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Thread: The Money Pit!

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  1. #301
    Experienced TGC Member mysticj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greddy View Post
    Sex. You sir are living my dream if I didn't use the galant as a dual purpose vehicle. I'm interested in that half shaft solution you mentioned because I too am having some torque steer issues.
    The only OE intermediate shaft for the 4G64/4G69 is the one off the 04-06 Ralliart Lancer. I which I knew the length.
    94 Galant GS: 4G67 head, 1G IM, Evo 8 TB, DeltaCam 272/264 Cams, Test Pipe, OE Avenger V6 60mm catback w/muffler, modified Outlander header, DIY COP setup, B/S delete, 315cc injectors, AEM UEGO WBO2, Black case 3G ECU

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  2. #302
    Booty Luva wetamup2k3g's Avatar
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    Ohh, I can't wait to see this in person! It's supposed to get warmer later this week, I can run to Crazy Ray's and get a set of USDM mirrors if you have no luck with the Mirage glass or anyone else swapping for the JDM's. I would swap but my color don't match and I'd be freaked out about not being able to see out my mirror.

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  3. #303
    Experienced TGC Member xd_01's Avatar
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    Im actually gonna hold on to the mirrors for now. Im thinking if I get a spot mirror it will help the blind spot I have. Sorry to get anyones hopes up but Im having a hard time letting these go lol.

  4. #304
    TGC Lifetime Patron oakrdrs187's Avatar
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    Even with the mirage glass the adjustment maxes out. For race purposes I would stick to what works best and is safest, which means go back to stock. As for me on the street and for jdm sake I deal with the wide view I get from the jdm mirrors, I got used to it. Its like having that wide view clip-on to the rear view but on the driver side mirror I get to see the blindspot with minimal effort but it appears far away.

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  5. #305
    Experienced TGC Member xd_01's Avatar
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    well heres my update, hopefully I can get it it done before the kids wake up. So I took on a whole bunch of projects this winter and logged about 46 hours so far in the past two months, that's working nights and almost every Saturday. All I have left is to the bleed the brakes, take it to the dyno for a re-fresher in two Saturdays and add some roll bar padding.

    Fabbed up some aluminum door panels


    Was able to keep the controls in the door






    Added mesh to the front bumper opening to keep all the crap out my intercooler




    Riveted and done


    Decided to clean up some wiring and move the important gauges into eye view on top of the dash. Also added some junctions terminals for the gauges to neaten up the wiring. Top one is the switched 12v the middle is power for the lights and bottom is ground.


    Fabbed up and aluminum panel for the gauges and any other future gauges, switches or circuit breakers that need to be panel mounted.


    2" holes cut


    Done


    Harness's finally came








    So I think figured out why I was leaking gear oil from on top of the tranny, at first I thought the selector lever cover was leaking but then I looked real close and thought why is there a small opening on the cover with traces of oil all around.


    Well I was missing the rubber plug, Im gonna feel real stupid if this was the reason.


    Got the Grimmspeed mounted and wired to convert to electronic boost control. Not wired to the AEM yet the tuner is gonna do that on the dyno day so I don't fuck it up lol.


    Lastly my attempt to eliminate or at least soften the torque steer. I stumbled upon a lancer build on evom by chance and this guy swapped an 06 2.4 ralliart motor and tranny into his older base lancer. In his pics he showed the intermediate shaft installed and Im like that 69 block looks identical to my 64 block. I dug around the net for some pics of the back of both blocks and they looked so close that I had to take a chance. I picked up the parts from my local dealer and went for it.







    Test fit went well so I ordered an axle from NAPA.

    I had to chase the threads cause the bolts didn't want to thread in all the way but now there fine.

    Got the axle and installed without a problem. The length seems correct and everything seems fine so far so Im gonna go with it. I did take some measurements before I order the axle and they were the same as on their spec sheet but I was so anxiuous to get it on that I never check the axle measurements once I actually had it my hands. Like I said though its seems to fit fine.




    Its kinda hard taking good pics in that area

    Other things I did were change the brake lines and have the shop I go to change the piston seals in the front calipers.
    Well be headed down to VIR at the end of March for the season opener, I cant wait!

    These pics were from January

    Behind my DD


    Last edited by xd_01; 03-01-2014 at 08:22 PM

  6. #306
    Nice work. I'll be looking forward to seeing video of how well it performs this Spring.
    '99 5-Speed GTZ: Forged 3.6L 6G74T 6764 E85
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  7. #307
    Experienced TGC Member OMEGA PHX's Avatar
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    Damn I had seen that the 4g69 lancers had that intermediate shaft but wasn't brave enough to invest the money to find out if it fit, thats great bro car look great, I'm really interested in a review about new axle ;)
    Last edited by OMEGA PHX; 02-28-2014 at 03:56 PM

    4g64T 5spd

  8. #308
    Going to do that axle mod now. I love the aluminum door panels homie. Car is looking real good. Inspiring me to get mine done
    Jigz-TGCIL Sosick Motorsports

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    I'd rather have the knowledge and ability to do it than the money to buy it already done.

  9. #309
    Great work, love the cage and great choice in harness.
    Any chance you could list he part numbers you used for the axle swap?
    Last edited by greddy; 02-28-2014 at 07:29 PM
    OZ Rally Crew #001, Quaife Club member :D

  10. #310
    Experienced TGC Member xd_01's Avatar
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    Sure but I wont be back at the garage for a few days and that's where I got all my notes. For the record I haven't tested it yet let alone put the wheels back on and set on the ground so I cant say its a success yet until I bring it to the dyno next week and let them beat the shit out it. But yea I should be able post everything Tuesday. The other thing is you have to make sure your block has the bosses drilled and tapped otherwise you cant do it.

    When I first got the parts I pulled my spare block to test fit and the bosses where completely blank, I was like fuckkkk!! But then I checked my block in the car and they were drilled and tapped. How lucky was that because the spare block was the one that was actually in the car in my first build but then the thrust washer seized and I had rebuild everything with the current block. I cant tell you how relieved I was. Here some pics of what Im talking about.

    The bosses are marked with yellow paint marker




    So check the back of your block first.

    Parts cost around $250 and the axle from NAPA was $69 with a $55 core. I hope they don't get mad when I send them my old torn driver side axle as acore.

  11. #311
    TGC Regular Guzm4n's Avatar
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    The Money Pit!

    Good work, love how much of a track car this has turned into!
    Last edited by Guzm4n; 03-01-2014 at 12:20 AM

  12. #312
    that axle swap! its a must omg, and im loving this build.
    The "Tumbler" Is Here
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  13. #313
    TGC Lifetime Patron Black8GV6's Avatar
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    This thread makes me

    15 F150 3.5 ecoboost 4x4 - daily driver
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  14. #314
    Yes sir!

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  15. #315
    Experienced TGC Member 6G72gearhead's Avatar
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    Why not just drill and tap the block? Good bits measure carefully and use plenty of cutting oil and it should be fine. Keep track of depth as well.
    RIP: Colin McRae, you will be missed.
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  16. #316
    Experienced TGC Member xd_01's Avatar
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    I guess you can do that but I would probably never attempt it for a few reasons and Ill explain why. You would have to get the holes completely square to get the factory fit, if the holes are crooked it would probably work but not something I would be comfortable with. I would rather a machine shop with the proper tools handle this task and the block would need to be out of the car for that which at that point I would just get the correct block. If the holes are not aligned then your gonna have to hog out the holes on the shaft bracket not a big deal I guess. Your also drilling a 10mm hole into a cast iron block so your gonna have to start with a small pilot bit and keep stepping it up, again its very difficult to get a square hole when drilling by hand and even more when you have to step hole sizes up. Not to mention your working a very tight area and getting a regular hand held drill in there seems impossible, you would need a right angle drill and Im not even sure that fit.

    I know Im pessimistic at times but I cant help it. Im not saying it cant be done Im just saying why I probably wouldn't attempt it. The first thing you have to do is see if a drill actually fits back there.
    Last edited by xd_01; 03-01-2014 at 08:19 PM

  17. #317
    This car is a prime example of "because racecar" lol, nice work as usual

  18. #318
    Very impressed with the commitment and work carried out. Would love to track my car but to good a daily for that. Love ur work!

  19. #319
    Experienced TGC Member xd_01's Avatar
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    Thanks everybody it means a lot.

    So I thought more and more about drilling and tapping the block for the shaft bracket and now I would probably attempt. I would pull the engine and tranny to do it though because honestly I don't think a hand drill would fit back there.

  20. #320
    Yes I'm just going to freehand a couple axle bracket holes in grey cast iron with a corded drill and a squirt bottle of cutting oil. Might as well dremel my heads out while they're on the motor at the same time.



    I love this car, and envy your cage. If you really think you're going to drill and tap cast iron you're either nuts or you have some extremely extremely expensive consumer tools...

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