Car shakes when accelerating after lowered

[BIG_WILLY_831]

I agree something broke, is bent, or being overlooked. spend time on your front end and look for anything bolted to the body and engine that is designed to absorbe or diminish vibration. run the car and lift it if u need just keep it safe, check motor and trany mounts.

I've check mounts by pulling park brake step on the brake pedal firmly and shift from reverse to drive. sometimes I rev a little bit in rev and drive before I shift to look for exesive movement, I'm no pro but it's how I was taught it might help

Sent from my galaxy S3 using tapatalk 2

[BIG_WILLY_831]

And I just realized you can't lift and run the car and expect the noise to happen because of the change in working angle ma bad. Unless you use and alignment rack and lift from the lower control arm just a sughestion

Sent from my galaxy S3 using tapatalk 2

[HotWhip402]

When I slammed my car on 00-05 Eclipse springs which weren't meant for our cars, it was so low, my CV axles were kinked and caused a vibration at 15-25 mph and any mild/heavy acceleration. I raised the front up 1" and I don't have any issues anymore. The car sits level now and I have 2 fingers worth of fender gap.

[Xerojester]

I know that this is reviving an old thread, but I have this same problem. I was on coilovers. I replaced both axles and put the stock suspension back on. It still does the shudder and vibration. I will update if I find the culprit.

[Black8GV6]

probably busted endlinks

[Xerojester]

My car only has 19,000 miles on it. No matter what it is, it sucks.

[Silvertune]

How would end links cause vibration when you're accelerating?

People are stupid. When you drop your car 2 inches or more the CV joints bind and cause vibration. With your sloshy stock engine mounts and suspension the fact that you can feel vibration means your whole drivetrain is SHAKING BACK AND FORTH as you accelerate. You destory engine mounts, suspension bushings and more driving around like that. That's why the problem persists after putting it back to stock height.

[Xerojester]

Not in this case. See my thread about the solution to this problem. I have lowered many cars in my decades of tuning and never had axle biding. This felt like transmission issues and it turned out that it is a transmission issue that Mitsu even knows about.

[Silvertune]

Not in this case. See my thread about the solution to this problem. I have lowered many cars in my decades of tuning and never had axle biding. This felt like transmission issues and it turned out that it is a transmission issue that Mitsu even knows about.

Well lucky you. I've lowered more of THESE cars then you ever will. They fucking axle bind especially when they get older.

[Xerojester]

Why just Galants, I wonder? My 4G Eclipse never did and they have the same suspension.

[Silvertune]

No they don't. Not even close. 4g's use the 27 spline output shafts with chromoly CV cages that come in the Evo... Wayyyyy better hardware then Galants and 3g's. Besides 4g's are designed with a lower suspension geometry in mind from the get go. Our CV joints are at 90* at the monster truck ride height. A 3" drop puts a solid 15 degree angle into them which when introduced to load, causes binding.

[Xerojester]

Wait, you give me negative feedback for providing a real solution as opposed to your guess? Fuck you, you know-it all piece of shit.

[Silvertune]

No, fuck you worthless idiot piece of shit. Get the fuck out of here you novice. Go play with your legos.

[Galantman03]

Wait, you give me negative feedback for providing a real solution as opposed to your guess? Fuck you, you know-it all piece of shit.

"Know it alls" on this forum know their ish, and Silvertune is right.

[Xerojester]

Novice? I have been doing this since 1986. Funny that my Galant axle part number is Mr980076 and so is my Eclipse's. They must be entirely different.

[Xerojester]

I came in thus thread offering a real world right now solution to help others who might have the same issue. So anyway, for those who care, Mitsubishi has a service bulletin out about the TCC causing shuddering after lockup at 25 mph.

[Silvertune]

Cool. 28 years in automotive and you finally figured out that you should read the factory service bulletin. Something every car owner in history should do when they buy their fucking car. Especially mitsubishi owners with automatic transmissions. They're only the single most troublesome part in Mitsubishi history. In automotive history. Do you want a certificate for your meritocracy? A pat on the back for doing something logical? A cookie? What is it that will remove the sand from your vagina and make you smile once again? How many times to did you repeat kindergarten?

And you're right, I forgot you're dealing with the worthless fat pig garbage box land barge that is the 9g. Purchased only by those most horrendously misguided in either their taste in cars or unwillingness to drive any other vehicle in it's class before committing buyer's crime and jumping the gun on buying one. Yes, they use the same axles, but no, they are hardly comparable cars. Even the fucking wikipedia article on the 4g mentions suspension revisions allowing the 4g to ride lower. But hey, no one does research anymore.

Torque converter chatter is actually quite common, most people aren't smart enough to realize that their car is vibrating and half of them that do realize it don't realize it's not supposed to do it. Funny though how Mitsubishi just adds some molasses in and it goes away. I guess smooth slip is better then chatter. Fuck it probably lasts longer that way too and given the fact that nobody is retarded enough to put a lifetime worth of miles on a 9g it's never a surprise that it drives like a garbage truck.

All the same, you've offered no input on the initial and far more common problem which you spent two pages bitching about. Your torque converter didn't magically start chattering the day you put drop springs on your milk carton. The fact of the matter is mitsubishi uses a shitty CV joint setup and that's simply how it is, when ricers lower their car they start binding. Really the worst part about it is the grease, the chromoly cages only flex enough to keep from breaking when performance oriented enthusiasts make them something worth getting off the line but the grease overheats and quits lubricating further encouraging binding.

Ultimately however the problem comes from the CV joint wear pattern. At stock height the joint will wear a 3/4 inch line into the CV cup, a surprising amount of material loss occurs. Then when the car gets dropped the lobes have to travel onto areas in the cup that are not worn down causing a drivetrain oscillation from the immediate acceleration and deceleration bumps as it travels up and down the ridges.

And yes. It takes no more than 19000 miles in one of these barges to get the wear patterns.

QE Fucking D.

[BIG_WILLY_831]

I came in thus thread offering a real world right now solution to help others who might have the same issue. So anyway, for those who care, Mitsubishi has a service bulletin out about the TCC causing shuddering after lockup at 25 mph.

Thanks. I am one the the few who believe not every car has the same problem regardless of how common it is there is always that possibility of it being something else. I usually take forum answers for a grain of salt anyways it just gives me something to check i might not have thought of during my diagnostics not the absolute finas answer.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

[Silvertune]

Ah yes... one of those people who think they're magically above the obvious defects in a platform. I hate customers like you who come barging in and whine about some other world problem when it's just as basic as it gets. The drama must turn them on.

Of course, nobody is saying vibration can't stem from other sources. Everything in your drivetrain spins, oscillation of momentum in infinite directions comes into play. But the origins of this thread lie in vibration starting with the lowering of the chassis which in the life of a vehicle is an instantaneous event and wear is not instantaneous which means only geometry can be the cause. Our poor fellow OP just happened to develop a manufacturer boo boo while his crap box was chewing up it's CV joints and he may be applauded for actually digging up a solution but it can't detract from what should be as obvious as a stripper spreading her cheeks to anyone who decides to lower their car that issues with the CV joints are going to happen whether or not their torque converter needs a shot of KY.

[BIG_WILLY_831]

So are you gonna offer a solution or keep writing a book about how its not this and not that. so far all I been reading is its the cv but you offer no solution the the problem you only keep yellig out "ITS THE CV!!!!" At least the other guy offers a solution. It might not work for everyone but like I said A grain of salt. oh and im not a "customer" I may not have all the experience in the world like everyone like to boast about but I am a tech & I fix cars. I don't know everything but I know enough to keep my job and keep expanding my hands on ezpiriance and learn as much as I can thought research, manuals, and other techs.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk