Shave Piston and a little more info

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Anyone know anything about shave piston or sometimes called mill pistons?

If im correct, shaving the pistons lowers the compression.. shaving the head increases the compression. an increase will produe more power. Also, what would you guys recommend to be the easiest to motor swap or mod to get to 250 hp?

[Stewi]

for 250 hp the recipe is pretty simple. Dont mess with engine internals at all. Do either an EVO8 turbo or a DSM 16g turbo, 10-12psi, reflashed ECU and a 5 speed swap. It will be fun to drive and pretty reliable if done right. Dont mess with opening the motor and shaving pistons or milling the head or anything like that.

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Would you recommend getting new pistons and shafts for this setup? If i kept it at auto, what are my loses?

[DTP]

The stock auto cannot handle much power. And 5 speed... Well it explains itself

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Makes sense, is there a good how to on the swap. I can handle diagnostics and fixtures but I'm a total newbie at major engine modifications.

[Stewi]

The stock auto cannot handle much power. And 5 speed... Well it explains itself

the stock auto can handle 250whp easy with a decent tranny cooler and proper fluid changes. Qnz's car is auto and his car works perfectly fine and its been turbo for a few years now. The only downside to the auto is more power loss. The parasitic power loss of the auto is greater than that of the 5 speed. Lets say with a 5 speed setup the car makes 250whp, with an auto it would probably make like 225-235whp.

[DTP]

the stock auto can handle 250whp easy with a decent tranny cooler and proper fluid changes. Qnz's car is auto and his car works perfectly fine and its been turbo for a few years now. The only downside to the auto is more power loss. The parasitic power loss of the auto is greater than that of the 5 speed. Lets say with a 5 speed setup the car makes 250whp, with an auto it would probably make like 225-235whp.

Never thought of that... My apologies for lack of knowledge. I do remember someone somewhere along the lines saying what i said, but maybe it was to more HP than i'm thinking of.

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hmmm, if i compare 4g64(what i have currently), an EVO8 turbo or a DSM 16g turbo, 10-12psi, reflashed ECU and a 5 speed swap 4g63t swap with either an EVO8 turbo or a DSM 16g turbo, 10-12psi, reflashed ECU and auto tranny(what i have right now) would still have the parasitic issue? So what is harder to find/cost more, 4g63t swap or 5 speed swap? I hope that made sense. Ive been doign alot of research and there isnt exactly kits for the swap so it would take more time but the 4g63t is mroe on the cost. What do you guys think?

[03-Galant-ES]

5 speed is easier to find and cheaper and yes there will still be the parasitic drain as the issue is the tranny not the engine.

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So this is the tutorial for the 5 spd swap and I feel intimidated already lol How do you prevent or prolong the parasitic problem for both auto and/or manual? I read alot about good and bad of changing transmission fluid, does changing it actually prolong the parasitic after 90k miles of not changing it or would it hurt it since its not use to the new? Sorry if Im asking to much questions.

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=16557

[mrg7243]

there is no preventing or prolonging parasitic drag. It is always there, the torque converter is heavy weight on the crank causeing the drag.