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Thread: Clutch slipping

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  1. #1

    Clutch slipping

    I have a 1996 Galant S, 300 some miles after replacing my master clutch cylinder, my clutch started slipping. It's pretty bad now, I can throw the car in 1st or even 4th gear, let the clutch out and the car won't stall. I can drive my car like an automatic at stop lights. So it looks like I'm going to have to get a whole new clutch kit.
    I called the local Napa and this is what they quoted me:
    New Clutch Kit - $175
    Machine Flywheel - $30 - 75
    Labor - $550
    Total + Tax - 807.03


    Is this a reasonable quote?

    I don't know how to do this fix myself and I'm not sure it's something I really want to try without someone there to show me what I need to do. I know a few people who may be able to help, two people who will do it cheaper than the shop and one who will help me (this doesn't include resurfacing the flywheel though). Is this fix simple enough that you'd pay someone rather than a shop to do it?

    So since my clutch is shot and I'm going to have to fix it, I was thinking on upgrading it while I'm at it, so if I can save money on labor I can afford to get something better put in. Anyone have any suggestion for a good clutch kit for a 7g? Maybe a 2g clutch kit that will fit?

  2. #2
    You are here entirely tooo much!! 4-G-rim's Avatar
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    You can definitely save some money with replacing your clutch. From the quote they are giving you...they are raping you with the clutch kit and labor.

    For the price of the clutch they are quoting you which is probably a OEM clutch kit you can get yourself a ACT street type of clutch or maybe even a Exedy stage 1 kit or Clutchnet equivalent. If you are looking to save some money..you can get a brand new Exedy/Dankin OEM clutch for less than $100 on ebay.

    You can use a clutch for any 2g FWD (4G63 equipped) application...90-99 Eclipse/Talons clutch disc will work with 7g Galants and Pressure plates. Only difference will be the flywheel..AWD are different than FWD, and also you will need a 7bolt flywheel.

    $500 for labor is pretty high...unless you can do it yourself with maybe a friend to help lower and mount the tranny, you can probably find a reputable DSM'er locally that will usually do it alot cheaper. I stress REPUTABLE dsm'er...that has a repuation of good work.

    While you are replacing the clutch you should also get Throwout bearing (Preferably genuwine Mitsubishi), clutch fork and fulcrum ball, slave cylinder, and depending how old the car is replace the clutch master cylinder, and new fluid. If you got the extra money, go ahead and upgrade to a stainless steel clutch line.

    Good luck

    1991 Galant VR4 1948/2000_________1996 Galant "S" 5 speed 2.4L turbo

  3. #3
    TGC Regular eclipsh's Avatar
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    Just to rule out some stuff, did you adjust your new master cylinder correctly?
    If you haven't already, crawl under the car and see if you can compress your slave cylinder just using your hands. If you can't you've got pedal pump which causes pressure to always stay in the system. It probably isn't enough pressure to cause this but with your clutch slipping shortly after you did the master cylinder job it is worth checking.

    As to the clutch job, pulling a standard tranny on a FWD car isn't too bad. It is messy and time consuming but not overly complex. Expect to spend a full day, maybe two the first time you do it. Being impatient and not following all the steps will be your most likely cause of messing anything up. The three ways you can really screw things up are:

    1) Not using a torque wrench.
    2) Not following the tightening pattern for the clutch.
    3) Hanging the tranny from the input shaft while it is being put back in.

    Just relax, take your time, and follow the service manual. If you feel tired and impatient stop and have a soda, maybe a snack, then get back to it. Having a buddy to help and some good music makes it a lot easier to take your time and have fun too.

    EDIT: While you have the tranny out do yourself a favor and check for wiggle in the input shaft. It shouldn't move in/out or side to side at all. If it does your bearings are worn and you'll want to consider a tranny rebuild.

    Also, if you have any questions while you're doing it I'll be happy to give pointers. I will tell you up front that pulling the passenger side axle out can be a bear. It is hard to get anything in to pry it out. My easiest method is to use a cold chisel (or any wedge) to stick in between the axle cup and the housing and just give it a good tap with a mallet. That usually pops it out.
    Last edited by eclipsh; 03-08-2011 at 11:01 AM
    - Nick, 94 Galant ES - 4G64 DOHC Turbo AWD, E3-16G & Manifold, 780cc inj, fmic, DS-MAP Speed Density

    "Ignorance more frequently begets confidence than does knowledge..." - Charles Darwin

  4. #4
    yeah i would check to make sure the clutch is adjusted right and you might have air in your lines to so try bleeding it out first.

  5. #5
    here go over the stuff on here first and see what happens.
    https://www.thegalantcenter.org/show...ghlight=clutch

  6. #6
    TGC Regular eclipsh's Avatar
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    Air in your lines will not make your clutch slip it will make it do the opposite. Air in the lines will make it so the clutch will not disengage.
    - Nick, 94 Galant ES - 4G64 DOHC Turbo AWD, E3-16G & Manifold, 780cc inj, fmic, DS-MAP Speed Density

    "Ignorance more frequently begets confidence than does knowledge..." - Charles Darwin

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by eclipsh View Post
    Air in your lines will not make your clutch slip it will make it do the opposite. Air in the lines will make it so the clutch will not disengage.
    ok but he can make sure the clutch is adjusted right like in the link i posted.yeah that is true but if he thought it wasnt coming back as fast as it should or if he thought the pedal felt kind of weak it could have air in it.

  8. #8
    You are here entirely tooo much!! Galanttuner10's Avatar
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    In his link click my link about the pump up mode if the master is adjusted too far out.
    2014 Lancer Evo GSR
    1996 Galant S 5 Speed Turbo
    Need a Turbo rebuilt or upgraded--> http://www.thegalantcenter.org/showt...ebuild-Service

  9. #9
    TGC Regular eclipsh's Avatar
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    - Nick, 94 Galant ES - 4G64 DOHC Turbo AWD, E3-16G & Manifold, 780cc inj, fmic, DS-MAP Speed Density

    "Ignorance more frequently begets confidence than does knowledge..." - Charles Darwin

  10. #10
    Thanks for all the advice, I was able to determine that I had air in my system and that my slave cylinder was leaking and needed to be replaced as well but after replacing that and bleeding the clutch so there was no more air in the lines, I am still having the same issue and I'm just about positive my clutch is shot and needs to be replaced.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by SiônRo88 View Post
    Thanks for all the advice, I was able to determine that I had air in my system and that my slave cylinder was leaking and needed to be replaced as well but after replacing that and bleeding the clutch so there was no more air in the lines, I am still having the same issue and I'm just about positive my clutch is shot and needs to be replaced.
    try and follow the video of adjusting the clutch and adjust the rod and see if that helps.

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