Maybe Silvertune misunderstood the nature of my above post. I was trying to offer an alternative solution for people, like myself who replaced their axles and still had issues. I am used to being on sites that legitimately try to help each other out and not have a pissing contest, like Evolutionm, club4g, and ls1gto...
I agree just pitch in ideas help each other and move on not try to prove how superior you and your knowledge is or like you said have a pissing contest. Like I was told as a lil kid " if you don't have nothing nice to say shut the fuck up"Originally Posted by Xerojester
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BIG WILLY 9G FOO..........
So get this: the dealership put this stuff in my tranny called: Shudder Fixx. No joke. I wonder if they carry a can of Go Fast?
I never once said it wasn't a good thing to bring up. Obviously the average person isn't smart enough to look up the service bulletins on their car either prior to owning or even when they do. Most people are aware of mitsubishi paint cancer problems, broken wavesprings but little else.
Likewise I never once said I was the best, mentioned superiority or anything even remotely related. Forums are a game, Big Willy you little sniveling piece of worthless trash. I have spread more information amongst these forums then you could comprehend in your head if you read half of it, doesn't mean I have to be nice about it. In fact it's the very reason I get pissed off when idiots like you come on here bantering about shit that should be a given. I've spent more time attempting to share information with the masses than you will sucking off other idiots with for stupid mods over the course of your existence on this planet. Naturally I get annoyed when people fail to take 30 seconds to search out information that I spent hours compiling and posting. Furthermore, most of the problems people deal with and beneath most forms of logic. Read the fucking service bulletin. No fucking shit.
Again you spent all this time writing all these words and your still a idiot piece of turd putting worthless input claiming to be superior. You ain't shit silvertune and all your nagging and winning makes you look like a female on her rag... keep my name out your mouth and if posting and sharing pisses you off so much STOP POSTING ON FORUMS and go talk to yourself because oviously no one cares what you have to say.
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BIG WILLY 9G FOO..........
Guys, what the fuck? Can we be civil? Because If not I need to dust off the banhammer. Quit name calling, that goes for everybody. No more warnings.
-Greg
"I smashed up the grey one, bought me a red;
Every time we hit the parking lot we turn heads!"
-Pimp C, "International Players Anthem"
would raising the engine accomplish a fix to this binding issue? just spit ballin
2001 Galant 2.4 USDMOld ones
2X BMW E34 Blaaackkkk
Isuzu Trooper mountain spec
Technically yes it would. Removing the angle from the cv joints is all it takes. That said raising the drivetrain is pretty much impossible. It'd be easy to lower, but not raise, due to how it's mounted.
Has anyone actually successfully done the spacer on the axle and had it work?
just a little cut here little weld there some fabrication. shouldnt be that hard if you have the right tools and experience ? or am i missing something? you would only need to rise the motor mounts by like 2 inches at the most
2001 Galant 2.4 USDMOld ones
2X BMW E34 Blaaackkkk
Isuzu Trooper mountain spec
Go look at your transmission mount and tell me how easily that could be raised. The passenger mount too.
Besides, raising the engine will astronomically ruin your handling. To the point that the car literally cannot take corners with any aggressive speed what so ever. The relation between center of gravity and mounting points for suspension components is critical.
Just don't lower your car that far. It's stupid. A straight two finger gap is clean and doesn't ruin CV joints (at least in 3g's) and I've dropped galants 2 inches without problems. If you're going to go lower than that you deserve to have problems because it's dumb.
As for the axle spacer the only one I Know who claimed it works is everybody's favorite banned member. The problem with the spacer is no standard washer actually fits over the CV splines without overlapping the knuckle and there's no way to keep it centered behind the hub. Beyond that moving the hub back moves the ABS ring out and you get the ABS light and no function from the system. While that won't matter to people with low trim level 8g's, it will matter to anyone else.
yeah i was thinking about this on the jdm when i had the trans out i think cutting the mount or even makeing a new one wouldn't be more than a days work. but im not going to be lowering mine for while i was just creating conversation
2001 Galant 2.4 USDMOld ones
2X BMW E34 Blaaackkkk
Isuzu Trooper mountain spec
Cast aluminum is outside the welding capabilities of even a significant percentage of very skilled welders. Especially the crap Mitsubishi uses which is like a combination of butter and sand as far as working properties. The "easy" way would be to pour you're worn urethane mounts and drill holes higher in the bushing but that'll limit mount life and make it very uncomfortable in terms of chassis vibration.
Also keep in mind that the average person looking to drop 3 inches doesn't typically harbor any fabricating skill to begin with.
Sadly, on the 9g, a two finger gap is almost three inches with our monster-truck wheel gap. lol
This is mine with a 2" drop:
This is exactly what I figured. It did not sound viable.
Last edited by Xerojester; 05-08-2014 at 10:54 AM
There are a ton of variables that come in to play really. The general trend is that when these things get dropped past a certain point the CV's bind but I've dealt with some examples where that isn't the case. Take gojirars car, dropped probably 4 inches on coilovers and his car accelerates smoothly. Now, that is the four banger. The cv binding issues increase astronomically with output, 95% of the cars I deal with the problem on are V6's. Particularly when the 3.8 comes into play. But new dealership axles have remedied it in a couple instances.
I've done a couple 3.8's in cars that were already on aftermarket axles (parts store cheapos) and those axles have blown in a single autox event or in other cases not lasted a month of daily driving. On one car I had they bound up with brand new parts store axles. These all being manual cars mind you.
The OEM joints are the best we've got since DSS Doesn't make our axles anymore and when they did they costed twice a set of coilovers anyway. If I want to make a care look real nice I'll drop it down no more than two inches and run one step up a tire size. Just the little bit makes a huge difference and it typically increases performance anyway. That said, my efforts have always been for performance. To me, not dropping way down isn't a big deal because I'd rather have a little more wheel gap than shear axles off making 500 pounds of torque.
^ what about smoothing out the wear areas on the axle cup itself?
Would that get rid of that vibration?
What about using brand new oem axles after you lower it?
I know that evo cups can't fit the I4 because evos dont have stub axles on the cups, but do v6 axle cups have stubs? Or are they like evo axles?
AWD Converted Forward Facing 6466 E85 EVO 8 ECU Powered 2003 Galant
It may be different on the 9Gs, but I can drop mine another one to two inches without altering too much of the axle angle (coilovers only, since I can adjust the camber pretty heavily). Keep in mind, mine is a 2.4l, so I don't have the same issues as the V6. One other guy on here that is also on club4g.or is slammed. He has no axle binding at all. Of course over time, that may very well change. It seems hit-or-miss.
after reading this thread, I am now afraid of lowering my 9g. Maybe I'll just stick with 18's
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2003 Mitsubishi Galant ES
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