Is my timing belt hydraulic tensioner faulty?

[mygalantwasfree]

Hey guys,

I was doing some work on my car today involving the removal and inspection of the timing belt and roller bearings when I came across something funny.

With the tensioner pulley bolt loose, I was able to move the pulley freely with my hand from all the way slack to all the way taught. I could see the hydraulic tensioner moving effortlessly with the pulley.

Does this indicate a faulty tensioner? Isn't it supposed to be difficult for me to move the pulley to the "slack" position? I'm thinking about dropping $80 for a new one. Just wanted to see what you guys thought. Thanks!

[galantlvr34]

how many miles are on the car?and have you replaced the idler pullies and tensioners on it before?

[mygalantwasfree]

how many miles are on the car?and have you replaced the idler pullies and tensioners on it before?

137,500 miles on the engine. I replaced just the timing belt at 117k. I pulled the bearings out today and they all seemed in great condition. The hydraulic cylinder seems to be completely frozen. I can't get it to move at all by hand.

I have never replaced the tensioner, and I don't think it's been replaced since the 60k service interval.

[galantlvr34]

so the auto tensioner wont move?i would probably replace it just be safe because the engines on these cars are interference.

[mygalantwasfree]

The plunger on the tensioner seems to be in the fully "taught" position. I can't push the plunger back in at all. I tried with a pair of vice grips, but couldn't move it. Apparently the small hole in the plunger should be aligned with the two holes on the housing when the tensioner is "slack". Is it normal for me to be unable to push the tensioner in by hand?

[galantlvr34]

you should be able to move it to line up the hole in the tensioner.

[mygalantwasfree]

Ok. I'm going to re-install the old tensioner with the timing belt to do a test. My idea here is to leave the tensioner pulley bolt loose. In theory, the hydraulic tensioner should automatically push on the tensioner pulley and take the slack out of the belt all by itself. If it does, and the belt tension is within spec from the Haynes Manual, the tensioner works. Would this be a fair test?

[Galanttuner10]

do you want to jump timing and cause very expensive issues if it fails? you should be able to make the 2 holes line up then put a pin in the hole but its better to replace it. its 81.49 at extremepsi.com and then 7.50 handling fee. part number MD308086

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/cust...cat=865&page=1

[mygalantwasfree]

do you want to jump timing and cause very expensive issues if it fails? you should be able to make the 2 holes line up then put a pin in the hole but its better to replace it. its 81.49 at extremepsi.com and then 7.50 handling fee. part number MD308086

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/cust...cat=865&page=1

Haha sorry, I didn't clarify very well. I definitely wasn't trying to turn the engine over while testing this!! I was just going to let my setup "sit" for a little while. I have been told that some hydraulic tensioners are a little slow. If the tensioner is working properly, then within about an hour after reinstalling the timing belt and tensioner, I should expect to find the tensioner pulley in the "taught" position, and the timing belt taught. I can measure belt slack with a ruler, given slack specifications in the Haynes manual. If the belt slack is within spec, then it should check out, and the tensioner is working. If not, then it should be replaced.

(I must explain that I am very cheap with $$$. I just want to be absolutely sure that the tensioner is gone before I replace it)

[Galanttuner10]

what does the haynes manual call for slack as i have the shop manuals for these car just wanting to see if haynes is right.

[Galanttuner10]

the mitsu book says to check the auto tensioner by applying 22-44 lbs of force while pressing it against something metal and it should only move about 1mm. if it moves more or not at all replace it. you are supposed to compress the tensioner in a vice until the 2 marks line up then put a pin in it then once its reintalled you pull the pin.

[mygalantwasfree]

what does the haynes manual call for slack as i have the shop manuals for these car just wanting to see if haynes is right.

That is a very good question. I actually can't find the specification in the book right now, but I know I've looked it up in the past. As I recall, I think the Haynes book told me that the belt should not give any more than 1/4 of an inch while pressing on the middle of the belt between the camshaft sprocket and the oil pump sprocket.

You know, it's a wise idea to double-check Hayne's Repair manuals. This leads me to my next predicament:

In addition to inspecting my timing system tonight, I am also trying to remove the lifters and clean the "gunk" out of them. (I had bad valve tick and I was tired of hearing it). I am having a bit of confusion following the Hayne's manual:

1994-2003 Galant Haynes Repair manual rocker arm bolt tightening sequence:
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/140...rockerarms.png

My engine's rocker arm bolts:
http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/2...rockerarms.jpg

I loosened the two outer bolts on each end of the exhaust rocker-arm mechanism 1/4 turn on the exhaust side before I realized that the manual was totally wrong. Mass confusion and anger followed this realization. In the Haynes manual, both the intake and exhaust rocker arms have a total of 5 bolts. On my engine, I have 5 bolts on the intake side and 8 on the exhaust side.

Do you think I damaged / warped something while loosening the intake rocker arm outer 2 bolts 1/4 turn? Does anyone know what the proper tightening / loosening sequence is for my engine?

[Galanttuner10]

the auto tensioner sets the slack automatically, if it doesnt do its job there is a chance of the belt jumping time and causing many issues. mitsu did an auto tensioner to automatically adjust to the timing belt stretching over time.

[mygalantwasfree]

the auto tensioner sets the slack automatically, if it doesnt do its job there is a chance of the belt jumping time and causing many issues. mitsu did an auto tensioner to automatically adjust to the timing belt stretching over time.

Gotcha. Did you see the picture links I posted? I can't figure out what the tighten/loosening sequence is for my rocker arm bolts. The haynes manual claims that I have five bolts holding the intake rocker arms in, but from my picture I clearly have eight. Do you know the tightening / loosening sequence for my engine? I've just been completely alienated from Haynes repair manuals, and I don't trust it anymore.

[Galanttuner10]

now may i ask what you were doing in the cylinder head?

[mygalantwasfree]

now may i ask what you were doing in the cylinder head?

My intention is to remove my hydraulic valve lifters (they're making a huge racket. tick, tick tick. Seafoam oil treatment doesn't seem to help.) and immerse them in a cleaning solution to remove any oily sludge inside them.

[Galanttuner10]

my 94 and 96 manual dont have anything on the rocker arm sequence in depth only thing it says is to remove rocker arm shaft and rocker arms from the exhaust side first. then the intake side. nothing about specific order at all

[Galanttuner10]

im gonna take a picture of the page with the removal order again noting specific

[Galanttuner10]

[mygalantwasfree]

Thanks for the upload! I don't see why it would be important enough to mention the loosening sequence in the Haynes book, but not in other books. So does it not matter the order the bolts are loosened?