Unknown engine plug

**Stewi** · 12-03-2010, 08:21 PM

Originally Posted by Isaurio

Thanks stewi. I only swap the outlander mani. I will take a good look around the harness. It looks like the same plug the oil pressure switch uses.

See I wish I knew more about that year, on my 99' the oil pressure switch uses one of those black slide on blade style connectors, just like the one on the ground near the cam sensor and the connector on the starter.

**RedGalant2k1** · 12-03-2010, 08:46 PM

Give me a farther out picture and I can help better.

**Isaurio** · 12-04-2010, 06:28 PM

Here some more pics

Ok like a year ago I changed the engine. But the guy said is an 02 galant. But it could be a eclipse engine. Don't know anymore. That sensor threw me off.

**RedGalant2k1** · 12-04-2010, 06:59 PM

Does the vehicle have a check engine light on, or ever? Does it run rough? Any other warning lights come on

**SPD_FRK** · 12-04-2010, 07:15 PM

As far as I am aware...the 4cyl Galant never had a Knock Sensor on the ECU or Engine. That was one of the key reasons the Galant and Eclipse folks went to the Evo ECU besides being for a M/T setup and having the flash capability, it also had the Knock Sensor on the ECU.

This is a bit wierd though as you can simply plug a Knock Sensor into the back of the Block on the Galant and Eclipse to accomodate for the Evo ECU swap, however without the Evo ECU, neither the Galant or Eclipse ECUs hae a provision to even use the Knock Sensor. The OEM harness doesn't even have a connector for the Knock Sensor either, that has to be wired in seperate.

Hope that helps some...

**Isaurio** · 12-04-2010, 07:30 PM

Thanks SPD_FRK. My engine most be from a eclipse them. Yeah i dont find the connector on the 02 harness. UMM I do have a Evo ECU on hold but i will need the whole engine harness for this. RedGalant2k1-- no check engine light, A little rough tho. When i put it on reverse or drive it gets a little rough, motor mounts are OEM and only 6 month old.

I have another question. The oil light is driving my crazy already. Since i went to MOD the oil light comes on. I changed the oil pressure switch and still comes on. It comes off after 2000 RPM but it lights on below 1000 rpm. I changed the oil "synthetic blend 10w30" and it came off for about 3 weeks and them it came back on. I dont know what it could be. Any suggestions.

**Stewi** · 12-04-2010, 07:32 PM

you might have low oil pressure, which is serious

**Isaurio** · 12-04-2010, 07:37 PM

My mechanic checked the oil pressure and is reading about 4.8PSI on idle. what would be better 10w-30 or 5w-30?

**Stewi** · 12-05-2010, 12:45 AM

Originally Posted by Isaurio

My mechanic checked the oil pressure and is reading about 4.8PSI on idle. what would be better 10w-30 or 5w-30?

where did he measure it at? If he measured it at the port where the sensor goes, thats wayyyy low. Think about it like this, at idle, pressure at the filter housing is around 10-15psi, sometimes even a bit higher (when the oil is cold, its higher) that oil sensor port is only about 10" away from where the oil goes from the filter housing back into the block, its off a main oil galley. You should be seeing at least 10+ from that port at idle. In my car, I have 5-8psi of oil pressure at the head, at idle with the oil warm and the head has the lowest oil pressure of the entire engine.

I justed checked the FSM and its saying 5psi is the service limit, but i've never seen a car go that low at idle, thats insane.

**Stewi** · 12-05-2010, 01:01 AM

Ok just dug up all in info in the service manual

it says 4.2psi is the minimum service limit with the engine warmed up at idle (figure 600-800rpms give or take) and 43psi is the mininum at 3500RPMs. I would have your mechanic test the pressure with the engine at 3500RPMs and if its below 43psi, I would be looking for a new engine. If its still low, it could be the pump, but it could also be damaged bearing inside the engine thats allowing too much oil pressure to pass by, which creates less overall pressure in the system. This happens typically when you damage a crank or balance shaft bearing it creates a giant oil "leak" inside the engine which causes the pressure to drop drastically.

**Isaurio** · 12-06-2010, 12:52 PM

Originally Posted by Stewi

Ok just dug up all in info in the service manual

it says 4.2psi is the minimum service limit with the engine warmed up at idle (figure 600-800rpms give or take) and 43psi is the mininum at 3500RPMs. I would have your mechanic test the pressure with the engine at 3500RPMs and if its below 43psi, I would be looking for a new engine. If its still low, it could be the pump, but it could also be damaged bearing inside the engine thats allowing too much oil pressure to pass by, which creates less overall pressure in the system. This happens typically when you damage a crank or balance shaft bearing it creates a giant oil "leak" inside the engine which causes the pressure to drop drastically.

Thanks Stewi for looking that up. Yeah thats right we checked it at idle and it was good. about 4.5PSI. I will try to check it at 3500RPMs. I know when i changed the oil it the light was off for like 3 weeks. When I accelerate it comes off, when drops like about 800 RPM it comes on. Dam don't tell me my engine is Fuck up like that. :(.. My last thing is to check the oil dip stick on the oil pan. I have a brand new oil pump but that's some labor there since the timing belt needs to come off.

**Malcriaoxx** · 12-06-2010, 02:02 PM

Damn,isaurio take it to a few mechanics to see what they tell you.If anything talk to keith for maybe a new motor....

**Isaurio** · 12-06-2010, 02:18 PM

I'm not giving up on this engine yet. The last thing i will do it to change the oil pan it looks a lil bend inward. and check the oil dip stick. Last i will change the oil pump. If that does not let see what happens.

**Stewi** · 12-06-2010, 03:54 PM

Just make sure your not leaking anywhere. Low oil volume can lead to low pressure if its really that low. Take a pic of where the pan is bent. If its bent near the pickup tube, that could be restricting oil flow into the pump which could cause the pump to not be able to build enough pressure coming out.

**Isaurio** · 12-06-2010, 04:56 PM

Yes i will take a pic. now that i think carefully, it was bend before and the car was fine for over year with no light. The mechanic told me i should fix it because it could cause problems later on. He said he could fix it by taking it out and push it back out since OEM oil pan is about 180 dollars. When i took it to MOD about a month after i fix the oil pan that happen. Maybe he put the pan a lil wrong making the dip stick off position. Is bend again because when they was changing the timing belt and water pump the lifted\hold the engine by the oil pan. I found it stupid. But i will go back and double check that before i go more deep into it. The car runs good, a lil more power with the outlander and the diamante tb.

**Stewi** · 12-06-2010, 07:16 PM

Nah the dip stick tube goes into the block and the stick itself into the pan, you cant really put it on "wrong" so to speak.

When you lift the engine in the future, put a phone book between the jack and the pan and it wont bend.