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Thread: HungarianHunter's latest car troubles...

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  1. #21
    The CKP is actually a hall effect sensor. The brass ring is a trigger that cuts through the magnetic field to indicate TDC to the ECU.

    An impact gun will get the crank sprocket off with no issue. I would advise you to index it before taking it off. Though IIRC the crank has a key on it.
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    I'd rather have the knowledge and ability to do it than the money to buy it already done.

  2. #22
    Index it as in just make a mark so that I put it back in the same position that it's in now?

    And alright, I'll give the impact gun a shot. Do you think that a new ring would solve my problem, or do you have any other ideas?

    Thanks man

    Also, what if the impact gun doesn't do the trick? Any alternate suggestions?
    Last edited by HungarianHunter; 09-13-2011 at 01:35 AM
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    So I assume you're bisexual then? you look like vin diesel..so you must like the cock
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    Lol, are you hitting on me?

  3. #23
    Hey guys,

    I've for a new issue. Got the ring replaced, as well as the balance shaft belt, and a few seals and the timing belt tensioner. So nowI the car runs, but not well.

    The code says random and multiple misfire. It will rev up to about 2500 or so RPM, and then stutter and now shift up until I let off the throttle, and won't go above 3k. The wires are fairly new, and the coilpacks are fine. I've changed the plugs too, but that was a while ago.

    I've noticed that once it warms up it runs much better, though not perfectly. One of therefore things the Haynes manual said it could be would be the EGR valve, could that be related to something like this? Other than that it could be the plugs, since the wires/coil packs are good. Whatcha guys think?

    I've also had success getting it to improve a bit by resetting the battery.

    Thanks a lot!
    Quote Originally Posted by blue8g View Post
    So I assume you're bisexual then? you look like vin diesel..so you must like the cock
    Quote Originally Posted by RAZ_76 View Post
    Lol, are you hitting on me?

  4. #24
    so it stutters when you drive it?


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  5. #25
    It does around 2500-3000 rpm, until it shifts up. Once I get up to the desired speed it cruises fine, it's just really laggy and stuttery when I try to accelerate.
    Last edited by HungarianHunter; 10-20-2011 at 08:51 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by blue8g View Post
    So I assume you're bisexual then? you look like vin diesel..so you must like the cock
    Quote Originally Posted by RAZ_76 View Post
    Lol, are you hitting on me?

  6. #26
    Senior TGC Member ricky_db's Avatar
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    i would say check your air flow sensor on the intake, the plug for it tt or the plugs themselves (check the gaping)

    im glad you got her back up this far a nood would have sold her already lol

  7. #27
    Sorry what do you mean "the plug for it or tt"? Are those acronyms or am I misunderstanding?
    Quote Originally Posted by blue8g View Post
    So I assume you're bisexual then? you look like vin diesel..so you must like the cock
    Quote Originally Posted by RAZ_76 View Post
    Lol, are you hitting on me?

  8. #28
    Does your engine sound loud when you're accelerating?


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  9. #29
    Not any louder than usual, it's always been kinda loud with the intake. It does sound louder in general though since everything got put back forever after he recent work, like when I first turn it on it's got a pretty low rumble, moreso than before.
    Quote Originally Posted by blue8g View Post
    So I assume you're bisexual then? you look like vin diesel..so you must like the cock
    Quote Originally Posted by RAZ_76 View Post
    Lol, are you hitting on me?

  10. #30
    okay, the reason I ask is:

    When I did my timing belt it sounded kind of weird at WOT and didn't have as much power. The idle seemed fine but it sounded different when I just revved it up.

    I was a single tooth off at the cam on the even set of pistons, as soon as it was corrected I was back to normal.


    I know you have an I4, but this is the only thing I can think of. Just check to marks to make sure this weekend sometime.


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  11. #31
    You think that goes with what's going on like the fact that I can sometimes reset the battery to make it run better, or letting it warm up?

    Does Keith's idea seem pretty accurate guys?

    Just cuz it's it's a PITA to get the covers off lol
    Quote Originally Posted by blue8g View Post
    So I assume you're bisexual then? you look like vin diesel..so you must like the cock
    Quote Originally Posted by RAZ_76 View Post
    Lol, are you hitting on me?

  12. #32
    TGC Regular Da_Prodigy's Avatar
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    I think Keith is right, your timing may be off. That would definately explain why your car is running rough and loss of power since your valves are not opening/closing in time. I know it's PITA to take the covers off but i would recheck your timing.
    If you really want to be sure before taking off the covers again, do a compression/CLT test, I'm pretty sure your all cylinder will come out low with a good amount of leakage on all cylinders if your timing is off.

  13. #33
    Alright guys, so here is where I stand:

    I redid the timing so everything is spot on, but the problem persists.

    Then my stepdad had a theory;

    I have a short in my system, which causes the stereo/dome light and all of the things on that circuit to shut off randomly, while I'm driving sometimes. I figured it's just an annoyance and I'll get to that issue after my engine was running well. I have a deep cycle optima blue top, which has become almost completely drained (the car has been sitting and out of commision for about a month and a half overall, so a short would have had time to drain it). I didn't think the two would be related, but he suggested that maybe since my electrical system is drained and weak that the ECU/injectors, all of that fuel management stuff maybe wasn't getting enough "juice" and couldn't keep up, causing the issue. So I charged the battery all night (disconnected from the car's electrical system), to see if he was right, because if he was then a fully charged battery would result in the car running well, until it drained again. Wasn't the problem, didn't fix it.

    While I was in there, I also checked all of the plugs, they're fine, and I also checked the fuel injectors, they are all working, and display the proper resistance.

    What should I try eliminating next?

    Thanks everyone.
    Quote Originally Posted by blue8g View Post
    So I assume you're bisexual then? you look like vin diesel..so you must like the cock
    Quote Originally Posted by RAZ_76 View Post
    Lol, are you hitting on me?

  14. #34
    Love you for keeping at it =) no homo


    so you had a bad battery then or is it still dying?


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  15. #35
    Haha thanks, your motivation always helps.

    The battery seems fine, it's just going to keep being drained until I fix that short, which I'm going to do soon, but I'm still kinda lost as to what my engine's problem is.

    Could the rev limiter be the issue?
    Quote Originally Posted by blue8g View Post
    So I assume you're bisexual then? you look like vin diesel..so you must like the cock
    Quote Originally Posted by RAZ_76 View Post
    Lol, are you hitting on me?

  16. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by HungarianHunter View Post
    Haha thanks, your motivation always helps.

    The battery seems fine, it's just going to keep being drained until I fix that short, which I'm going to do soon, but I'm still kinda lost as to what my engine's problem is.

    Could the rev limiter be the issue?
    nooo, not the rev limiter. I would find that short, it probably has something to do with your spark problem. Make sure your ground wires to your motor are still good.


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  17. #37
    When you say check the grounds to my engine are there specific wires I'm looking for?
    Quote Originally Posted by blue8g View Post
    So I assume you're bisexual then? you look like vin diesel..so you must like the cock
    Quote Originally Posted by RAZ_76 View Post
    Lol, are you hitting on me?

  18. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by HungarianHunter View Post
    When you say check the grounds to my engine are there specific wires I'm looking for?
    Yes, its a wire that goes from your engine to your firewall. I think it's a braided flat wire. I can give you some pics off my 4 banger if you want me to take some.


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  19. #39
    I found a nice little surprise when I went to go check the ground wire. It was attached to my firewall but not the engine lol.

    So I reattached it u der the throttle cable bracket, but that didn't solve it either.

    Aside from fixing that short, any other ideas?

    I'm gonna test the MAF so I can rule that out too.
    Last edited by HungarianHunter; 10-24-2011 at 05:24 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by blue8g View Post
    So I assume you're bisexual then? you look like vin diesel..so you must like the cock
    Quote Originally Posted by RAZ_76 View Post
    Lol, are you hitting on me?

  20. #40
    So I went to test the MAF, which entails first checking for power getting to the harness. I put the voltmeter ground in the engine ground, and when I went to put the other wire onto the power wire for the MAF it blew a fuse... does this mean my short is messing with the MAF?
    Quote Originally Posted by blue8g View Post
    So I assume you're bisexual then? you look like vin diesel..so you must like the cock
    Quote Originally Posted by RAZ_76 View Post
    Lol, are you hitting on me?

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