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Thread: 1st time engine swap underway!

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  1. #21
    Alright, I saved the old gasket anyway so I'll just bring it to the store to make sure. Thanks!

  2. #22
    I just realized that I overlooked the issue of the clutch. I have no idea how many miles are on the clutch in the used engine, but I know for a fact that the clutch on my old car was replaced right before we started having problems, so it's relatively new. Should I be safe and just transfer it over to the used engine?

  3. #23
    yes, but make sure to torque the clutch and flywheel to the correct specs and use threadlocker. You dont want your clutch or flywheel bolts rattling off

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrancisTheGook View Post
    Noob question. So today I was examining the engine and an old gasket came off from it. I think it was from the bottom of the exhaust manifold. There is a gasket between the exhaust manifold and the catalytic converter right? What is the technical name for it when I buy the gasket?
    I forget the technical term for them. but i believe they are the same gasket. Its just a exhaust manifold gasket. but not the main gasket obviously... I took mine off and took it to them. and they ordered me one for my car. even though it was for a 99 galant, i had to drill the holes and make them a little bigger. they were about 2mm off from the right size. i didnt have any leaks or anything. but barely drilled it bigger :) i kinda had a run around... i got one.. it didnt fit so i took it back, and they got another one for the 2.4 l motor, and it was a different item #. and it still didnt fit. So i just modd'd it to work. But i think its the same gasket. there should be one on each side of your cat. if u remove it that far. but im guessing u are referring to the one that falls out as soon as you unbolt your manifold. the exhaust drops. the header pops, and the gasket falls straight down on the floor, saying change me !!

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by qnz View Post
    yes, but make sure to torque the clutch and flywheel to the correct specs and use threadlocker. You dont want your clutch or flywheel bolts rattling off
    Agreed !!! day before yesterday my timing belt slipped off... luckily the head stopped on time. right on Top dead center... the bolts to my timing tensioner pully rattled out... ( they were out about 1/4 of a inch and everything was loose ) there was loud noise, and what sounded like valves being smashed... but the noise just ended up being the belt slipping on the bottom crank. i figured be on the safe side... and while i had to wait for new parts to come in anyways... i went ahead and tore my head off, and performed a pressure test on it. Some how... 2 of my intake valves had barely slapped the top of the piston. i mean there was a little tiny mark on it ( cylinder 4 ) . and the valve was clean of any carbon deposits on the very tips. But it all pressure checked out... it all held solvent very nicely... 1 of thoes 2 vavles had a small leak... it was sooo small though, i mean, talking like 1 drop about every 2 minutes. so that passes my inspection lol. I started putting it all back together. head gasket and timing components should be in today. im re-using the factory OEM Mitsubishi timing belt i bought. Cause it looks in perfect condition, and i had about 25,000 miles on it. So i get to put it all back together here in the next few hours... i secured my water inlet pipe, and used some hi temp sealant to give it a little extra to seal thoes stinkin water O rings... I hate it when they leak. But moral of the story is. a. i got very very lucky my head stopped on TDC and i didnt loose any valves. and 2. Im going to buy some locktite and put it on all the timing component parts. and as far as there recommended specs. im going to tighten them extra tight to be on the safe side. which recommend that you do not do. i guess ill take some pics today while im doing it. Show you where that bolt is to check your balancing shaft and all that fun stuff... also what makes life easier. is get some white out. and put a mark on the crank pulley to make it easier to see the mark, then remove the cover, and make sure it stays right on time, and make your marks manually on the crank sprocket as well, and the refrence mark on the lower crank angle sensor plate or if you do it enough you just know that the pin goes to the right and the crank sensor plate will be starting right on the sensor basicly .but this helps so you dont gotta put the timing cover , and crank pulley off and on to check the timing . you can just look at the lines you have across your sprocket. plate. and block to make sure the lower end is in time :) sorry for rambling lol
    Last edited by Eclipse97526; 09-02-2011 at 11:30 AM

  6. #26
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    and another side note... i could see really well with the H.I.D's while i was pushing the galant... LOL .... it just sucks that was my first experience with HID's it wasnt dark enough before my timing belt went out to really check them out. lol but they sure are nice ! =)

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