car wont idle when cold !!!

[spdracr]

If you think it might be the IAC then check this out. You may be able to clean out your original one.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TZK_RqjjD8

Also I havent tried swapping a I4 IAC to a V6 but I know I wouldnt try due to them being different maybe.

Still replace the O2 sensor. But when you do buy a new one from the dealer. Do not buy Bosch replacement. I have only heard bad things with people doing that.

Before I go buying a new replacement O2 sensor and wasting the money I wanna rule out my other options first, also I have replaced my front O2 sensor on one of my galants with a Bosch and haven't had a problem since

Sent from my HTC HD2

[01blackG]

Before I go buying a new replacement O2 sensor and wasting the money I wanna rule out my other options first, also I have replaced my front O2 sensor on one of my galants with a Bosch and haven't had a problem since

Sent from my HTC HD2

I know what you mean it sucks wasting money on something not needed. But you said you had codes from the O2 sensor.

Just out of curiosity what did the metal cage on the Bosch O2 sensor look like that you replaced on the galant with no issues you are refering to?

Reason I ask is I just replaced mine a few months back and the stock O2 sensors metal protector look like swiss cheese sort of speaking. Where the new Bosch one only had 3 or 4 slots around it. And my gas millage is very low with the new Bosch one. And I have noticed when I leave my house on a cold day the car seems to stay in a so called "choke" position for a longer period of time then when I had my stock O2 on when it was working.

Check this thread out if you dont mind. I am going to try adding a little more to it.
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=46297

[spdracr]

I know what you mean it sucks wasting money on something not needed. But you said you had codes from the O2 sensor.

Just out of curiosity what did the metal cage on the Bosch O2 sensor look like that you replaced on the galant with no issues you are refering to?

Reason I ask is I just replaced mine a few months back and the stock O2 sensors metal protector look like swiss cheese sort of speaking. Where the new Bosch one only had 3 or 4 slots around it. And my gas millage is very low with the new Bosch one. And I have noticed when I leave my house on a cold day the car seems to stay in a so called "choke" position for a longer period of time then when I had my stock O2 on when it was working.

Check this thread out if you dont mind. I am going to try adding a little more to it.
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=46297

I didn't say we had codes. I wish we did cuz it would make it easier for me to figure out what's wrong with his car

I don't have pics of the sensor but I remember it had more than 3 to 4 slots, I guess it looked like swiss cheese and my car reaches normal operating temp the same way it was with the oem sensor.

Sent from my HTC HD2

[Isaurio]

Bro check the spark plugs maybe they have oil on them. Also injectors.

[01blackG]

I have the same prob with my 2003 v6 3.0 . I was sure it was the IAC and am now looking to buy one for cheap. If you changed yours and saw it didnt work, im thinking about saving myslef the $ until you find some solution. They are super expensive.

cleaning the throttle body didnt do much, MAF wasnt problem on mine either. I do have codes on the car for the O2 sensors... could that be the prob ??

Opps I read the wrong name. Guess it was someone else with the code problems.

[lawrd44]

is there a way to test the IAC to make sure its operating properly ?? cuz now we have 3 of them and i hate to throw them away if they are working

Are they for the i4 or v6? You could sell them. I have a v6 tb laying in my garage waiting for a iac sensor so i can put it on my g.[/QUOTE]



Testing the IAC

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qC1Omt5_ItM

you can do this on or off the car ...

[ADExternal]

So your car idles at roughly 1k-1.5k at cold start right? The bad idle that your wondering about that its not stable hold that high RPM while warming up or it just drops to fast? Im just getting some details before I make some assumptions.

[spdracr]

So your car idles at roughly 1k-1.5k at cold start right? The bad idle that your wondering about that its not stable hold that high RPM while warming up or it just drops to fast? Im just getting some details before I make some assumptions.

no it doesnt idle cold at all unless u hold the pedal

[ADExternal]

So your saying it idles ONLY when your car is warm?

[spdracr]

So your saying it idles ONLY when your car is warm?

When he turns the key on and cranks it, it will die unless he holds the gas pedal down for few minutes

Sent from my HTC HD2

[sthrnbumpn]

egr valve, just sumthin that popped up ,

on another totally different truck .... i had a similar prob with idle an o2's for a couple years it never showed a egr code at all till 3 years later, then once i replaced it bammm , cured all my problems

it was a 98 gmc sierra, if u already replaced it with another, sorry for postin a repeat, theres alotta replys to this thread

[mko]

Yes! The O2 sensor can totally do it depending on how cold the engine reads out. With a bad O2 sensor the car is pushing more gas then it actually needs when cold. So by reving it up you are by passing the O2 from an idle position to a running position. And heating up the O2 at the same time. Its long to explain. Lond story short the mix is to rich due to a bad O2 causeing the motor to stall at idle when cold.

Well let me welcome you to the 21st century where we have built-in heater element in the o2 sensor, so there are no rich or lean conditions while the engine is not in operational temps.

Dont mean to bash, but your logic makes no sense too. Idle position to running position wth is this?

[01blackG]

Well let me welcome you to the 21st century where we have built-in heater element in the o2 sensor, so there are no rich or lean conditions while the engine is not in operational temps.

Dont mean to bash, but your logic makes no sense too. Idle position to running position wth is this?

Ment to say cold idle versus a warm to fully warmed operating state. Like I mentioned It's long dont feel like typing it all out.

In short form if the O2 is shot it doesnt read right when the car is cold or might not read at all. Most of the times it really messes up when cold and might work once warmed or close to full operating tempetures. And it can cause the car to stall out when the motor is cold and idled, if the O2 sensor is shot.

F.Y.I - a heating element would be something like the "plugs" on a diesel motor or inside your house furnace. O2 sensor is a different story all together.

[spdracr]

Ment to say cold idle versus a warm to fully warmed operating state. Like I mentioned It's long dont feel like typing it all out.

In short form if the O2 is shot it doesnt read right when the car is cold or might not read at all. Most of the times it really messes up when cold and might work once warmed or close to full operating tempetures. And it can cause the car to stall out when the motor is cold and idled, if the O2 sensor is shot.

F.Y.I - a heating element would be something like the "plugs" on a diesel motor or inside your house furnace. O2 sensor is a different story all together.

if the O2 is faulty then a check engine light would happily come on but its not and no pending codes so thats not the issue, unless u have another suggestion please dont give me a lesson oh how the thing works

thanks

[wetamup2k3g]

F.Y.I - a heating element would be something like the "plugs" on a diesel motor or inside your house furnace. O2 sensor is a different story all together.

Something I read to clarify about the heating element:

The sensors only work effectively when heated to approximately 316 °C (600 °F), so most newer lambda probes have heating elements encased in the ceramic that bring the ceramic tip up to temperature quickly. Older probes, without heating elements, would eventually be heated by the exhaust, but there is a time lag between when the engine is started and when the components in the exhaust system come to a thermal equilibrium. The length of time required for the exhaust gases to bring the probe to temperature depends on the temperature of the ambient air and the geometry of the exhaust system. Without a heater, the process may take several minutes. There are pollution problems that are attributed to this slow start-up process, including a similar problem with the working temperature of a catalytic converter.
The probe typically has four wires attached to it: two for the lambda output, and two for the heater power, although some automakers use a common ground for the sensor element and heaters, resulting in three wires. Earlier non-electrically-heated sensors had one or two wires..

Trying to help, not to criticize.

[01blackG]

Trying to help, not to criticize.[/QUOTE]

No problem thats cool. I was still a bit stuck on old school rules. And under the impression that they heated up from the exaust.
So I guess we can say the O2 is a heating element. LOL

[spdracr]

so cleaned the TB and it didnt make a difference

tested the IAC and it works

nothing changed

my friend suggested that the coolant temp sensor might be bad so we used one that we had on a spare engine that was running before we took it out of the car

tomorrow i will find out if the sensor fixed the problem or not

[galantlvr34]

so cleaned the TB and it didnt make a difference

tested the IAC and it works

nothing changed

my friend suggested that the coolant temp sensor might be bad so we used one that we had on a spare engine that was running before we took it out of the car

tomorrow i will find out if the sensor fixed the problem or not

a coolant sensor wouldnt cause the car to not idle when cold it would only affect the temperature gauge.did you check for any vacuum leaks?

[spdracr]

a coolant sensor wouldnt cause the car to not idle when cold it would only affect the temperature gauge.did you check for any vacuum leaks?

Please tell me u r joking.

Our cars have 2, a temperature sender which sends the signal to the gauge and so u can see your temp and that one is located on top of the thermostat housing and has one wire

The temp sensor is located under the thermostat housing and screws into the head and has two wires and that has nothing to do with the gauge.

If u believe I'm wrong please prove it but from what u said I bet u didn't know that we had two on our cars.

Sent from my HTC HD2

[mko]

The Temp sensor has nothing to do with this. The temp sensor determines when the ECU goes from open loop(cold engine) where it doesnt use the O2 sensor to correct the fuel going to the engine, into closed loop(oper. temps) where the o2 sensor is active and feedbacks to the ECU. The other function is to enable the trigger signal for the fans.