dont want anyone to get all but hurt but these are the facts
feel free to look it up your self PM me and i will give you the links and sites to expand your knowledge lol

no sub in the history of car audio has EVER been blown by underpowering it. look up clipping and wave forms, you will understand.

Subs Do get blown from underpowering them but not from the under power. THey get blown when the amp blows and allows the power surge to hit the sup. So technically its the power surge that blows the sub.

high bass can be produced by to frequency you tune your enclosure to

Let me Break this down. In sound on the main We have HIGHS MIDS & LOWS

Subs Produce Bottom range Mids And All range Lows
Now ill break that down
Even with your Subs hooked up to a 2 or 4 channel non mono amp set to full range they do not produce Highs that can be toneally heard while also producing MIDS/LOWS. you will have to stand behind your trunk and put your head near the sub to hear the highs

If you are Using a MONO block amp Which you should it wont even pass through Highs. it will have an Adjustable LOW pass Filter.
Now to understand Mids through lows understand that it is all bass. Its just the frequency(How hard it hits-Vibration strength) that determines if its better suited for a mid bass (usually Speakers 6-8inch and a few 10's)or Low Bass Subs 10-15"know as woofers. When you tune your box and system you tune it to how Loud Vs Hard you want the bass to be. thats where subs producing Light Moderate or Heavy bass comes in. but that is not a sub producing HIGHS which is where i said there is no such thing as High bass. HIGH LEVEL BASS yes buts thats a uneducated term. In sound systems Highs refer to VOICE SYMBLES FLUTES HORNS BELLS.
Three types of bass lvls you get
1st Acustic-Clean even sound that doesnt over power mids and highs and wont vibrate you out of your seat
2nd-Sound Comp-will slightly over power Acustic Highs and lows wihile giving you a decent back massage and at max crank will upset your eardrums with prolonged exposure
3rd-SPL Bass that is pure Vibration that drowns out all Highs/Lows. and primarily will make you deff if you sitt in direct path and ignore your eardrums bleeding.

So with that said Its not called high bass its called Light, Moderate or Heavy Bass.

ok now this took me a while to understand im still not sure if i do but i think you meant to say 75 watts bellow rms? but thta still doesnt make sence. If you run a clean signal 75 watts below or even above the rms of the sub nothing will happin. the advantages of running a sub past its rms ARE ONLY noticeable at DB comps where your chasing dbs and fractions count. Now if you have a decent amp it MAY reah its RMS but honestly most amps on the main stream market (other than the big brands that cost waaaay to much for the power they put out) just DNT put out their RMS that is why its always good to have a good mmount of head room with your amp so your NOT gained all the way up or clipping your signal so mush that it turns to a square wave THEN clips your sub to death. So having said all of that you do NOT want to "stay as close to RMS as you can" thats what blows output transistors in amps.

If you take a 1000w RMS sub with 2000w max and pair it with a MONO(which you should be using) amp producing 900Rms 1600max. the sub will be constantly trying to draw 1000w rms at all times while the amp will try to push 900 at all times...this referes to not death cranking the volume. Since any person tuning a system follows the guidelines of tuning at Half the radios max volume you would be setting the gains and filters for that lvl. However when people show off or vent stress with their radio thay crank it to max so the subs are no longer asking for 1000w rms they are asking for 2000w. this leads to over heating the amps and causing them to shut off. if you continually do this you will fry the amp in a surge and that surge can pass through to the subwoofer subsequently blowing your sub. Remember were talking bout type R's with no protection buit in for this.

actuly once you (break in) (loosen up) a speaker it is then able to meet its full potential with out worrying about ripping spiders or the cone beeing to rigid to hit the lowere notes

You didnt pay attention to what i was saying here you zoomed in on a section of a whole question... If he had not broken in the Subs then he ran the chance of over stretching the spider and distorting their sound hence the new subs even un-broken in would sound better than out stretched old subs.