Galantman03's 8G Build

[Ivory8g]

First thing I think of is boost leak or fuel pressure regulator. What is your base fuel pressure?

[Galantman03]

I'll do that as well, boost leak test.
Base fuel pressure is 40psi with vac line disco'd. Regulator is good, manually checked it by porting 30psi into it, it gives me 70psi of fuel pressure at 30lbs of boost


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[mko]

im pretty sure evos run on 43.5psi of fuel pressure and the IAT as a part of speed density, determines the AFRs.

Is your ROM set for a 5 bar sensor? IDK how the evo ecu determines that, because in DSM ecu I can choose from 3,4 and 5 bar sensors. Each one of them will have different voltage output

[Galantman03]

yeah I meant to say 43.5 psi lol, and yes the rom is setup to use the 5 bar, he tried it on another dudes car, and it works great. I'm going lean up top with load, and I have a massive fuel system..... wtf...

[OMEGA PHX]

From what I've read, boost leaks don't have a big effect on speed density cars. Have you checked the fuel pumps or circuitry under load lately?

[Galantman03]

Pumps are hardwired in. I'm beginning to think my full blown unit sucks dick. Just because I have pressure on the fuel system doesn't mean that I have volume that I need. Hmmm

[mko]

In most cases if there's consistent pressure there will be volume too. Any way you can monitor fuel pressure while you drive? If it drops out then you have to look into the fuel system - kinked lines, wiring, faulty pumps ....

You said the pumps are hardwired, hardwired how and to what?

What size do you use for the feed and return lines?

[Galantman03]

Relay is triggered and the pumps get volts from battery. 10 an feed 8 an return 2000cc injectors 2 dw 320lph pumps...
Lines are not kinked

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[Ivory8g]

Sometimes those dw pumps just fail hard. You sure both of them are getting enough voltage under high load. If not they won't switch to high flow mode and lean out up top will happen. Typically 4k rpm and up.

[Galantman03]

They are directly 4 feet away from the battery, with the DW rewire kit. fuses aren't popping or nothing. I can't really drive the car under load and check the volts being drawn lol.
I just need an idea on what to check next really Its either the pumps of the full blown thing is choking it... I'm thinking a pump but idk. They should be under warranty correct?

[Ivory8g]

Yeah I had to check voltage on an evo once like that haha. Yeah and it should definitely be under warranty still

[Silvertune]

No mechanical problem will stem your issues if I'm understanding your setup correct. A bad hobbs switch killing your pumps when they're supposed kick could but you say both of your are hardwired to run constantly. But nothing else could cause a brick wall at 0 vac. Also most hobbs switches are set to kick at 10psi or so anyway, again I'm assuming you hardwired both to go full on all the time. Although I will add, the full blown double pumpers are literally the lowest quality senders you could run, you will have to replace it something in the next year if you're going to keep dual pumps. I've seen it happen to pretty much everyone who runs them. They're held together with JB weld! And JB weld + E85....

The ECU isn't seeing something, you're probably lucky you're getting the knock sensor and IAT codes, the other problems are not going to be so obvious. Sounds to me like the MAP sensor isn't reading correctly; when it starts to read more than atmospheric something is going wrong electrically and borking the ECU. I would log the basics while you instigate the problem. If something is shorting bad it'll show up in some way shape or form in the spread sheet.

Edit: Namely, log your injector pulse width. That will tell you exactly if it's the ECU leaning it out of the lack of pump.

[Galantman03]

Yes, both are wired to be on all the time. I logged the map sensor when I did a boost leak test up to 33 psi. It was about 2 psi higher then the boost gauge, and everything seemed g2g. I think I still have that log.

I was going to get a squash performance dp but they don't make one for the gsx...

So are you saying that I might have just a bad ecu? I followed the conversion chart to the evo 8 harness to the t, granted I got rid of alot of wires, but everything for signal is still there. I metered the entire harness 5 +times.
So what exactly should I log then? Also what should my pulse width be at?

I was going to go into 0 vac tonight and go pro my fuel pressure gauge, while logging some important items, but I don't think I'm going to fix what I found tonight on the car for about a week.....

Also the last MAP that Tom gave me for fuel is rated for a 1100 whp fuel map set up, and it I have issues with that, IDK what to do..

[Silvertune]

Where they should be depends entirely on the setup, but if it's getting leaner the higher your rev or more into boost you get then IF it were an account of the injector duty cycle the cycle would either stay the same or barely be increasing with the load. Given that this crossover is at the boosting point, I believe it's engine management related because as I said before even with bum fuel parts there won't be a clean but line necessarily that the problems begin to show face.

For what it's worth maybe you do have a bad ECU, while I'm not expert on your thread I know you're had more than your fair share of electrical gremlins and one of them may very well have damaged the ECU. If you want a budget fix grab an 01-05 Eclipse GS ECU and flash your ROM on it and see what happens. It's the same as the Evo ECU.

I still suspect its the wiring though. Unfortunately having the wiring right at the ECU doesn't necessarily mean the car is wired correctly. I've seen (I hate always saying that but it's the only way I can start a sentence) a lot of really weird electrical shenanigans with these things, a lot of them stemming from off kilter grounds or sharing circuit feed sources. It's also very possible the ECU is kicking into a limp mode when it starts to see boost as a reaction to not having a knock sensor or an IAT. The IAT is a major component in SD tuning, it's not like running a MAF where it accounts for a +/- 3-5% in fueling, it can be a 20% difference in speed density. The ECU just might not know what to do without it. Limp mode shows up in different strains when you get into built stuff like this, what for you is a major lean condition could be the ECU dumping a preset amount of fuel as it saw fit in stock form but with the bigger injectors it doesn't really open them because it doesn't call on the ECUFlash set latencies and what not in limp mode. The same way that unplugging the MAF in the V6 cars with a 3.8 swap blows through a quarter tank of gas in 10 miles (no joke) but if you do it to a stock V6 it runs almost stock. It's not logical anymore, crazy things happen.

I didn't see it mentioned, did this problem just start of was it there from first startup?

[Galantman03]

Alright Justin, thanks for taking the time to explain. It would be nice if it was the ecu. I just downloaded the evo circuit diagram and I'm going to go over it. As far as it showing up, to me it just happened, but I haven't been WOT yet until last week to see it. I had to see why I was getting knock at 2,500 rom, my damn subframe is loose! no balance shafts in a solid mounted motor is no joke! Gotta figure out a way to keep the nuts from backing off, might try lock washers and lock tight. safety wire might be the only option lol.

[xd_01]

it would be hard to safety wire a stud but you could try to double nut. Those subframe studs seem pretty long so many you could fit back to back nuts.

[Isaurio]

Good progrese. SD. 2000cc injectors are a pain, pain to tune. Ones you go above 1200cc injector gets very unstable specially with hot cams. Ecu cant re-adjust like silvertune says. SD means static u have to tell the ecu what to do. Is a table to tune ratio on the fuel side.

To test, just adjust your high low fuel map. Let say 120load + 2500k rpm. Adjust like 10 AFR all that row and column. Do a pull and check wide band afr match your AFR. If u see lean it means more injector tune. There are more tables that adjust fuel that are not define. Is the scaling right. I mean is a 2.5 motor right? Evom there is a whole thread about injector tune and tables above 1200cc.

[Silvertune]

Oh yeah 2.4 no balance shafts, solid mounts. The subframe bolts are going to be one of many that come lose again and again. I'd red loctite anything you don't intend to pull off regularly.

[Galantman03]

Good progrese. SD. 2000cc injectors are a pain, pain to tune. Ones you go above 1200cc injector gets very unstable specially with hot cams. Ecu cant re-adjust like silvertune says. SD means static u have to tell the ecu what to do. Is a table to tune ratio on the fuel side.

To test, just adjust your high low fuel map. Let say 120load + 2500k rpm. Adjust like 10 AFR all that row and column. Do a pull and check wide band afr match your AFR. If u see lean it means more injector tune. There are more tables that adjust fuel that are not define. Is the scaling right. I mean is a 2.5 motor right? Evom there is a whole thread about injector tune and tables above 1200cc.

The latest map I have no room to add anymore fuel. Its giving it all its got lol

it would be hard to safety wire a stud but you could try to double nut. Those subframe studs seem pretty long so many you could fit back to back nuts.

not really, just drill through the nut, and bam. But I think I'm going to go double or triple nut with lock tight. only time the front frame will come out is when I repaint it.5

Oh yeah 2.4 no balance shafts, solid mounts. The subframe bolts are going to be one of many that come lose again and again. I'd red loctite anything you don't intend to pull off regularly.

I know...

[underated]

you could try stover/c nuts and loctite for the subframe