Clutch issues

[mko]

how do you connect to your ECU? Please share with us. Is there a scan tool that does that in NZ?

Most likely you need an extended slave rod. I had that same problem, so did other members. You can try and put a 1/4 ratchet extension with a 8mm socket at the end and see what happens. With the extended rod youll most likely have to undo the master cyl. bolt and put it somewhere in the middle.

[galantlvr34]

how do you connect to your ECU? Please share with us. Is there a scan tool that does that in NZ?

Most likely you need an extended slave rod. I had that same problem, so did other members. You can try and put a 1/4 ratchet extension with a 8mm socket at the end and see what happens. With the extended rod youll most likely have to undo the master cyl. bolt and put it somewhere in the middle.

there is a scan tool that connects to the computer for obd2 engines to read and delete check engine lights.

[mko]

right, but I was talking about the 94-95 ECUs that have much closer error codes and diagnostics to JDM and Euro spec ECU.

[4-G-rim]

I read that you replaced everything associated with a clutch system. I read the suggestions but no one metioned if you lubed the shaft the throwour bearing sits on?

[bronxbombr]

sounds like you need to adjust your clutch pedal, bleed the clutch again, dbl check your parts for failure.

[mko]

does that sound familiar Bronx?

[7gvr4]

how do you connect to your ECU? Please share with us. Is there a scan tool that does that in NZ?

Most likely you need an extended slave rod. I had that same problem, so did other members. You can try and put a 1/4 ratchet extension with a 8mm socket at the end and see what happens. With the extended rod youll most likely have to undo the master cyl. bolt and put it somewhere in the middle.

I'm running a Link G4 storm ecu, all I should have to do is download the PClink firmware and connect with a USB cable.

I'm going to try and adjust it again, wouldn't be suprised if it is out of adjustment

[7gvr4]

Well still no dice, got in there with an oil can through the inspection hole and squirted some oil down there just in case but don't think it helped

[eksz]

I think it is probably just a clutch system adjustment issue. Let’s do a recap on your problem. You could not change gears and ultimately found out that your clutch was bad (spring was destroyed). You then replaced the clutch/pressure plate assembly, the clutch master, clutch slave cylinder, bled the clutch system, adjusted the clutch pedal free play but you still can’t put car into gear with the engine running. You also report that with the clutch pedal pressed to the floor, the car in gear the car hops around like the clutch pedal is released when you try and start it.
To be unable to shift into gear with the engine running or for the car to be hopping around when starting it in gear with the clutch pedal to the floor means the clutch is not being released. This makes me think the hydraulic fluid is not moving thru the system the way it is suppose to. You need the fluid to flow properly if the clutch fork is to move the throw out bearing into the pressure plate and release the clutch.

Watch the video MKO mentioned in his post (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw). I experienced similar problems when I changed my transmission. I could not believe the difference that just a few turns of the clutch master cylinder rod made. With 6 turns of the clutch rod I went from having a slipping clutch/no clutch situation to having a fully working clutch. If nothing else, just give adjusting the rod a try. Try turning it one way 2-4 rotations and see what happens. If no improvement try turning it another 2-4 turns the same direction as before and see what happens. Repeat once again if necessary. If no improvements try turning it back to where you started (you did keep track of the number of turns you made right?) Now try adjusting it the other way 2-4 turns and see what happens. Repeat and repeat again if necessary. Hopefully you see some improvement and will just have to fine tune it from there.

Did you have someone press the clutch while you under the car watch what the end of the shifter fork (that is outside of the bell housing) does? You already said that the end of the shifter fork is located in the middle of the opening (which is good) but now the question is, does it move, and if so, does it move all the way over and bump into the side of the bell housing? If so you may need to shim the shifter fork. There is a youtube video that discusses that. It is posted by the same guy who posted the video MKO provided a link to so just look at his other videos. Hopefully this is not the problem as it requires removal of the trans to shim.

[7gvr4]

Yeah the problem is i'm trying to do it by myself, I wound it in as far as I could tonight and wound it out from there trying it every turn or 2 which still didnt help

[mko]

i bet a longer slave cyl rod will fix it. read post 21 again. i had the same problem you are having.

the master cyl. isnt pushing enough fluid to move the slave rod. He said the master cyl bolt is already at the end of the push rod, so it cant go any further.

[7gvr4]

why now though, its been working fine in the past with that standard size slave cylinder rod

[Galant306m]

I'm wondering if he has a pull style cluch? If they are a little different there. Can you post a pic of your old clutch assembly for me?

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

[7gvr4]

it's just a normal evo 1 exedy 5 puck clutch

[mko]

The extended rod is just a patch for currently existing problems. Its preferred cuz its cheap. It could be from worn pedal assembly, to worn out master and slave cyls, worn pivot ball, clutch fork.

take pictures of the pedal and master cyl assembly and the slave cyl. We have to see whats goin on

[7gvr4]

The cars down at the mechanics now, I just don't have time to fix it with the four and rotary nats car show this weekend so we'll see what he says

Back on the subject of the engine check light, is it posible for it to come on if my battery is stuffed

[galantlvr34]

The cars down at the mechanics now, I just don't have time to fix it with the four and rotary nats car show this weekend so we'll see what he says

Back on the subject of the engine check light, is it posible for it to come on if my battery is stuffed

what do you mean by stuffed?do you mean corroded?

[7gvr4]

I mean that it fell over a couple of times and leaked abit acid, it also went flat over christmas and when I was charging it up it started making a fizzing noise just like when you open a bottle of coke, nothing was leaking out of it at the time though, I am going to replace it soon just wondering if possibly it's puting out to many amps or volts

[galantlvr34]

I mean that it fell over a couple of times and leaked abit acid, it also went flat over christmas and when I was charging it up it started making a fizzing noise just like when you open a bottle of coke, nothing was leaking out of it at the time though, I am going to replace it soon just wondering if possibly it's puting out to many amps or volts

oh yeah you deffinantly need a new battery,i would replace it as soon as you can.i dont think it could be putting out to many amps,it is probably just weak from leaking some acid out.

[mko]

the bubbling is from the acid, it means its being charged. If the starter turns then the battery is still good.