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Thread: Do you have this on top of your 3.0L engine?

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  1. #1

    Do you have this on top of your 3.0L engine?

    I think Im missing this sensor however I can't find it listed in the FSM anywhere. Do you have it? It is located on the plentum driver's side right under throttle cable on 10mm bolt in front of ground.

    http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...9&l=808a6e9eec

    Couldn't figure out how to post photos from Facebook but it's the only one in the album.

  2. #2
    http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...5_272419_n.jpg

    you have to right click the image and open in a new window, than copy image url :D

  3. #3
    You are here entirely tooo much!! beam514's Avatar
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    I can't even see what that is lol

  4. #4
    yeah its too blurry

  5. #5

  6. #6
    It is a black sensor on a ground. It is the ten millimeter bolt in front of the ground bolt, front drivers side of plentum under the throttle cable.

    Btw... The car just rolled out on a flat bed cause I gave up after a week and a half.

  7. #7


    Just trying out how to put pics on here...

  8. #8
    Just trying out if I finally got my signature to work...

  9. #9
    davila825
    Guest
    i have the same problem on my eclipse. it is a capacitor that lets ignition static go to ground but isolates the DC current because it is on the + side of the ignition.. i had lost that part and my car would keep blowing the ignition fuse. do you need the part? i can give you the part number and website if you need it. let me know
    Last edited by davila825; 05-24-2011 at 06:54 PM

  10. #10
    Definitely would like that part number. Some how that part went missing during a spark plug change. Just vanished. No wires or nothing. My car will crank but wont turn over. I checked everything on that engine and even so much as replaced the fuel pump because it wouldn't kick on with the ignition but this may explain it. FSM here I come to research it before I start getting charged $75 an hour tomorrow to diagnose and fix.

  11. #11

  12. #12
    davila825
    Guest
    do you have spark?

    (i am working on that part number)

  13. #13
    Yep. Good spark. All new plugs, wires and rotor. Verified by grounding the plugs. Firing order is correct.

    No fuel pressure though. Checked both relays were good and replaced the pump. When the ignition gets turned to on there is nothing telling the pump there is not enough pressure to turn it on.

    The battery I replaced because it wouldn't hold a charge. The starter definately works.

  14. #14
    that sig is priceless!!!!! knock on wood
    clickity clack & boom in the back , 99 Glant

  15. #15
    The real mechanics verdict is: DISTRIBUTOR. Insufficient spark across the cylinders. And I leave this simple spark plug change with 9/10th the engine bay replaced with new parts.

  16. #16
    davila825
    Guest
    here you go

    Part #R472444 Condenser, noise $9.38 + shipping

    [email protected] Phone # 817-596-5700

  17. #17

    This MFR still wont start....

    The car ran fine until a spark plug change. The plug job was done correctly.

    Replaced parts after car wouldn't start:
    Battery
    Fuel Pump
    Distributor and Rotor

    SO, the pros said it would be a distributor problem. Their getting fuel, spark is good, all the elements are there and can hear combustion but the car just wont start. Timing belt sensor?! I need help desperately. It has been two weeks without my DD.

  18. #18
    You might try this.

    First remove the fuel pump fuse. I think it's a 15Amp one under the hood marked "engine".

    Crank it a few times to bleed the pressure.

    Remove all the plugs and stick long wooden dowels down the spark plug tubes so they stick above the valve cover.

    Lay the ignition coils on the top of the engine with plugs attached.

    Have someone crank the engine.

    You should see a spark from each plug at least every other time the dowel rises on its cylinder. (It may be every time if the V6 uses wasted spark)

    It should in theory spark about 1 to 2 cm before the dowel is at the highest position. (Several degrees before top dead center.) (At idle I was seeing 18 to 22 degrees BTDC firing on our 2002)

    Hopefully there won't be enough force to fire the dowels out of the cylinders or enough force to shoot gas fumes out near the plugs.

    If you're seeing spark at the correct time then you know that at least the electrical portion is working.

    Now if the car does not use wasted spark and somehow your ignition timing is 180 degrees off, you could be sparking on the exhaust stroke but if that were the case the unburned fuel would probably ignite and you might have smoke and flames out the tail pipe.

    To test the electrical system to the injectors, unplug them and connect a test light to the wires. You should see a blink of the light every other time the dowel is rising.
    Last edited by stonent; 05-27-2011 at 10:52 AM

  19. #19
    Outstanding feedback... The car is in the hands of a professional mechanic now and he better figure this out. From what I have discussed with him about fuel and electrical leads me to believe timing skipped or the sensor got smacked. He noted there were chunks out of the timing belt.
    Last edited by MI_SPRAWLIN; 05-27-2011 at 11:11 AM

  20. #20
    Love the new sig, I should have thought of that one.

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