Toyota 2JZ-GTE Engine on 8G Galant

**Samman** · 10-13-2011, 03:02 PM

Originally Posted by Stewi

Yikes. That driveshaft looks small. What material is it made from? Plain steel? Chromoly? Do you know the wall thickness? Judging by the floor tiles which are commonly 12"x12" that shaft is about 5 feet long. I am using 3.5" diameter aluminum on a shaft thats about 8" shorter and only delivering half the engines power to the rear. I would be very very cautious using that shaft you have there. Make sure you run a safety loop.

it is 135 cm. It is thick from the iside. It is galvanized steel. It could be replaced easily if it fails. Im trying to get the car running at the first place. Thanks a lot everyone. Wish me best luck

**eclipsh** · 10-13-2011, 07:46 PM

LOL, we're not trying to be haters, it is a great build. We just want you to be safe. When a drive shaft goes out it can be very dangerous. I was lucky mine didn't hit the gas tank or get under a tire to spin or flip my car. Mine bounced and lodged between the car body and the exhaust. It beat the hell out of the unibody in the process, leaving a big dent in the passenger front floor pan. It struck right at the corner where the steel was strongest too so there was a lot of force behind that hit.

Wall thickness is much less important than drive shaft diameter vs. length. A quick Google search for driveshaft calculator pulled up this one:

http://www.wallaceracing.com/driveshaftspeed.htm

With a 53 inch shaft at 2.5 inch diameter you'll handle plenty of torque. The problem is the critical speed. I don't have the calculations lying around for what our drive shafts spin at but I know that it was up around 5-6K rpms at 65-70 mph. If you drive at or above the critical speed of a driveshaft for long harmonics can cause it to start wiggling and tear it apart. They have some pretty good explanations on the site. To calculate your drive shaft speed you need your tire diameter and rear gear ratio. I'm sure you can get that stuff off the web quickly too.

**Samman** · 10-14-2011, 12:51 PM

Originally Posted by eclipsh

LOL, we're not trying to be haters, it is a great build. We just want you to be safe. When a drive shaft goes out it can be very dangerous. I was lucky mine didn't hit the gas tank or get under a tire to spin or flip my car. Mine bounced and lodged between the car body and the exhaust. It beat the hell out of the unibody in the process, leaving a big dent in the passenger front floor pan. It struck right at the corner where the steel was strongest too so there was a lot of force behind that hit.

Wall thickness is much less important than drive shaft diameter vs. length. A quick Google search for driveshaft calculator pulled up this one:

http://www.wallaceracing.com/driveshaftspeed.htm

With a 53 inch shaft at 2.5 inch diameter you'll handle plenty of torque. The problem is the critical speed. I don't have the calculations lying around for what our drive shafts spin at but I know that it was up around 5-6K rpms at 65-70 mph. If you drive at or above the critical speed of a driveshaft for long harmonics can cause it to start wiggling and tear it apart. They have some pretty good explanations on the site. To calculate your drive shaft speed you need your tire diameter and rear gear ratio. I'm sure you can get that stuff off the web quickly too.

I love you all guys
I really appreciate your support
Just seeking your advice ( I'll chk the website later after I get some numbers )
Thanks in advance

**RedGalant2k1** · 10-14-2011, 07:31 PM

My advice is when you have it running, you bring it to me to test...permanently... :)

**omegaht** · 10-14-2011, 08:28 PM

Originally Posted by oakrdrs187

I can just imagine RB26DETT 8G.

im saving money cause thats what i want to do!!
(and obiusly get a nissan gtr 34 v specII )

Originally Posted by RedGalant2k1

My advice is when you have it running, you bring it to me to test...permanently... :)

hahaha

**Samman** · 10-18-2011, 01:55 PM

I've decided to temporary keep the current drive shaft.
Since this engine has HKS 272 Cam, Siemens 650cc Injectors, Brian Crower Valves/Springs, ...
It must be tuned b4 so we can run it safely.
For now, I will start with Idle tuning.
Heading to the Tuning Shop

AEM EMU Seriers 2

AEM Boost Solenoid

AEM 3.5 Bar MAP Sensor

AEM O2 Sensor

AEM All-in-one Gauge

To be continued

**Stewi** · 10-18-2011, 02:13 PM

Good choice with the AEM. When you setup your boost settings using the boost solenoid make sure you tune the boost controller settings on the street. From my experiences it's more accurate than the dyno since the dyno can never duplicate driving loads exactly as they are during real driving

**omegaht** · 10-18-2011, 02:24 PM

Damm i want to see thar car runing now!!!

**Samman** · 10-19-2011, 01:47 AM

Originally Posted by Stewi

Good choice with the AEM. When you setup your boost settings using the boost solenoid make sure you tune the boost controller settings on the street. From my experiences it's more accurate than the dyno since the dyno can never duplicate driving loads exactly as they are during real driving

Thanks Brian, I'll keep that in mind

**DTP** · 10-19-2011, 09:02 AM

I'm drooling

Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

**kazan0va17** · 10-19-2011, 12:36 PM

Wow this is gonna be sexy :D

**Samman** · 10-19-2011, 01:58 PM

Car went out of the garage today at last

Check http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-RCyOJTmDc
It is a real RWD Galant

as ( Stewi ) said b4, Im gonna say: First 8g RWD swap. Completed.