Galantman03's 8G Build

[RedGalant2k1]

Got it, I had a feeling that's what you meant. Scrub radius is actually were the center of the tires contact patch intersect with the axis of your rotating suspension, so when you said inside outside I got a little confused and had to look it up to be sure.

Anyway Im never good with numbers Im the type that has to draw it out to get a visual and that's what I did with your two different wheel specs. It all sounds good to me but in the grand scheme 2mm isn't much but better then nothing. You still have to account for side wall movement at high speeds and all that but good work so far I don't think anyone here has taking it this far when comes to calculating wheel fitment.

The real test is a road test but you can simulate it just by putting the car on stands, removing the coil from your dampner and using a floor jack to raise your suspension arm up as high is it can go then turn your wheel to full lock and see where it comes close to hitting. This what I did to the my rears when I rolled the 1/4's. Only difference was I only had to disconnect the coilover from the lower mount so much easier. I was actually to lazy to do this on the front suspension lol.

Also 15 mm spacer on extended ARP studs may be to close for comfort in my opinion. I my set up with a 10mm I don't have much thread sticking out and my lugs are regular short steel lugs.

I don't believe there would (or should be) significant concern with sidewall flex/movement. Especially considering the tires being used, they would certainly have minimal deflection at speed as a result of a stiff casing and bead filler (aka construction).

[6G72gearhead]

I can make my tread surface move as far as 15 mm at its point of contact with the ground. This translates to around 4 mm at the top of the tire. This is with very stiff sidewalls and a bunch of air pressure.

If you are going to push the car this should be accounted for.

[Galantman03]

I think I'm going to shoot for 10mm of clearance all around.

Does anybody know the gauge of the metal, specifically the triangular pieces beneath the headlights? I need to match or get thicker metal for that. heck while I'm making the tires fit, might as well pull the motor, and just finish shaving the bay.

[kylecanthurdle]

I think I'm going to shoot for 10mm of clearance all around.

Does anybody know the gauge of the metal, specifically the triangular pieces beneath the headlights? I need to match or get thicker metal for that. heck while I'm making the tires fit, might as well pull the motor, and just finish shaving the bay.

you mean the rad support?

[Galantman03]

OK so I have finally got around to fitting the wheels on the front. Here are some known issues

This pinch weld area will have to be bent, I'm leaning towards the door, but haven't got a good look at it.


The other issue is this point. What I plan on doing is getting rid of the entire piece, making it flow smoothly.


I bought a replacement rad support that I was going to make removable. The only piece that really needs to be replaced is the bottom portion where the rad slides in. To make this removable and still retaining some strength, I'm going 1.75 chromoly tubing for the bottom portion, making it bolt removable to make removing the engine way easier.

But I still need to make the top portion removable and still go in the same spot everytime

I'm thinking about using a latch system underneath, but don't know for sure, I'm actually looking for options, and need some opinions.
Any thoughts?

[CHICAGO_ONE]

Not sure if this helps, but I've always liked the way this guy made his bash bar and things removable:






His thread is here:
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=573579

Edit: I think I misunderstood your intention. My apologies. Maybe that reference will help with other projects


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[xd_01]

I gauged the metal the other day and forgot to post, my bad. The piece that lays horizontal behind the headlight was 20 gauge metal. I think that's what you were talking about.

I also had an issue with that lip in front of the tire that the fender liner bolts to, I just hammered it flat.

I don't follow why you need a new rad support, is it to help fit the wheels or make pulling the engine more simple, or just repairing rust?

[Galantman03]

Not sure if this helps, but I've always liked the way this guy made his bash bar and things removable:

Edit: I think I misunderstood your intention. My apologies. Maybe that reference will help with other projects


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Dude no that helps! just need to figure out what those attachment points are called.

I gauged the metal the other day and forgot to post, my bad. The piece that lays horizontal behind the headlight was 20 gauge metal. I think that's what you were talking about.

I also had an issue with that lip in front of the tire that the fender liner bolts to, I just hammered it flat.

I don't follow why you need a new rad support, is it to help fit the wheels or make pulling the engine more simple, or just repairing rust?

I think I'll go 18, a little thicker doesn't hurt strength wise. Hammering it flat might work, hmm Ill have to check, that would save so much time. I won't be running any fender liners at all.

I need a new bottom portion as I bent it so bad my intercooler doesn't line up at all any more, and because it was bent after I painted everything, the rust is getting to it pretty bad haha.

[xd_01]

Gotchya that sucks but something tubular would be a great idea.

If you do hammer it down be patient and do it slow, it may be weak enough to crack if it gets wacked to hard.

[Galantman03]

So it looks like this pinch weld will be getting bent in.


I will have to redo this area. This isn't even at full lock.


Nor does it have any body roll


Toying around with the fender issue. looks like I have to move it out 1.75 inches.


Possible relief cuts


I really don't feel like cutting these fenders up, so I might go to the junk yard and see if I can find some. I'm wondering if fiberglass fenders would be worth it. I'm pretty good with glass, and I'm good with metal, but I don't have any shaping tools to the the roundness of the fenders to match the oem curve.

[xd_01]

Wow theres alot of work involved there. Folding over that mounting tab isnt gonna cut it your probaly gonna have to cut and tub that section.
Or just bash it in with a big hammer, but that is also the support for the strut tower so I personaly wouldnt do that. I had thought about spacing out the fenders too on my car but 1.75 is alot. I was just gonna slice open the mounting holes so that I couls slide the fender out a lil and not have to much of a gap between the fender and hood but that would never work with 1.75" . Atleast I dont think.

Either way starting with junk yard fenders is a great idea first thing should be to set your desired ride height if you havent done so already.You might not need to so much work in ghe fender wells after all.

GL

[8thLS6]

This feels like deja vu from a build I'm watching on youtube http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VCrWA2sJjPg and vlogs 9 and 10 follow that

[Galantman03]

So I went to the local pick and pull. I got lucky. We never have galants here and they had 3.



Fitting and looking





Looking at it some more



I liked this alot more


Getting ready to slit cut everything


Here we go







Some close pics of the bottom portion






Any questions?

[mko]

what are you gonna do for the bumper/fender difference? some sort of custom wide arch or...? And the same question in regard of the rocker panel difference? Do you have a side skirt there or not?

it looks great so far? keep it up!

[coconut]

Wow nice work. Cant wait to see it finished.

[xd_01]

Man you work fast! Looks great did you leave it tack or you fully welded it. I know thin metal is hard to weld, I usually blow through it since I have no patience lol.

[Galantman03]

what are you gonna do for the bumper/fender difference?

I'm saving that for last, that way I can bang out both sides of the bumper. As far as what I'm going to do? I have no idea yet.

And the same question in regard of the rocker panel difference? Do you have a side skirt there or not?

I have side skirts on, so I have to bring out the skirts as well lol. Alot of work, but I don't like wacked body lines. I'm trying to keep everything looking like stock but moved out 2 inches.

Wow nice work. Cant wait to see it finished.

Thanks man!

Man you work fast! Looks great did you leave it tack or you fully welded it. I know thin metal is hard to weld, I usually blow through it since I have no patience lol.

I should have taken more pics, but it was fully tacked inside and out, I didn't bother tacking the finger cuts though, as that will give the fiberglass more "bite" to hold on to. I hate welding sheet metal. I had to jump around while tacking to keep it from warping. after tacking I did a final pass with a flap wheel to bring everything in and smooth it, then I decided it was good enough to glass. AS of right now I think the thickest is like 1/8 inch not bad, and it stiffened up the fender a crap ton. Feels like oem fender now.

[CHICAGO_ONE]

Damn. Nice work. It's awesome to see someone that's not afraid to go the extra mile to build the car they truly want.


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[Techn0Nut1996]

Nice! I can't wait to see the final result!

[Galantman03]

Looks like Ill be doing two different fenders to see which one I will like better. My original plan looks good, but what I was going to do to tie in the door and fender won't really work. When the door swings out, I have 1 inch of clearance. That's all good, but I gotta figure out how to make something flush with the fender on the door, but yet allow me to open the door all the way. (puts on thinking cap)