Help!

[Volta Pikachu]

where are you from?

pomona CA, about 25 minutes away from LA

[galantlvr34]

Brake fluid is hygroscopic and chances are the whole system isnt new unless you bled it for ever seemingly as it's a good amount of fluid to get there. And hygroscopic means it absorbs any water in the system so you can't reuse it.

I honestly think that a rear disc swap is easier and then more servicable in the future

Yeah it is much more easier to replace pads and rotors then it is to do drum brakes.Drum brakes are a pain and i think with the rear disk swap it will stop better too.

[Volta Pikachu]

Yeah it is much more easier to replace pads and rotors then it is to do drum brakes.Drum brakes are a pain and i think with the rear disk swap it will stop better too.

XD haha peer pressure, okay i will do the rear disc swap ONE DAY XD when i have time and money, and more experience XD
but for now i gotta fix this to go to school XD

[Volta Pikachu]

so how would i go about using the brake bleeder? can anyone give step by step instructions on how to do it? cuz i dont' want to take off the drum brake cover, and the springs from the shoes too (how i did it the first time)

[galantlvr34]

Yeah the drum probably wont go on because you have to adjust the adjuster.Also if you have the emergency brake on that will cause problems with getting the drums on too.

[eksz]

Disc calipers are bleed the same way as drum brake wheel cylinders. Basic bleeding process is:
1. Wipe off the bleed screw and put a hose on the bleed screw
2. stick hose end into a jar with some brake fluid in it, makin sure the hose end stays under the fluid while you are doing this so you don't suck air back in the system
3. have someone pump the brake pedal and hold it and then you loosen the bleed screw. They have to keep holding the brake pedal until you close the bleed screw. FYI: The pedal will go all the way to the floor when you open the bleed screw but your helper just rides it down as far as it will go and holds it there. Once the bleed screw is closed your helper should pump the brakes again.
4. BLeed the wheel in the order listed. I usually bleed the wheel that had the leak first to get the majority of the air out of the system first and then do it in the order specified by the manual.
5. Do not reuse brake fluid that has been pumped thru the system no matter how good it looks.
6. Check your master cylinder fluid level continually. If you get air in from the master cylinder you basically are back to zero and have to start all over. Keep tipping it off as you go.

[Volta Pikachu]

Yeah the drum probably wont go on because you have to adjust the adjuster.Also if you have the emergency brake on that will cause problems with getting the drums on too.

i can get the drum brake on, but can i bleed the fluid without taking it off? i just don't wanna go through that whole process again,

also, does anyone know how to get that spring bolt thing that's attached to the brake shoe? cuz i figured if i can't get the brakes to work now, i might as well just do the whole drum brake replacement,

[eksz]

Leave the brake drum on the wheel while you bleed it or you will be right back where you started. There are vacumn units that can be used to suck the fluid through your brake lines. They allow you to bleed your brakes by yourself but as you need your car tomorrow, just get someone to help you.

[Volta Pikachu]

Disc calipers are bleed the same way as drum brake wheel cylinders. Basic bleeding process is:
1. Wipe off the bleed screw and put a hose on the bleed screw
2. stick hose end into a jar with some brake fluid in it, makin sure the hose end stays under the fluid while you are doing this so you don't suck air back in the system
3. have someone pump the brake pedal and hold it and then you loosen the bleed screw. They have to keep holding the brake pedal until you close the bleed screw. FYI: The pedal will go all the way to the floor when you open the bleed screw but your helper just rides it down as far as it will go and holds it there. Once the bleed screw is closed your helper should pump the brakes again.
4. BLeed the wheel in the order listed. I usually bleed the wheel that had the leak first to get the majority of the air out of the system first and then do it in the order specified by the manual.
5. Do not reuse brake fluid that has been pumped thru the system no matter how good it looks.
6. Check your master cylinder fluid level continually. If you get air in from the master cylinder you basically are back to zero and have to start all over. Keep tipping it off as you go.

question! so, my brake bleeder has the type of hose that connects from the bottle top, so how can i keep the hose under the fluid? is there any way to? and how will i know if the master cylinder has air in it?

[eksz]

You should see the bleed screw sticking out the back of the brake wheel cylinder. Post a picture of the spring thing you are asking about

[eksz]

If you have a brake bleeder kit (that's what it sounds like when you write "connects from the bottle top") just follow the instructions that came with it. Bleed kits are made to provide a seal to prevent air from being able to get sucked in thru the bleed screw

[Volta Pikachu]

You should see the bleed screw sticking out the back of the brake wheel cylinder. Post a picture of the spring thing you are asking about

i do see the bleed screw, but when i use the bleeder it shows up as 0 pressure on it (car off of course so im assuming it has to be on?) and the springs i was talking about were the ones inside the brake drum (although i guess it doesn't really matter now cuz i know i can use the bleeder on the screw)

[eksz]

I'd focus on just getting your car back together and forget about doing the whole drum replacement thing until you have more time toplay with it, i.e., a day when you have everything you need and don't have to have your car tomorrow. When you have it bleed properly the pedal will feel hard when you press on it and will not go down to the floor. When you are done test drive it carefully. Be sure to test brakes while driving in forward and reverse. If brakes fail remember you still have an emergency brake and can shift into neutral. Do your testing away from other people and vehicles if at all possible.

[eksz]

You do not need to have the car on. I don't understand what you mean when you write "it shows zero pressure"

[eksz]

Pressure comes from your helper pumping on the brake pedal and then holding it

[eksz]

Master cylinder can only get air in it if you let the fluid level drop too low. Just keep refilling the master cylinder fluid resivoir and you don't have to worry about it

[eksz]

The infor on how to bleed brakes was written under the assumption that you just had a piece of hose and not a brake bleeding kit. If you did not have a brake bleeding kit you could get by using a length of hose as long as it tighly fits the bleed screw and you keep the hose's other end under some brake fluid (its called a liquid seal) to keep air from being sucked back up the brake line

[Volta Pikachu]

so i bled the back two (couldn't do the front two well because the person who put the wheels on tightened the lug nuts way too tight, so i tried going through the wheels and i kinda could)
anyways id like to know what size wrench or ratchet exactly id need in order to take of the bleeder screws from the calipers,
also i can brake now, and the brake light turns off, but the thing about it is that 1. my handbrake has to be pulled VERY far back just to hold the car back a little, also
I HAVE THE PUSH IN THE BRAKES VERY FAR DOWN but they do work

and when i brake now my car makes a noise like a huge truck when it brakes, so i feel like i have about 20% braking power (makes sense cuz drum brakes do about 20% of the work if i remember correctly)

[Volta Pikachu]

update,

i just bled the two calipers and my brakes work pretty good now, still have to push the pedal in a little more than before, but it's good for now i guess,

but i still need to fix my parking brake : / it only works a little if i lift it all the way up

[eksz]

emergency brake adjustment is done by adjusting a nut on a threaded rod on a cable that feeds into the emergency brake handle. You'll need to remove the small tray on the console between the seats to get access. your e-brake should engage tight around the 4th or 5th click when pulling it up. If you don't have a Haynes manual, get one. It has a pretty good section on general maintenance items like this.