rotors not warped... so what is it???!!!

[master_visionary]

this would vibrate constantly. not under braking

I second that

[drm3613]

this would vibrate constantly. not under braking

This is exactly my thought. If my rim was off balance it would vibrate while i drive as well. Also if my wheel bearing is damaged wouldn't it also vibrate while I drive or while I break? Could I have damaged my caliper in some way? I kind of doubt it but I'm just throwing it out there

[mko]

jack the car up, grab the tire by the threads at 12 and 6 o'clock and try to move it in and out. then switch to 3 and 9 o'clock and do the same. you push with one hand and pull with the other. thats for the wheel bearing. if it moves by hand then imagine what breaking would do to it.

the control arm starts with the balljoint. follow back where the arm bolts up to the body and the front subframe - this is where the bushings are. inspect for torn up or squished rubber.

the effect also happens when theres either positive or negative camber.

what year is the car and what engine? any chance it is 99 and v6

[drm3613]

jack the car up, grab the tire by the threads at 12 and 6 o'clock and try to move it in and out. then switch to 3 and 9 o'clock and do the same. you push with one hand and pull with the other. thats for the wheel bearing. if it moves by hand then imagine what breaking would do to it.

the control arm starts with the balljoint. follow back where the arm bolts up to the body and the front subframe - this is where the bushings are. inspect for torn up or squished rubber.

the effect also happens when theres either positive or negative camber.

what year is the car and what engine? any chance it is 99 and v6

It's like I said my mechanic says its the lower ball joint that needs replaced but I didn't want to replace this and still have the same issue I wanted to make sure it is infact the lower ball joint. It's an 03 v4. Also what do you mean by positive and negative camber?

[Skyforger]

Dude, just check the wheel yourself, and look for play in the wheel as MKO said many times.

I'm on my phone, but I'll try and sum up camber:

If you're looking at the car head on, from the front, camber is the angle the tires are sitting on the ground, basically, postitive camber means the wheel is tilted away from the car, negative means the tire is tilted more inwards.

You have an 8G, I thought you had a 7G...

Also, it's not "V4", it's "I4". The 2.4L SOHC engine is what you have, or 4G64 as referred by regulars on here.

[drm3613]

Lol I stand corrected... So the Camber has to do with the alignment? Sorry about the stupid questions I only know the basics....

[drm3613]

Ok update... I bought a moot wheel bearing and assembly. I have it installed but I still have this same issue!!!! I'm frustrated with this... Could it be my control arm n ball joint or my axle? Idk what else to do...

[Skyforger]

If it's the ball joints or tie rods, there will be play in the front wheels if you check for it...

I doubt it would be the axle, as it would be constant, and you'd hear a hum from it.

[Daes9G]

A bad ball joint will cause vibration during braking. Do you not trust your mechanic?

[oakrdrs187]

Do the ball joint dude.

On another note I had a vibration on my car that started as soon as 2nd gear kicked in, ever time and went away when third came in not matter what speed, and punching it made it more noticeable, IMO it was bad. Then my axle started to click, and since both sides are under warranty at Autozone from my other G and they're the same, I went and exchanged both sides. Now the ride is smooth and clean with no vibrations. My point is I had vibrations due to "faulty/on their way out" axles when I was accelerating, then who's to say the vibrations shouldn't be present while slowing/stopping?

[eclipsh]

I'll add one more voice to the ball joint replacement. If your mechanic said it was bad get it replaced.

As for the advice about the ABS sensor, you can find out if you have ABS by turning the car on. If you have it a light should come on in your gauge cluster saying "ABS" just like the airbag light when the key first turns to on. You can also look under your hood and trace your brake lines from the master cylinder. If they all go to a big brick full of lines and electrical connections you have ABS. If they go to a little brick with no electrical lines you don't. No need to go hammer on your brakes when you have a potentially dangerous suspension problem.

Also, as a general rule, I suggest not throwing money at parts until you have verification they are bad from someone who has actually touched the car (you qualify if you take the time to check things properly). Did you have someone check your wheel bearing in person or do it yourself before putting a new one in? If not you may have wasted your time and money. Advice on websites like this should always be taken with a grain of salt. Good for ideas but useless without verification.

[drm3613]

Ok on march I changed all four struts, bar links, tie rods, and lower ball joints..and my thoughts are exactly.... If it were my rim it would vibrate regardless if I'm driving or braking. I'm not giving up I need to figure out what's wrong...

[drm3613]

I'm seriously considering a new mechanic... Ima need a new ball joint then.... Dang this sucks... Well at least I know now its not the wheel bearing... As said by "eclipsh" it was a waste of money. Lesson learned the hard way sadly

[eclipsh]

Did you change out the inner tie rods as well as the outer? I've got an inner tie rod on the driver's side that is worn and knocking every time I hit a bump. It also vibrates under hard braking. You can check it by popping the outer tie rod out of the knuckle and swinging the rod around. The whole inner tie rod should resist movement and stay put when you let go. Factory specs on the 7g say it should take 5 lbs of force to move it. If not it is worn and should be replaced.

Also, did you do an alignment after switching all those suspension parts out?

[stayer]

Speaking as an engineer. The cause of the vibration under braking, only one. This is the curvature of the rotors. All other problems, give the other symptoms. In another thread you asked about the replacement of bearings. I did not know about this topic. You have done wasting. You should do a quality check of the brake discs. This is done using the digital mechanism, Or on a lathe.

[drm3613]

Yea I did the bearing topic because of this. I changed them to prevent the vibration but it didn't work. A lathe? Isn't that the machine brake shops use to smooth out warped rotors or something like that?... I'm also hopping the new rims I will be receiving next month will stop the vibrating. Considering some users saying its probably my rims off balance

[drm3613]

Did you change out the inner tie rods as well as the outer? I've got an inner tie rod on the driver's side that is worn and knocking every time I hit a bump. It also vibrates under hard braking. You can check it by popping the outer tie rod out of the knuckle and swinging the rod around. The whole inner tie rod should resist movement and stay put when you let go. Factory specs on the 7g say it should take 5 lbs of force to move it. If not it is worn and should be replaced.

Also, did you do an alignment after switching all those suspension parts out?

Yea I changed the inner n outer tie rods in the front driver n passenger side. And heck yea I aligned it ASAP

[stayer]

Yes, this is done either with the help of digital mechanism (don't know how to say in English)1 photo. Or in the lathe (2 photo).

[Skyforger]

Stayer, the word you're looking for is "micrometer".

[stayer]

Understand, even a new disk can be warped in a one-intensive braking. When heavy braking is allocated gas and dramatically increases the temperature. When the disk is warped. If the rotor quickly cool (for example, drive through a puddle) curvature will remain forever. For tap of gases and reduce the temperature use the holes in the drive and channels. For Example