Hey guys. About to do my first oil change by myself. Planning to buy jack stands tommorow, and an oil pan. Want to do it myself, got my oil already and wrench ready, plus time after class ready.
I've been trying to look around, even tried to use search but it keeps on not working... Goes into do=process and stays at blank screen, and I can't use it till 30 seconds later again, but that's not the point.
Can anyone provide a clear picture of where they go? I mean I looked around and they all say under or close to the lower control arm, but the last thing I wanna do is do it wrong. Plus with every car it's different.
Again please don't hate on the noob, or the fact that I haven't gotten to any of my other problems yet. Ugh. But any feedback is highly appreciated.
Along the side of the car you have the 'pinch welds' this is traditionally where most unibody cars are lifted (our cars are unibodies). If you look between the wheels, underneath the car you will see it. Look closer, now you will see two little " ^ ^ " notches, the jack or jack stand is technically supposed to be positioned there. You will be fine lifting here as long as you are close to those notches. You can also lift off the control arms or even the engine subframe also.
Ah that's what I was thinking, but originally in my mind I thought my 95 was too old for some reason heh. Thanks mate.
For oil changes I made a ramp out of 2X8's. I tried using metal ramps as found in auto parts stores but the Galant sits too low to use them; the front bumper facia rubbed against the metal ramps. To make a wooden ramp, cut a 45 degree angle on one end of a 2X8 that is about 24 inches long. This is the base of the ramp. Next cut a 45 degree angle on the end of an 18inch 2x8. Align the edges of the 2x8s oposite of the edges with the 45 degree angles and fasten them together (screw, nail or glue). Now cut a another 2x8 about 12 inchesd long and cut one edge so it has a 45 degree angle. Fasten this to the the other two 2x8s again aligning the edge opposite the 45 degree angle edge. You can add a fourth 2x8 if you need a bit more lift but for my car the extra 4.5 inches the three 2x8 give is enough for me to get the car high enough to slip an oil pan under it. It is a lot quicker to just set the ramps in front of the wheels and drive up on them rather than mess with a jack and jack stands. You can add a piece of 2x8 to the end of the ramp to act as a stop so you don't drive up and over the ramp if you want. You can make the ramp as tall as you need just by adding and fasteniing another board to it. You can use 2x6s instead of 2x8s to save a few bucks.
Last edited by eksz; 11-04-2010 at 06:14 AM
jjj
98 ES (5 spd), 94 GS (5 spd), 94 ES (rebuilt auto), 92 Toyota 4X4, 81 KZ550 A2, 67 Mercedes 250S, 58 Mercedes 190SL
Haha you just summarized a tutorial for making a perfect oil change ramp.
Thank you mate, I'll actually keep this on a log somewhere on my computer for later on, but I don't have the time to spare to make one atm, getting dangerously low on oil xD, but been working 24/7 literally so maybe when the next on is due, thanks again :D
What I do it jack the car up from the engine/trans cross member and the I normally slide the jack stand under the car to either where the control arms connect to the frame or I prefer putting them on the actual frame of the car under neather the seats. They are like 1 in tubes that go all the way down. Never had a problem putting them there. I hate putting a jack or a jack stand on the pinch weld because it tends to crush them and the it makes the car look kinda shitty IMHO. Hoope this helps.
^x2
thats exactly what i do
just look under the front bumper for the 2 big bolts that hold the crossmember on and jackk it up on those bolts.
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2002 Mitsubishi Galant GTZ
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