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Thread: Check Engine Light after CAI install

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  1. #1

    Check Engine Light after CAI install

    Ok... I will start by saying I put the short ram portion of the Injen intake on the 2.4L. I got the resonator out but lost day light before I could get the other part of the cold air intake on. It sounds AWESOME... I hear the growl and a little tiny whistle/hiss underneath... almost sounds like a turbo but not quite as loud. Performance is good... etc.

    But now... the check engine light is on. I followed instructions I found here http://club4g.org/board/eclipse-perf...-cai-help.html regarding resetting/relearning the ecu after installing the CAI. But I thought the light would have gone off. However... I forgot to plug the harness back into the MAF sensor at first when I turned the key to "on" and waited the 2 minutes and I remembered... wait... I should hear a clicking. So I turned the key back to off... went back under the hood and plugged it back in. Then I restarted the process.

    Turned the key to "on" and waited for 2 minutes. Turned it to off for 10 seconds. Then turned the car on and let it idle for 10 minutes. Turned the car off for 10 seconds. Then took the car for a 20 mile drive (about 30-40 minutes) and drove normal. Then after that I opened her up a bit to listen. I think it sounds good, I don't think there's leaks but like I said the check engine light is still on.

    Is it because I forgot to plug the harness in the first time I started to reset/relearn the ECU? Do I need to go back and unplug the battery for awhile again tomorrow and then redo the process?

    Isn't there a way to make it go off or... did I forget to do something? What? Any help? It's getting a little late so... tomorrow morning I'll go out and take a recording so you guys can hear. I'm 99.9% there are no leaks anywhere and it's all solid. But I guess I'll double check tomorrow. Unless that isn't causing the check engine light?

    Let me know please.

    Effort and courage are not enough, without purpose and direction.

  2. #2
    Disconnect the battery, CEL will delete itself. If CEL is on then you have a problem.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Gotti View Post
    Disconnect the battery, CEL will delete itself. If CEL is on then you have a problem.
    Just disconnect the battery? Don't do the relearn/reset on the ECU?

    Effort and courage are not enough, without purpose and direction.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by tr1kst4nce View Post
    Just disconnect the battery? Don't do the relearn/reset on the ECU?
    you are going to have to drive it for around 90 miles for the computer to reset itself.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by galantlvr34 View Post
    you are going to have to drive it for around 90 miles for the computer to reset itself.
    Hmmmm.. I should probably wait til then before I have the catback made for it huh? Unless theres no sensors with the exhaust that would cause a light to come on?

    Effort and courage are not enough, without purpose and direction.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by tr1kst4nce View Post
    Hmmmm.. I should probably wait til then before I have the catback made for it huh? Unless theres no sensors with the exhaust that would cause a light to come on?
    well if the light doesnt go off get it scanned and see what the code is.there are oxygen sensors but the light shouldnt come on for them.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by galantlvr34 View Post
    well if the light doesnt go off get it scanned and see what the code is.there are oxygen sensors but the light shouldnt come on for them.
    galantlvr34 - Where are you getting your information from? 90 miles?

    A failing oxygen sensor will throw a CEL. They are some of the most common P codes. Familiarize yourself... http://www.obd-codes.com/p0135

    Also check my sig for some advice.


    tr1k - Forgetting to reconnect the MAF sensor will cause the check engine light to come on if you start the car. The easiest thing to do is disconnect the battery for 20-30 minutes. Reconnect it, and start the car. If the light comes back on, then you still have some type of malfunction. If not, you are good to go.

    Remember that disconnecting/reconnecting the battery will cause the car to idle and shift a little funny for a short time. This is normal, as the computer is relearning how the car needs to idle, shift, etc as you drive it.

    If you post stupid and incorrect information, you will get red nuggets.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by polishmafia View Post
    galantlvr34 - Where are you getting your information from? 90 miles?

    A failing oxygen sensor will throw a CEL. They are some of the most common P codes. Familiarize yourself... http://www.obd-codes.com/p0135

    Also check my sig for some advice.


    tr1k - Forgetting to reconnect the MAF sensor will cause the check engine light to come on if you start the car. The easiest thing to do is disconnect the battery for 20-30 minutes. Reconnect it, and start the car. If the light comes back on, then you still have some type of malfunction. If not, you are good to go.

    Remember that disconnecting/reconnecting the battery will cause the car to idle and shift a little funny for a short time. This is normal, as the computer is relearning how the car needs to idle, shift, etc as you drive it.
    thats what you have to drive for the computer to completely reset itself.like say if he had to get the car inspected and the light is on in order to know if it would pass he would have to get the code cleared and drive it for 90 miles for it to pass.i have been through this before.but like you said the maf will cause the light to come on.

  9. #9
    I'm not sure where getting the car passed through inspection came into this. Tr1k was asking about the CEL, not about limping the car through an inspection.

    So the car needs to be driven for 90 miles for the computer to reset itself? Its not a number of key cycles? And its not that the computer is constantly adapting itself to the car owner's driving style way past 90 miles?

    If you post stupid and incorrect information, you will get red nuggets.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by polishmafia View Post
    I'm not sure where getting the car passed through inspection came into this. Tr1k was asking about the CEL, not about limping the car through an inspection.

    So the car needs to be driven for 90 miles for the computer to reset itself? Its not a number of key cycles? And its not that the computer is constantly adapting itself to the car owner's driving style way past 90 miles?
    i was using that as an example i was told in order for the car to relearn everything it has to be driven for 90 miles.the computer has to relearn how to idle and everything after being reset or having the battery disconnected.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by polishmafia View Post
    tr1k - Forgetting to reconnect the MAF sensor will cause the check engine light to come on if you start the car. The easiest thing to do is disconnect the battery for 20-30 minutes. Reconnect it, and start the car. If the light comes back on, then you still have some type of malfunction. If not, you are good to go.

    Remember that disconnecting/reconnecting the battery will cause the car to idle and shift a little funny for a short time. This is normal, as the computer is relearning how the car needs to idle, shift, etc as you drive it.
    So do you think I after I disconnect the battery for awhile and then hook it up I should do all that other jazz about turning the key to "ON" for 2 minutes, then off for 10 seconds.. start the car and let it idle for 10 minutes... and so on? Or should I just d/c the battery and then hook it back up and start the car?

    After I get the battery all hooked back up and stuff... should I take it easy when driving the car for awhile? Or should I just drive however and it will learn on its own over time?

    If the CEL comes back on... what do you guys think it could be? Car seems to be running fine, if not better.

    Effort and courage are not enough, without purpose and direction.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by tr1kst4nce View Post
    So do you think I after I disconnect the battery for awhile and then hook it up I should do all that other jazz about turning the key to "ON" for 2 minutes, then off for 10 seconds.. start the car and let it idle for 10 minutes... and so on? Or should I just d/c the battery and then hook it back up and start the car?

    After I get the battery all hooked back up and stuff... should I take it easy when driving the car for awhile? Or should I just drive however and it will learn on its own over time?

    If the CEL comes back on... what do you guys think it could be? Car seems to be running fine, if not better.
    if the check engine light comes back on get it scanned to see what exactly it is on for,as of right now it could be anything and you wont know for sure until you know what the code is.

  13. #13
    why not just get it scanned now since the light is already on?
    uhhhh...... Whats a 9g???


  14. #14
    wow, i had to reread galantvr34 replies like 3 times. Its likely to be an intake problem since you just bought your CAI. Injens are known to have check lights

    This is what i would do. First make sure you vacuum hose are connected along with everything else. Next disconnect your negative terminal from the battery. Then go inside your car place you keys into position one and turn on you cabin lights/ head lights for a couple mins. The purpose of doing this is removing the residual power in the electrical system. Now turn everything back off and go back under the hood and reconnect the battery. Everything will be reset now. Start the car for a couple mins and let it idle. No need to really drive 90 miles since the computer is always relearning the driving habbits. Drive around the block if u feel you need too. Hope that helps.
    uhhhh...... Whats a 9g???


  15. #15
    ***UPDATE***

    Ok first off, it's fixed. But what alot of you may be interested to know is what fixed it, which I also found strange.

    When I was putting the intake on, I stripped the X for the screw driver tip to go in on one of the screws that secures the MAF. So I put the other one in nice and tight, the whole thing was secure. I thought "Ok, no big deal, we'll secure it and get to Ace hardware and get a matching screw for it later."

    So... today I did the whole thing with the battery, still the CEL came on. I thought... wtf? And for some reason I thought "could that screw not being there be causing it?... nahhhhh...". But just to eliminate the possibility, I went and got another screw, came home, put it in, did the battery thing one more time... fixed.

    Maybe it's just freak coincidence, but APPRENTLY the screw hole closest to the harness has a censor in it maybe that detects a screw being in there? I found it hard to believe but, maybe so. Unless it's just a coincidence and this time the reset just fixed it but... the CEL is off. We're all good.

    Just thought I would share.

    Effort and courage are not enough, without purpose and direction.

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by tr1kst4nce View Post
    ***UPDATE***

    Ok first off, it's fixed. But what alot of you may be interested to know is what fixed it, which I also found strange.

    When I was putting the intake on, I stripped the X for the screw driver tip to go in on one of the screws that secures the MAF. So I put the other one in nice and tight, the whole thing was secure. I thought "Ok, no big deal, we'll secure it and get to Ace hardware and get a matching screw for it later."

    So... today I did the whole thing with the battery, still the CEL came on. I thought... wtf? And for some reason I thought "could that screw not being there be causing it?... nahhhhh...". But just to eliminate the possibility, I went and got another screw, came home, put it in, did the battery thing one more time... fixed.

    Maybe it's just freak coincidence, but APPRENTLY the screw hole closest to the harness has a censor in it maybe that detects a screw being in there? I found it hard to believe but, maybe so. Unless it's just a coincidence and this time the reset just fixed it but... the CEL is off. We're all good.

    Just thought I would share.
    i am glad you figured out what the problem was.so there was a screw missing from the maf?

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by galantlvr34 View Post
    i am glad you figured out what the problem was.so there was a screw missing from the maf?
    Yeah, which I knew about because I stripped the head when taking it out of the stock intake. But I didn't think it would cause a problem and it would wait until tomorrow to get another. As long as one was going in... but apparently the MAF knows when one is missing, or at least knows when THAT one is missing.

    Now I just need to work on getting the lower half of the intake in down in that tiny space. The damn reservoir for the coolant is in the way of getting it in there properly.


    Effort and courage are not enough, without purpose and direction.

  18. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by tr1kst4nce View Post
    Yeah, which I knew about because I stripped the head when taking it out of the stock intake. But I didn't think it would cause a problem and it would wait until tomorrow to get another. As long as one was going in... but apparently the MAF knows when one is missing, or at least knows when THAT one is missing.

    Now I just need to work on getting the lower half of the intake in down in that tiny space. The damn reservoir for the coolant is in the way of getting it in there properly.

    do you have a set of ramps?maybe you can put it on ramps then take the air filter off and send the other half up from the bottom.

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