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  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by beam514 View Post
    it's actually not our ROADS that are the worst.. it's the freeways. And no it's not because of crazy rain, flash flooding, snow, etc. It's cause they just did a shit job when building them. Some of them are the nice asphalt ones that are super smooth, some are wayyyy outdated and loud as hell. Most are the concrete ones that have 6 foot long slabs, most of which are either falling apart or have a huge height difference. They also seem to never fill the potholes either. We've had to avoid the same potholes on an easily worked part of the freeway for my entire life. Hell, they shut down the freeway to one lane late at night to renovate a bridge.. but they can't fix the fucking pot holes lol

    oh and it's the crazy steep driveways into the stupid strip malls all over the place. It's not exactly flat lands out here
    If you have potholes as big as park benches you can consider it rough. I lived in Illinois and Michigan over 30 years, I've been to 19 other states, and 4 different Countries. Illinois and Michigan are by far the worst.

    If you think it bad they don't repair one pothole? Try watching them repair the potholes, then fill over other potholes, and repeat until the entire road is pothole repairs. That is literally how Downtown Detroit used to be on the highway. As far as construction? No state has more than Illinois and Michigan. I-290 is under construction for 35 miles, both directions. I-355 is under construction from I-88 to I-90 (its entire length. I-90 is under construction east of I-355 for 20 miles. I-88 has been under construction for over 3 years, for 30 miles.

    That doesn't even include the related bridge repair all along these highways. It also doesn't include when things get flooded and impassable. It also doesn't include the shoddy repair work, and off days because of a little rain. I know a lot of American infrastructure is in disrepair, and aged nowadays. But I've never seen roads consistently worse than in Michigan and Illinois, ironically the two biggest Union Supporting states...coincidence?

  2. #22
    You are here entirely tooo much!! beam514's Avatar
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    all right all right I guess you're right. Those aren't pot holes.. those are pits lol

    but believe me we also have concrete freeways where they filled the potholes with asphalt, much higher than the level of the freeway. So for the length of the freeway it feels like you're driving over the lane divider bumps lol

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by RAZ_76 View Post
    That's not what your suspension components are saying but hey, looks trump longevity of your car.
    I have driven about 80.000km with my K-Sports and only the bushings (i think its called in english) has to be replaced. The coilovers needs an overhaul since all the oil has gone. But thats gonna cost me a 1$ or 2 since i only need some gaskets.
    With regular lowering springs the Galants only looks like they should have looked stock. They are so god dam high that only coilovers and airbags can lower it enough so it looks dropped :P

  4. #24
    rule of thumb, the lower you drop the harsher it's gonna be. it's all up to the owner's preference. the harshness comes as a by-product of the springs wether they are on coilovers or regular lowering springs... stock springs are soft and that's why the stock ride is soft. dampers (shocks/struts) are only there to control the springs action on rebound and compression. if they weren't there the car would be almost uncontrollable since the car would be like a pogo stick. lowering springs are stiffer than stock and so the damper has to be stronger than stock to control them; coilovers come w/ dampers matched to control the springs they come with, all in one unit.

    basically if you are going to lower from .5"-1.5" then you can just use lowering springs (if your stock dampers are still in good shape). if you plan on lowering 1.5"-2.25" then you will have to upgrade your dampers or they will "blow", leaving them unable to control the springs, and you will end up w/ a bouncy car. if you plan on lowering past 2.25" then you might as well go straight to full coilovers that include short body dampers (not just adjustable sleeve springs) as they will last the longest at the desired ride height where stock length dampers will consequently fail; coilovers will also offer the best handling performance but comfort will suffer because of the stiffness of the springs and the dampers. so basically, when asked what is the "best" option to lower the car, i would then ask what is the final ride height goal?

    another option is air ride... it is on the fly adjustable from almost stock height to super low but the trade off is handling performance. if ride comfort AND a super low stance is what you want, you might wanna look into air ride.

  5. #25
    You are here entirely tooo much!! RAZ_76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThaShiZnitH View Post
    They are so god dam high that only coilovers and airbags can lower it enough so it looks dropped :P
    That's not true, what you consider a nice drop could be a slammed look for someone else. I was lowered on Teins first and they didn't lower me enough, still looked stock but megans gave me a good drop, uniform and rode nice with my KYB AGXs and cost me 450 dollars. Coilovers cost me 900 dollars and rode like complete a$$.

  6. #26
    If u want a low car and great handling u go for coilovers. Just avoid potholes and u will be fine. If u want more comfort and better handling u go for lowering springs/struts

    I heard that newer air ride kits have been improved handling vise.

  7. #27
    You are here entirely tooo much!! beam514's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAZ_76 View Post
    That's not true, what you consider a nice drop could be a slammed look for someone else. I was lowered on Teins first and they didn't lower me enough, still looked stock but megans gave me a good drop, uniform and rode nice with my KYB AGXs and cost me 450 dollars. Coilovers cost me 900 dollars and rode like complete a$$.
    I don't know how you got a hold of springs+AGXs for $450, but I know even with my used springs that I bought from BGR, I'm still over $450. If you bought something used, you can't compare the prices of buying something new vs. something used and complain about the difference.

    If you did however get the Megans and AGXs at that price.. then damn you must have good hookups. Or maybe this was back when the AGXs were cheaper? Eh I guess that's reasonable

  8. #28
    You are here entirely tooo much!! RAZ_76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beam514 View Post
    I don't know how you got a hold of springs+AGXs for $450, but I know even with my used springs that I bought from BGR, I'm still over $450. If you bought something used, you can't compare the prices of buying something new vs. something used and complain about the difference.

    If you did however get the Megans and AGXs at that price.. then damn you must have good hookups. Or maybe this was back when the AGXs were cheaper? Eh I guess that's reasonable

    The shocks were new, the springs were used but what does used springs versus new springs have to do with performance. Used springs with new shocks will perform the same as new springs and new shocks. Only difference, the springs will look old and the shocks new. Now if the shocks were used and the springs new, then you would have a valid argument.

  9. #29
    You are here entirely tooo much!! beam514's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAZ_76 View Post
    The shocks were new, the springs were used but what does used springs versus new springs have to do with performance. Used springs with new shocks will perform the same as new springs and new shocks. Only difference, the springs will look old and the shocks new. Now if the shocks were used and the springs new, then you would have a valid argument.
    I'm not saying anything about performance. I am saying comparing the price of something you bought used, then saying that the price of something else is way too much, even though its new. You could probably get used coilovers for around $600 if you searched long enough.

    Not quite the same, but it would almost be like saying "Why should I buy a brand new 2011 Mustang for $30,000 (i dunno how much they actually go for) when I can buy my slightly used 2005 for $15,000?"

    I know that's a big price difference, and a whole car is another story, but I think you get the analogy.

  10. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by RAZ_76 View Post
    If you have crappy roads, Coilovers are the last thing you want to get. Not sure whom told you that lowering springs screw up your car but don't listen to those idiots. If you get good shocks and quality springs, not only it will cost half of what coilovers do but it will ride a lot better. You wont be able to change height but it will ride good and you'll be able to get a drink of your pop when you're driving.

    I had coilovers and sold them as fast as I could, my car rode like a go kart. Coilovers are cool and all but I would not recomend them on a daily driving car unless you don't care what all that bouncing does to your suspension and you dont mind being uncomfortable while driving. If any suspension woul d screw up your car, I think Coilovers would be first on that list because of how harsh they ride. In the end is your car and your tastes, you decide.
    Well what kind of springs and shocks are we talking? better to get just whole new struts then maybe? or am i sounding like an ass and shocks are the same as struts?

    Quote Originally Posted by beam514 View Post
    well maybe you should pay a visit out here some time, cause it's hard to know-it-all when you haven't seen-it-all.

    I swear, some driveways, I scraped my bumper/lower crossmember when I was on my stock 4x4 suspension, going down at an angle.
    I know EXACTLY what you are talking about. California has good roads, its just L.A and places around the southern that have roads like it was a battlefield for transformers...


    Quote Originally Posted by Reelax View Post
    rule of thumb, the lower you drop the harsher it's gonna be. it's all up to the owner's preference. the harshness comes as a by-product of the springs wether they are on coilovers or regular lowering springs... stock springs are soft and that's why the stock ride is soft. dampers (shocks/struts) are only there to control the springs action on rebound and compression. if they weren't there the car would be almost uncontrollable since the car would be like a pogo stick. lowering springs are stiffer than stock and so the damper has to be stronger than stock to control them; coilovers come w/ dampers matched to control the springs they come with, all in one unit.

    basically if you are going to lower from .5"-1.5" then you can just use lowering springs (if your stock dampers are still in good shape). if you plan on lowering 1.5"-2.25" then you will have to upgrade your dampers or they will "blow", leaving them unable to control the springs, and you will end up w/ a bouncy car. if you plan on lowering past 2.25" then you might as well go straight to full coilovers that include short body dampers (not just adjustable sleeve springs) as they will last the longest at the desired ride height where stock length dampers will consequently fail; coilovers will also offer the best handling performance but comfort will suffer because of the stiffness of the springs and the dampers. so basically, when asked what is the "best" option to lower the car, i would then ask what is the final ride height goal?

    another option is air ride... it is on the fly adjustable from almost stock height to super low but the trade off is handling performance. if ride comfort AND a super low stance is what you want, you might wanna look into air ride.
    You're right, I have not decided how much lowere I want it to be, it just looks so high it gives me the feeling it needs like 5 inches off, maybe 2, or 2.5 inches... But yea im looking for low and medium comfort, and great handling. Based on what I have read so far, it seems lowering springs/struts would be my best option.

    Everyone keeps mentioning AGX, why are they a favorite? would the tein-S springs lower decently? Im still stuck... Maybe coilovers are the better idea, i love to corner without feeling any roll, but since it's probably going to be my daily driver, springs/struts are the best. Okay then, I save money too.

    So KYB AGXs and Tein-S or Megans seem to fit my situation

  11. #31
    blue8g
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    Springs won't give you great handling. Springs are just meant to make you lower, kind of stiffen the ride, and give the illusion of better handling because there is seemingly less roll

  12. #32
    Experienced TGC Member OMEGA PHX's Avatar
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    Struts are in the front shocks are in the back, AGX are dampening adjustable strut/shocks made by KYB, buy them for the 00-05 mitsubishi eclipse. Megans lower approx 2" all around, teins are a favorite throughout the community but they don't drop you enough in my opinion, if you want a bigger drop you would need full coilovers.

    I was on the same situation about 1 month ago, I went with the coilovers since AGX and springs would cost me around $700 and coilovers go for around $900 and I think they are going to last longer since agx aren't designed for dropped cars, I wanted to be able to set the height like I wanted, and be low, I wanted durability and I think I achieved a comfy so I'm happy.
    Last edited by OMEGA PHX; 10-11-2010 at 09:42 PM

    4g64T 5spd

  13. #33
    You are here entirely tooo much!! RAZ_76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blue8g View Post
    Springs won't give you great handling. Springs are just meant to make you lower, kind of stiffen the ride, and give the illusion of better handling because there is seemingly less roll
    Dude plase stop giving advice if you don't know what the hell you are talking about. Springs wont give you great handling?? Are you focking serious?? Spring and strut is also used in coilovers, only difference, you you can adjust height.

  14. #34
    blue8g
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAZ_76 View Post
    Dude plase stop giving advice if you don't know what the hell you are talking about. Springs wont give you great handling?? Are you focking serious?? Spring and strut is also used in coilovers, only difference, you you can adjust height.
    Are progressive rate springs designed for comfort used in coil-over applications?

  15. #35
    You are here entirely tooo much!! RAZ_76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blue8g View Post
    Are progressive rate springs designed for comfort used in coil-over applications?
    We are not talking about comfort, we are talking about handling. You said springs don't give you great handling but make you lower. Ok, what do you think lowering the center of gravity does to your handling?? What about different spring rates??
    Last edited by RAZ_76; 10-12-2010 at 01:29 PM

  16. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Kamikaze View Post
    Well what kind of springs and shocks are we talking? better to get just whole new struts then maybe? or am i sounding like an ass and shocks are the same as struts?
    Our car uses struts in front, and coil-over shocks in the rear. By coil-over I mean the rear spring instead of being separate from the shock, it is 'over' the shock body. The springs on an automobile are used primarily for ride height and absorbing shock. The difference between a shock and a strut is simply how they are integrated into a vehicle's suspension.

    A shock is simply bolted at two ends without involving other suspensions components. It can be removed and re-installed without affecting alignment angles. The coil spring is typically separate from the shock. But sometimes a manufacturer either needs extra space for RWD components, or intends the vehicle to handle a certain way, or has to cut costs. Whatever the case, this is our rear suspension setup.

    A strut is more integral in your suspension. Typically, a strut replaces the vehicles upper control arm. This is typically known as a "Macpherson" suspension. It has been the standard for front wheel drive vehicles. It helps clear up space for electronic components, and mostly the now front mounted transmission. The coil spring is repositioned over the strut to further clear up space. This is our front suspension setup.

    A coil-over shock means that the spring and shock are setup like a strut, but still mounted like a shock.

    You're right, I have not decided how much lowere I want it to be, it just looks so high it gives me the feeling it needs like 5 inches off, maybe 2, or 2.5 inches... But yea im looking for low and medium comfort, and great handling. Based on what I have read so far, it seems lowering springs/struts would be my best option.

    Everyone keeps mentioning AGX, why are they a favorite? would the tein-S springs lower decently? Im still stuck... Maybe coilovers are the better idea, i love to corner without feeling any roll, but since it's probably going to be my daily driver, springs/struts are the best. Okay then, I save money too.

    So KYB AGXs and Tein-S or Megans seem to fit my situation
    The thing about coilovers is that you can preserve your factory ride height if you wanted to. The Megan, D2, K-Sport, JIC, Tein, or other coilover setup can be adjusted to a fairly comfortable ride, at least in my opinion. If you want to corner without 'rolling' than you not only should be using coilovers, but you should also get a thicker set of anti-roll (sway) bars.

    Coilovers will outperform a Spring/AGX setup any day, trust me.

    Quote Originally Posted by blue8g View Post
    Are progressive rate springs designed for comfort used in coil-over applications?
    No.

  17. #37
    blue8g
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedGalant2k1 View Post
    No.
    I know. Thank you for proving my point.

    http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...-transfer.aspx

    and just read the text under the first pic
    Last edited by blue8g; 10-12-2010 at 02:12 PM

  18. #38
    You are here entirely tooo much!! RAZ_76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blue8g View Post
    I know. Thank you for proving my point.

    http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...-transfer.aspx

    and just read the text under the first pic
    Just like your posts, an error has occurred.

  19. #39
    blue8g
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    Link works for me

    from the article

    You could lower your car cheaply with lowering springs but typically these end up hurting your handling as almost every set we have ever tested is too low and too soft and the car bottoms under roll causing irregular handling. - Mike Kojima

  20. #40
    You are here entirely tooo much!! RAZ_76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blue8g View Post
    Link works for me

    from the article

    You could lower your car cheaply with lowering springs but typically these end up hurting your handling as almost every set we have ever tested is too low and too soft and the car bottoms under roll causing irregular handling. - Mike Kojima
    Yeah because what it says there is set in stone and absolutely true. You still believe in boogie man, do you?
    Last edited by RAZ_76; 10-12-2010 at 02:18 PM

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