HungarianHunter's latest car troubles...

[Galantman03]

that means you're not metering right lol. IDK if you know the difference between a short and an open wire, so bear with me lol. Are you metering for power? or to see if there is a short? Because thats 2 different ways. First, I would see if the maf itself is still good, you know the male pins on the maf, find out which one is the ground, and which one is the power for the maf, touch the black lead on one pin and the red lead on the other pin, and make sure you have your meter in ohms, if you get a reading(which I'm sure the maf has a resistor in the honeycomb, you should see it) that matches that resistors value, then I would say your maf is good, its not shorted out, BUT you still need to find that short in the power wire or ground wire for the maf. so, what you want to do is meter from the maf connector(harness side) ground wire, and put the other lead some where to ground on the vehicle. You should get a reading of anywhere to 2-10 ohms I would say, BUT if you get 0 ohms, thats your short. if your ground wire is good, then you need to go from the harness side for POWER, without power acutally being there, and go to where the power comes from (aka fuse box, or ecu plugs) and make sure that the power wire is intact and you get some ohm reading. once again, 0 ohms is a short, and O.L. which means over load, out of limits, means you have an open in the wire. sorry for the crash course in electronic principles, its hard to explain in writing.

[HungarianHunter]

My short issue I believe has to do with some wiring I did before, it's nowhere near the MAF I was just trying to test the MAF to see if it was working properly using a guide I found, before I went and got a new MAF. But I'll do what you said and post my results.

BTW, Galantman (or anyone else reading this) do you know the simplest way to test if the MAF is bad or if it could be the cause or my issues? Do you guys think my problem sounds MAF related?

[Apex91]

My short issue I believe has to do with some wiring I did before, it's nowhere near the MAF I was just trying to test the MAF to see if it was working properly using a guide I found, before I went and got a new MAF. But I'll do what you said and post my results.

BTW, Galantman (or anyone else reading this) do you know the simplest way to test if the MAF is bad or if it could be the cause or my issues? Do you guys think my problem sounds MAF related?

Yeah, I actually just ran through MAF probelms with my volvo 850, unplug the MAF and drive around, when you unplug the MAF you send the ECU into a open loop of air/fuel mix, its a little rich so dont worry about the exhaust smell. But yeah, the ECU goes into default mode and keeps your air/fuel mix at a certain preset level, if your car runs alright with it unplugged then thats your problem.

The volvo would idle up and down between 400-1200rpm and bog real bad and even stall at times, then when you drove it it would studder under acceleration like your describing but it persisted through the rpm range. Unplugged the MAF, started up, idle smoothed out, drove around, ran everything was fine, only diff was the exhaust, it smelled the same, just more concentrated which is cause of the rich a/f mix.

[HungarianHunter]

Ok, so first I unplugged my MAF and started the car, it just died right away.

Then, I started the car and unplugged the MAF while it was idling, same result, it died.

Does this mean anything specifically?

Edit: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...unplugged.html

That says my car shutting off when the MAF is unplugged is a sign of a bad MAF. Can anyone confirm this?

[oakrdrs187]

^ I would say that it's a working MAF. Think about if it wasn't in operating condition and you unplugged it then there probably should be no difference how the car is running, opposed to it working and you unplug it and the car dies. That's just the way I see it.

Have you checked your ignition coils?

[Galantman03]

My short issue I believe has to do with some wiring I did before, it's nowhere near the MAF I was just trying to test the MAF to see if it was working properly using a guide I found, before I went and got a new MAF. But I'll do what you said and post my results.

BTW, Galantman (or anyone else reading this) do you know the simplest way to test if the MAF is bad or if it could be the cause or my issues? Do you guys think my problem sounds MAF related?

I would try to find the wiring that you did, see if you notice any chaffing or anything loose.
I don't know how to test the maf besides metering it, or swapping it into another galant.

[HungarianHunter]

Yeah the coil packs are fine, or should be, I grabbed a new one and swapped it with both coil packs and it didn't do anything. I don't remember resetting the ECU after I switched them out though, is that crucial?

So I went back to test the coil packs to double check, and the primary resistance on one of them was 10.16, and th Haynes manual says it should be between 15.3 and 20.7 ohms, and to replace the coil pack if it is outside of this range. This sound like my problem?

[keith6110]

Yeah the coil packs are fine, or should be, I grabbed a new one and swapped it with both coil packs and it didn't do anything. I don't remember resetting the ECU after I switched them out though, is that crucial?

Not for coil packs I wouldn't think. Just mainly sensors and anything that helps control airflow/fuel.

[HungarianHunter]

Alright then when I did the swap the first time it should have fixed it.
So even if my coil pack is out of resistance range swapping the new one should have taken care of it already right?

[keith6110]

I would personally rule out the coil packs if you did swap a new pack.

[HungarianHunter]

I'm really lost. Guess I'll just sack up and pay for a shop's hourly diagnostic rate.

[HungarianHunter]

So I needed new wires, car runs well. I'm really happy about that but my short is messing with a relay I think

This one:



I can hear a really fast ticking sound like the relay keeps activating, and it's resulting in no power, I can't even turn my car to acc. Even when I take the relay out the ticking remains, but much fainter, almost like it's not the relay itself but the circuit it's on?