Hmm found the problem....

[cntrylvr79]

So about a month and a half ago wife and I were coming home from work, sitting at a traffic light the car just died. Cranked but just wouldn't fire. Didn't hear the fuel pump priming so figured that was the problem. Towed the car to the house and there it sat for about a month till I got the time to screw with it. Pulled the fuel line from the pump and kicked the ignition on. Great got fuel coming out. So borrowed the shop truck and trailer. Hauled it up to work. It was all down hill from there. Pulled the upper timing cover off and well looky the belt wasn't even touching the cam gear... tore into it the rest of the way and yup I'm screwed.... Well some new belts and we'll see what happens....

[9G]

non interference?

[Sleepervr-4]

non interference?

na it is a interference engine but some times people get lucky and don't bend any valves

cntrylvr79 if it was me I would just put on some new belts and do a compression test to verify everything is fine before reassembly of the timing covers and all. If compression is good then I would remove the belts and change all the timing components and water pump while in there. If it isn't fine then it is easy to just continue to remove the belts and head so you can test to see which valves are bent and get them replace along with the guides that are damaged.

[cntrylvr79]

Thats pretty much the plan. Got new belts and a new auto tensioner coming monday. Worse comes to worse im going to end up pulling the motor and putting the body into storage.

[ADExternal]

At least she wasnt driving at higher speeds, some people are just that lucky sitting idle at a light and it snaps. Thank goodness.

[gnaunited]

I was slowing down at a light and was almost stopped when mine went. It didn't break, it was "removed" from the crankshaft sprocket by some shredded pieces and was actually lifted off of it. So it managed to spin free enough to take out 8 intake valves. Funny thing is when we tried cranking it over it acted like nothing was wrong, the cam moved when cranking so we were a little lost as to what happened.

[cntrylvr79]

Well managed to finally get the time to work on the beasty. Got the new belts in and hell if i had know it was that easy to change the timing belts i would have done it myself instead of paying to have it done. Oh well lesson learned. At anyrate the motors tapping like a son of a bitch. So time to pull the head and see just how bad it is. At least my boss knows a shop that can do the needed work once i get the head pulled. Another plus boss doesnt mind my car taking up space in the shop so i dont have to putt the thing into storage. Save a bit of money there. Suppose im in for some early mornings and late nights.

[gnaunited]

I thought the same thing after having rebuilt the head after the belt broke.

[gnaunited]

Also now that it will be dissassembled I would replace every gasket you can get your hands on, it will be easier now then ever. I ended up replacing:

Water Pump
Intake, Exhaust, Head, Throttle Body, EGR, Thermostat Housing, Front Water Pipe Gaskets
Thermostat
All water lines (7 Total)

My autotensioner worked find when compressed in a vice so I did not replace it, however I did replace the timing belt pulleys (3 total).

Have fun.

[cntrylvr79]

Must say i have to have the most understanding wife. She let me go to work this morning to work on the car. Got the intake manifold and the fuel rail out. Coolants drained and oils out. I swear though i must have used every different socket extension swivel and adapter i have just to get the manifold bolts out. It amazes me just how much crap they managed to sneak into and around that manifold. I must have disconnected 30 diferent lines... eh such is life i guess. Fun parts up next trying to get the exhaust manifold out. I did call the not so local mitsu dealer just out of curiousity. Got quoted 2200 for everything. Seals water pump valve job. Hmm so far im into the job 102 for the timing belt kit. Find out soon enough on the gasket kit and the water pump. Took pics but cant figure out how to post them from my phone.

[gnaunited]

I probably should have mentioned that I took the intake off with the head because I couldn't get to those bottom bolts either. I would find a local shop and let them deal with the head rebuild, everything else should be doable by yourself.

[cntrylvr79]

Got both intake and exhaust manifolds out. Accessory belts are off, and started on getting the timing belt back off. though only got as far as getting the timing cover off. This time there's pics :) So close with any luck I'll have the time this weekend to finally get to the point where I can pull the head.

[cntrylvr79]

Well I have to say it's been an interesting and educational experience getting to this point. Managed to finally get the head pulled today just before leaving work for the day. Anyone reading this, the special tool for removing the head bolts is a 12 point 12mm socket. Oh and those fuckers are a bitch to break loose. Didn't have the time to really go over the head to check for damage. Did check out the pistons though. I didn't see anything that could be considered damage. A little carbon buildup but hey with 120k on the clock it's to be expected. Hopefully during lunch tomorrow I'll get a chance to go over the head and see what the damage is. Wish me luck.

[gnaunited]

Mine had two dents per piston, I didn't notice it until I cleaned off the oil and dirt that had started to pool in each piston. I also had the carbon build up on each cylinder. When I checked my head, I saw that the two valves that open and close at the same time were not lined up with each other, one was lower than the other. That was the point I knew that it had to go to the shop.

[cntrylvr79]

Verdict's in. Looks like 2 bent intake valves on cylinder 2. Going to ship the head out to be repaired monday. Ond just for giggles took a picture of all of the tools I used to get the work done. Haven't used the torque wrenches yet but figured I'll need them when it goes back together so I put them there. The only thing not in the picture is the tensioner tool that I borrowed from one of the neighboring shops. Though I have one coming.

[cntrylvr79]

Well I shsould have the head back from the machine shop tomorrow. 3 bills to replace 2 bent valves, the cam shaft seal, all 16 valve stem seals, clean and machine the head. So lets see how that and the maintainace parts break down.

102 for the timing kit
300 for the machine work
107 for the head set
32 for new head bolts
71 for the water pump and gasket
18 for the accessory belts
7 for the thermostat and gasket
9 for the upper radiator hose
0 for the motor oil and coolant


646 bucks for what the dealer was going to bang me for 2200 for. Not too shabby and I get to keep my car. Hell once all this is done maybe I'll dare I say finish some mods that I started before my daughter was born.

[Shadow19]

Replace that tensioner no matter how good it worked in a vice. TRUST ME. It will save you more time and money in the long run. Its 100 bucks and well worth the money.

[cntrylvr79]

finally got the head back from the machine shop after 2 weeks.... When they were replacing the valve stem seals they found 2 more bent valves. also 4 of the lifters had gouges from when the valves got hit. So another 18 bucks for the valves and about 50 for the lifters. already got a new auto tensioner just forgot to mention that since I got that at the same time as the timing belts. 63 for that so I guess my new total is 777. Still hella cheaper than the dealer. Now I just gotta get the damn thing back together...

[Brent]

The belt on my Galant went when my wife was driveing to work 4:00 in the morning got it towed home found the belt had broken so I know there was valves bent because she was on the hiway at 60 yes there was 5 bent valves but it only cost 175.00 at the machine shop to replace the valves and all valve stem seals clean and machine the head and 575 labor to remove the head and install it back replace belts and tensioner water pump and the rear motor mount it was done at my house by a mobile machanic 3 days time

[cntrylvr79]

Success. After 4 months of not driving the g it's finally all back together and street legal again. Lessons learned: Never tell the machine shop no hurry. And make sure that when they put the head back together that the rocker arm shafts were put in properly and not 180 degrees out. Had a nasty tap before I figured that one out. Next time something goes wrong that leaves the car immobilized I'm not going to wait a month and a half to get around to looking at it. Now I just gotta hope that it's just corrosion build up on the brakes and rotors causing the pulsation and not warped rotors from sitting so long...