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Thread: H.i.d kit 4 fog lights on 8th gen galant

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  1. #1
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    Icon7 H.i.d kit 4 fog lights on 8th gen galant

    I should b getting a H.I.D kit 4 the fogs this week. Where r some gd places I should mount the ballasts 4 the fog lights?
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    TGC Regular bgood12's Avatar
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    On driver side just in front of engine fuse box, where side of stock intake air bow would be. On passenger side on that upper shelf jus in front of the cylindrical shape the strut mount makes. I have mine in enclosures sealed and they have lasted since last year.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bgood12 View Post
    On driver side just in front of engine fuse box, where side of stock intake air bow would be. On passenger side on that upper shelf jus in front of the cylindrical shape the strut mount makes. I have mine in enclosures sealed and they have lasted since last year.
    Is there a way u can post pics of exactly where to mount them?
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  4. #4
    TGC Regular bgood12's Avatar
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    Ill try to Tom sometime

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    Quote Originally Posted by bgood12 View Post
    Ill try to Tom sometime
    ok thanx
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    TGC Regular bgood12's Avatar
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    Here ya go

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    TGC Regular bgood12's Avatar
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  8. #8
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    I like those locations, but I would not like the ballasts seen @ all n the engine bay. Is there other locations?
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  9. #9
    TGC Regular bgood12's Avatar
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    Well I retroed mine from a rx8 so those are enclosures with the ballasts inside. I think only way to hide them is to do a full wire tuck or fabricate a cover over those locations

  10. #10
    my fog ballasts are hidden in my front crash beam. you will have to remove the front bumper or the front wheels and go in through the front wheel wells.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Reelax View Post
    my fog ballasts are hidden in my front crash beam. you will have to remove the front bumper or the front wheels and go in through the front wheel wells.
    Do they hold up pretty gd, since there attached 2 ur crash beam? wht about heat coming frm the engine? can the ballasts withstand the heat?
    GWAP STACKIN MAKE'S IT HAPPEN

  12. #12
    had them in the crash beam for 6 years. have 4 more ballasts in the engine bay behind the head lights for 10 years well. the crash beam never gets hot.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Reelax View Post
    had them in the crash beam for 6 years. have 4 more ballasts in the engine bay behind the head lights for 10 years well. the crash beam never gets hot.
    Cool hey I have a ? do u think I should get a relay as well to stop the flickering? by any chance do u know wht causes the flickering?
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  14. #14
    TGC Regular bgood12's Avatar
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    Not sure as I don't have flicker but I bought my harness from theretrofitsource.com

  15. #15
    TGC Regular bgood12's Avatar
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    Also the harness has two relays with leds so if relay goes bad u can check the led and know where the problem is.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bgood12 View Post
    Not sure as I don't have flicker but I bought my harness from theretrofitsource.com
    ok, wht harness do I get? can u send me the exact link I'd like to get 1 just to b on the safe side. I'm also running H.I.D'S 4 the head lights as well.
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  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by GWAPS View Post
    Cool hey I have a ? do u think I should get a relay as well to stop the flickering? by any chance do u know wht causes the flickering?
    here, i'll just quote myself instead of writing it all again:

    Quote Originally Posted by Reelax View Post
    i recommend drawing power straight from the battery for HID via a heavy duty relay harness (40A relay) rather than relying on the stock wiring for power... HID needs alot of power (albeit for a very short time) to ignite and when both sides are igniting at the exact same time one or both sides might get "starved" due to the limitations of the stock wiring. the stock wiring was not designed for this large draw as halogen lighting does not need such a burst. being starved through the stock wiring will shorten the ballast's lifespan significantly. then after a while one or both of the ballasts will fail or start to flicker the HID bulb on start up. HID bulbs do not react well to constantly being turned on and off (flashing or flickering) and will ultimately go bad if the ballasts are not able to fully ignite them and supply them w/ steady power.

    i have 3 pairs of HID on my car (JDM headlights w/ seperate hi and low, and projector fog) using 3 independent relay harnesses. all my HID is powered directly from the battery via relays, bypassing the stock wiring and only using it as a low power trigger.
    also:

    Quote Originally Posted by Reelax View Post
    stick between 4250K and 6000K and you will b fine (w/ 4250K being sun white, 5000K being pure white, and 6000K having a little blue), anything over that will have too much color and will also b dim. 4250K is the brightest for a given wattage (35W); the farther you go from that number the dimmer the HID will be.
    Last edited by Reelax; 10-09-2012 at 06:03 AM

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    Quote Originally Posted by Reelax View Post
    here, i'll just quote myself instead of writing it all again:
    Can I get a 40 amp relay frm that retrofit online store?
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    I'm shooting 4 the blueish tint look, so I'll b running 8k 4 the head lights & no high beam. 4 the fogs I'm going 3k hands down, I think it's a sexy appeal 4 my ride when it comes 2 lighting.
    GWAP STACKIN MAKE'S IT HAPPEN

  20. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by GWAPS View Post
    Can I get a 40 amp relay frm that retrofit online store?
    most relay harnesses come w/ a 40A or higher relay. you don't just want the relay, you will need the whole harness. it wires directly to the battery w/ a fuse holder and fuse and ground then sends power to both ballasts in the pair through the relay (one input trigger, 2 high amp outputs and grounds). so the harness can end up being about 10+ feet in total wiring plus all the connectors. HID harnesses are so cheap now that there's no real benefit to making it yourself anymore.

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