New Member with som Questions

[BLAZETIGER]

Hello everyone. Possible new Galant owner here. I have a family member offering me a 2001 Galant with 165,000 miles for 2.5k. Would like to get some feedback from owners as to how they like their rides?

How is the aftermarket support?
Any reliability concerns that I should look into? Problem spots?

Any recommendations regarding price point being offered are welcome. I'll take some time to explore this site in the meantime. Thanks in advance.

[keith6110]

The car overall is pretty reliable as long as its taken care of. The price of that Galant with that mileage is a bit high I think. Do you know if it's a v6 or an I4?

I love the way the galant feels on the road compared to a few other vehicles. It rides good and handles great.

There is pretty good aftermarket support and there are probably just as much unique parts for it through parts oem oversea's. (The galant oversea's come twin turbo and awd which is called a VR4) So all the oem parts on their cars work on our cars with minor modification.

I would say with that kind of mileage on the car, 1500-2000 would be reasonable. I wouldn't go any higher.

Most importantly, Welcome to TGC!

[GalantDreamer3455]

Well, I just paid 7K for my 2003 GTZ with 92000 miles. I love the car so far. Best riding car I have ever had!!! My brother has an 02 G with an I4 and that is what got me hooked on buying this one. I would say that if the car has been well maitnanced than go for it.


Welcome the TGC too.

[DTP]

I paid $2400 for mine a year and a half ago, with only 107k on it. It had flood damage (which we knew) but that is a non-issue for right now. No major problems so far, just the normal maintenance.

Have they changed the oil on time? What about all the other maintenance?

$1700 would be an okay price.

[BLAZETIGER]

The car overall is pretty reliable as long as its taken care of. The price of that Galant with that mileage is a bit high I think. Do you know if it's a v6 or an I4?

I would say with that kind of mileage on the car, 1500-2000 would be reasonable. I wouldn't go any higher.

Most importantly, Welcome to TGC!

Thank you for your input. The car is an I4. I'll see what I can do about pricing.

[BLAZETIGER]

I paid $2400 for mine a year and a half ago, with only 107k on it. It had flood damage (which we knew) but that is a non-issue for right now. No major problems so far, just the normal maintenance.

Have they changed the oil on time? What about all the other maintenance?

$1700 would be an okay price.

Doesn't seem like he has any maintenance records so can't vouch for on time oil changes.
:(

[joegalant]

2500? For a car wit 165k wtf is the world coming to.. Is it the same milage on motor trans?

[tamim13]

Drive the car and see if it shifts smoothly, especially, if you really push the car. Our auto transmissions are not that good, unless they have been maintained well (fluid changes).

Check if the heat and cooling works, we have problems with the heat not coming on when you turn the temperature all the way to heat.

Drive the car over a bad road patch and look for rattles from the suspension. Our suspensions don't last that well, especially ball joints and sway bar links

Turn the car all the way to the right and left and check if the steering has any play, our CV axles don't last long.

Check the stiffness of the struts/shocks.

Check the radiator for cracks, our radiators do tend to crack with that much mileage. Check the hoses as well, while you're there.

Check the brakes for a frozen caliper, our calipers are known to freeze if not maintained properly

Check the belts, alternator, battery etc. You will need a timing belt change (should be on the second timing belt/water pump by now), since you don't have maintenance records, it's risky

Check for oil/coolant leaks. It is known that with that many miles the oil drain plug/gasket can start leaking

Check the valve cover gasket, starts leaking at around 90K

Oxygen sensors went bad at around 120K.

Do a full code read on the car to see if there are any hidden codes that have not triggered the check engine light.

Check for the operation of all lights, cruise control, horn, interior lights/stereo etc.

Check for smooth idling, our IAC is known to go bad.

Personally, I would avoid an 8g with that many miles without maintenance records, unless your budget is tight and want a car that you can run to the ground. Do not try modding this car, as your maintenance costs are going to be high, if you want a reliable Daily Driver.

[BLAZETIGER]

That was a very informative post Tamim13. Thanks for the info. As much as I'd like to mod this car if I got it I'm pretty much looking for a daily driver to work and back. Only a 20 minute ride each way.

[BLAZETIGER]

Ended up buying the car for 2k. It's a 2001 ES. Some maintenance records available. Will be hitting the forums over the next few days reading up on it. Hope it runs good. Hope to deal / buy with some of the members here if podsible

[DTP]

Take to a good, reputable shop, and have them do a full checkup on it

[BLAZETIGER]

Take to a good, reputable shop, and have them do a full checkup on it

Going tomorrow. Hopefully nothing major.

[Reelax]

if it hasn't had it done allready, change timing belt... it should be changed every 60K miles. if it snaps or slips it will cost more than you paid for it to get it running again.

[BLAZETIGER]

Had the day off yesterday and finally got everything done. Local Mitsu dealership was running a "special" for oil change, code check, and full inspection for $70 so I bit. Below is the damage report:

Code: P0421
Left inner tie rod is loose
Transmission oil is very dark. Needs service/flush
Tires need replacing
Throttle body service/fuel system cleaning

Engine did pass compression/leak test (not sure what its called)
Timing belt had been replaced recently along with alternator, starter


After leaving there I went to another shop I had dealt with before to have it checked there (kind of like a second opinion). They verified the loose tie rod. They also did a fuel system cleaning along with the throttle body cleaning (they were having a special). Runs a whole lot smoother now. During this time they checked the codes and verified the P0421. They said they noticed a leak from the exhaust manifold as it's cracked so I need to find a replacement one (anyone have an idea where to get one or is someone selling one).

Since the car is from a relative we worked on the price and payment plan. Pretty much started at $2,300 but since it needs work I've been able to get the price down. Pretty much anything spent on repairs will be deducted from the total so I should end up paying less than 1k for the car. Hopefully not too bad as I do need a car at the moment to get to work.

Any input, thoughts or advice?

[BLAZETIGER]

Another quick dilemma: Car has 18 inch rims on it now, but the front left has a spacer on it because it was rubbing the caliper. For some reason the front right one isn't rubbing. Is this safe?

Should I throw some new 18 tires on them or should I get some new 15" tires as he gave me the stock steelies?

[shortdogg2k05]

Another quick dilemma: Car has 18 inch rims on it now, but the front left has a spacer on it because it was rubbing the caliper. For some reason the front right one isn't rubbing. Is this safe?

Should I throw some new 18 tires on them or should I get some new 15" tires as he gave me the stock steelies?

The question is what is causing it to rub on one side. I would put which ever set has better tires on the car.

[BLAZETIGER]

The question is what is causing it to rub on one side. I would put which ever set has better tires on the car.

Wish it was that simple as to which has better tires. The 18" are pretty worn down while the 15" wheels had been sitting outside apparently and are all cracked on the sidewall. A couple placed I've taken them to say they might have dry rot and that its better to have a tire with low thread than cracked sidewalls.