Building a 4g64 n/a motor?

[txgalant8]

Hey guys I'm in need of new motor but think my new plan is to buy spare motor and rebuild with little more pep and swap in when old one dies and seriously thinking about 5 speed tranny also but ill have to see what life throws at me. I've really been reading anything i can last couple days and don"t know why I've never been wanting to mod my g? so my next round of questions is how to build a more responsive motor? I've read some threads but i don"t wanna go crazy just a quick car not a hp monster. I really don't want to go dohc since i have no intention of going turbo...well not yet. So bigger tb plus the basic h/i/e what are everyone's opinion ? I'll keep searching around and see what i come up with. Thanks everyone and have to say I'm starting to love this place.
no homo lol

[Blue8g]

You won't gain much. The 4g64 is low compression, doesn't rev very high, etc etc.

[mrg7243]

talk to underrated he was N/A for a bit. I would like to see a fully bluerpinted, balance high comp 4g64 with ITBs and DOHC with custom ground N/A cams. Be interesting to see what it would put down

[DTP]

I was/am still looking at ITBs, too


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[mrg7243]

RPW.com

[txgalant8]

thanks guys, still looking into what i wanna do. might have to call one of local shops that do dsm mtors and see if they have any ideas also

[bgood12]

just my 2 cents. when looking at this engine lets be sure about what we want. if we just want a number to brag about then yes get a v6 or turbo it with the biggest things ever. but if you want increases accell while maintaining driveabliliy.
so obvious things for N/A are increased airflow, porting, and more efficient flow, so I would suggest 4 things. 1. buy a magnehelic gauge it measures vacuum in inches per water, is very accurate and sensitive u can make small holes in your intake before and after the filter and measure pressure loses, closer to zero pressure loss means better flow. you can also find the lowet pressure location to site a cold air intake or intake mouth. 2. get a stopwatch or a freind with stop watch. make a change then test it on the road dynos are great, but they cant account for real world intricacies of a cars movement, weight distribution etc. 3. read up on your cars elctrical signals i.e. how you iac read engine temp to adjust itself imagine what woudl happen if u put a potentiometer or resistor in a senser wire that means your iac would always allows the most air, this is a mute point, b/c iac only works during hard turns and cold starts but think about implications of a MAF or ERG. and 4. think about weight savings in your car. All this can be done cheaply without mod to internals. I think you would make modest results just doing these things would maximize the later internal and bolt on mods.