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Thread: stock headlight wiring...

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  1. #21
    sweet!

  2. #22
    Hey, don't mean to hijack this thread, but I'm having similar issues. If requested, I will just create a new thread.

    I was using a no-name hid conversion kit that came with the car. It only has low beams. When I turn on the high beams, the bulbs just go out. Anyways, I need to get my car inspected and Im sure having no high beams will not pass inspection. So I unhooked the entire plug and play kit and put my regular halogens back in. Here is my issue:

    When I turn on my low-beams, they sllllloooowwwwwllllyyyyyy brighten. It takes about 3-4 seconds for them to stop brighten and at that time they do not look bright. Also, when I put on my high-beams the passenger side goes out while the driver side brightens.

    Could this be a wiring problem as well? I would like to just rewire my headlights and properly prepare them for HID use. I don't have any experience with relays, but Im a fst learner and can find out. Does anyone know whats going on?

    Any help is appreciated.

    THanks,
    SCott

  3. #23
    Senior TGC Member DTP's Avatar
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    Check your connectors for corrosion and signs of burning. You may only have a low beam kit, instead of a bi-xenon or hi/lo kit.


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  4. #24
    Excellent. Will do. Would someone please tell me how to use a relay with the hid lights?. Also I saw some kits on eBay that comes with relays. I'm guessing if I purchase one of those I wont need to create a separate relay?

    Thanks
    Scott

  5. #25
    Senior TGC Member DTP's Avatar
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    Something like that. But you need to find out if they're bi-xenon or not. They may be just lows.


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  6. #26
    Looks like they're bixenon. Here's a link to them. Any good?

    Thanks
    Scott

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/35W-W...item2c5f4f5863

  7. #27
    Senior TGC Member DTP's Avatar
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    Hmmm... Definitely check your connections then.


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  8. #28
    Just checked my wires. They connectors were pretty corroded so I went to autozone and replaced them. Turns out that didn't help with the fade in of the lights. I checked my fuses and found that one of the high beam fuses were blown out. Replaced it and now both high beams are working.

    Just gotta find out why the lights take 3 seconds to fully brighten. Could it be the bulbs? Seems more of a power issue.

    Thanks,
    Scott

  9. #29
    TGC Lifetime Patron oakrdrs187's Avatar
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    That is weird. Test it with a meter see what you get. As for a good bi-xenon kit that comes with everything you need got to DDMTuning.com they also have lifetime warranty.

  10. #30
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    If they are the HID bulbs, they take a second to warm up, if you will.
    -Andrew

  11. #31
    Its been a while but heres an update. Turns out my wires are corroded. They're no longer the bright copper color; now they're actually dusty blue. These are the original oem wires (yellow with red stripe, blue with red stripe, and black wire). I'd like to just replace them but I don't know where to start.

    Any hints?

    Thanks,
    Scott

  12. #32
    Senior TGC Member DTP's Avatar
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    Pepboys will have them. Basically you just cut the one off, and wire them in.


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  13. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by oakrdrs187 View Post
    Good luck with dealing with DDM, their shipping slowed way down. And yes dude 18 gague is only good for trigger wires. The ballast plugs are about 14 awg. Be safe.

    If you get the bixenon harness that'll run you less than 20the bucks everythin will be plug and play with correct size wiring. Only thing is the high beam you'll have to wire the highs directly too the stock harness.
    noob here so couldnt create new post, my apologies. could you elaborate on that? my current setup consists of ebay projectors with hid kit. reason why im asking is because i am planning to do a retrofit in the near future with morimoto mini bi-xenon d2s from retrofitsource.com the ebay projectors resemble the jdm headlights which separate the high/low beams. lows shut off while high beams are on....having them both on doesnt really catch my attention tho, would i be ok not wiring the bi-xenon solenoid on the morimoto?

  14. #34
    TGC Regular Redhaze's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oakrdrs187 View Post
    I just noticed you have jdm heads. You should get a bixenon harness to solve your relay issue and high beams on with lows. It will work just perfect for you since it draws directly from the battery with heavy awg wire and has another built in relay to allow you to retain lows with highs.
    i went this way with my projectors (tapped my highs into the postive and negative of the highs off of the bixenon harness) and now my Highs are dont work any more ive double checked everything i guess ill break out my DDM tomorrow and see if i can figure it out. i really dont care for them but ill need to fix them eventually for inspection...
    -Dirty South-

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    Quote Originally Posted by oakrdrs187 View Post
    It dont smell or anything so F it.

  15. #35
    TGC Lifetime Patron oakrdrs187's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chino09 View Post
    noob here so couldnt create new post, my apologies. could you elaborate on that? my current setup consists of ebay projectors with hid kit. reason why im asking is because i am planning to do a retrofit in the near future with morimoto mini bi-xenon d2s from retrofitsource.com the ebay projectors resemble the jdm headlights which separate the high/low beams. lows shut off while high beams are on....having them both on doesnt really catch my attention tho, would i be ok not wiring the bi-xenon solenoid on the morimoto?
    It would be best to just have them both on when you switch to high beams. Have the HID lows turn off and then back on as you switch back will short the life of the ballast and bulbs. If you got the bixenon harness it would be perfect for your retrofit, when you tap the solenoid to the high beams and switch to them your projectors will open up but your HIDs will cut out doing you no good.


    Quote Originally Posted by Redhaze View Post
    i went this way with my projectors (tapped my highs into the postive and negative of the highs off of the bixenon harness) and now my Highs are dont work any more ive double checked everything i guess ill break out my DDM tomorrow and see if i can figure it out. i really dont care for them but ill need to fix them eventually for inspection...
    You probably connected the H1 Halogen bulbs directly to the new harness which is designed to supply high beam power to a solenoid not a bulb. Connect your wires on the high beam bulbs directly to the stock harness, it should work, if they don't check your fuses.

  16. #36
    TGC Regular Redhaze's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oakrdrs187 View Post
    It would be best to just have them both on when you switch to high beams. Have the HID lows turn off and then back on as you switch back will short the life of the ballast and bulbs. If you got the bixenon harness it would be perfect for your retrofit, when you tap the solenoid to the high beams and switch to them your projectors will open up but your HIDs will cut out doing you no good.




    You probably connected the H1 Halogen bulbs directly to the new harness which is designed to supply high beam power to a solenoid not a bulb. Connect your wires on the high beam bulbs directly to the stock harness, it should work, if they don't check your fuses.
    good idea man your smart so what i need to do is run a separate relay for my highs might aswell go hids there 2 then
    -Dirty South-

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    Quote Originally Posted by oakrdrs187 View Post
    It dont smell or anything so F it.

  17. #37
    TGC Lifetime Patron oakrdrs187's Avatar
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    No extra relay needed. Just use the stock wires. But keep the bixenon harness high beam trigger attached so the lows won't cut out when using highs.

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