2001 galant rotor change...now wheels getting stuck

[stecca]

after replacing the front rotors and pads on my 2001 galant i went to take her for a test drive and was afraid to leave the driveway...

the car feels as if it's constantly going over speed bumps. it's an automatic, and when i try to just let the car roll i can feel the front wheels "sticking" - hitting the gas breaks it free for a wheel's revolution and the cycle continues.

i've already removed and put back on the new rotors and pads and run into the same issue.

any ideas?

[OMEGA PHX]

after replacing the front rotors and pads on my 2001 galant i went to take her for a test drive and was afraid to leave the driveway...

the car feels as if it's constantly going over speed bumps. it's an automatic, and when i try to just let the car roll i can feel the front wheels "sticking" - hitting the gas breaks it free for a wheel's revolution and the cycle continues.

i've already removed and put back on the new rotors and pads and run into the same issue.

any ideas?

Rotors are bigger in diameter or thickness, you bought bigger ones and didn't thought about your wheels offset or it was mounted wrong

Solution: change rotors to the same spec you had before, get someone who is more knowledgeable than you to check them, install a spacer to pull the wheel away from your calipers/rotors.

[Stewi]

Rotors are bigger in diameter or thickness, you bought bigger ones and didn't thought about your wheels offset or it was mounted wrong

Solution: change rotors to the same spec you had before, get someone who is more knowledgeable than you to check them, install a spacer to pull the wheel away from your calipers/rotors.

No offense, but dont listen to any of this.

How could you tell a guy that he didnt think about his wheel offset when purchasing replacement rotors. Its not like he installed a big brake kit. It sounds like he just replaced his worn out rotors and pads with stock replacement parts, start with simple things first.

First off, where did you buy the rotors and pads from? Make sure the part#'s are correct for the ones for your vehicle. Compare the new rotor to the old rotor, the diameter should be the same, the thickness of the new rotor should be a little thicker than the old rotor since the old one is used and worn.

Next, check your calipers, your calipers could be siezed, meaning when you release the brake, the caliper is still applying pressure to the pad and causing constant contact between the pad and rotor, causing the car to slow down quickly.

Next, if you did everything I just suggested and still have trouble, take the wheel off and take a bunch of pictures of the brakes and post them up here, maybe we can see something out of place and help you out.

Lastly, if all else fails, or if your tired of messing with it. Bring it to a mechanic to have it checked out. If its really difficult to drive like your saying, please have it towed for consideration of yours and other drivers safety.

L

[qnz]

I would try what stewi suggested

[troubled4g64t]

the other thing I would suggest is to check you guide pins and make sure they are lubed good and not binding since that will also affect the brakes and if the caliper is not relaxing you will see uneven wear from one side meaning driver or passenger so look for marks on the rotor that show obvious contact and compare to the other side

[stecca]

my parts were purchased at an autozone as OEM replacements, but i'll go ahead and make sure the part numbers are correct.

i'll also regrease my guide pins.

is there a way to physically check for seizing calipers? they seemed to push back just fine when i hit them with the c-clamp...

thanks for the advice thusfar...i'll update when this rain stops

[RedGalant2k1]

is there a way to physically check for seizing calipers? they seemed to push back just fine when i hit them with the c-clamp...

Lift the car off the front axle, block the rear tires, and try to spin both front wheels. If one or both don't spin (and the car is in neutral), you most likely have a caliper seized up. The first thing I would do is reinstall the old parts, if the issue is still there with the old parts now, a caliper piston was re-compressed improperly (it happens).

[stecca]

so if the caliper was pushed back incorrectly is it shot?

[Joshua42007]

I would try what stewi suggested

.

[keith6110]

funny I replaced my rotors and pads yesterday night and just one of my tires would not spin freely. I had just replaced all calipers less than 4 months ago, so couldn't be that.

To make a long story short, When bolting my calipers back on in the front, one of the rubber pieces that are on the pins had gotten stuck inside the caliper bracket. So when I had tightened the calipers in, It was slightly offset where the brake pads were rubbing on the rotors when the brakes were off.

If just one wheel seems like it's not spinning freely, take the calipers off and make sure that rubber piece isn't stuck in the bracket. There might be extra grease in there and the pins are making a really tight seal. If this doesn't help, give us more details on the problem.

[stecca]

turns out the rotors weren't on all the way...

the tiny centering lip inside the rotor was preventing them from resting flush.

unfortunately, when i tried to hulk them into place i ended up cracking the rotor.

guess that's what i get for buying cheap blanks....

thanks for all the help!

[03-Galant-ES]

was it the front or rears that werent on right? Next time also make sure you compress the caliper as that could cause issues with fitment as well on the first like 50-100 miles.