Need Help from the TGC family

[Galantfan88]

Well it has come down to this my good friends...I want to sell my 2002 Galant. I have put so much time and effort into it and as of right now I give up becasue I do not have any more time to really work on her. The engine is running and sounds strong but for some reason compression all across the 4 cylinder its showing 95 psi and when doing the wet test it jumped up to 180 psi. I do not know if there is really something wrong with the rings or they just didnt seat yet,, but what ever it is I can not do this no more.

I am so tired right now and want to sell her but do not know for how much...what is a good price to sell this car for with somany mods done to it? She drives around with a basic map on it and its running extreamly rich but still pulls but after running for almost an hour she starts to die out, mostly feels like the spark on the spark plugs are dying out. Everything else works except for the speedo did not wire that up at all. Can anyone help me figue out what to price her at. Thanks for the time and help guys...this does not make me happy but like my friend says "If it becomes more of a chore than fun, time to sell it."

Mods Done:
Exterior:
Full JDM conversion (Needs re-painting but can hardly tell)
Evo 8 rims
Eibach springs 1.25'' drop
KYB SHOCKS AND STRUTS
Prothan bushings on front and read sway bars
tie bar
Brand New tie rods and control arms

Interior:
ProSport gauges


Engine: (Handle up to 600 hp)
2.4l 4 cyl engine 86.5 stock to a 87.0mm bore size (.20) over
CP Pistons 87mm / 8:5.1 compression
Eagle Rods
Stock 100mm brand new crank shaft
Clevite 77 main, rod bearings, and thrust
ARP main studs
Balance shaft delete
AC Delete

Head:
Single cam RPW Stage 3 turbo camshaft (272/272) Lobe Centre Line 112 Degrees
Beehive valve springs
OBX camshaft
OBX turbo manifold
2.75'' custom exhaust
2003 outlander Intake manifold
OMNI POWER 4 BAR MAP SENSOR
Evo 8 Throttle Body
Evo 8 AEM fuel rail/w aeromotive FPR/WALBRO fuel pump
Evo 8 stock injectors with resistor box
HKS Twin Power Ignition/thicker spark plugs...forgot the name.
Cosmetic head gasket
Evo 8 Mishimoto radiator
Mishimoto intercooler
13 row oil cooler
Mishimoto racing fan
ARP Head studs
Brakes:
Evo 8 BREMBO front brakes

Turbo:

TURBONETICS TURBO

COMPRESSOR HOUSING: A/R 60 "3" IN, 2" OUT

COMPRESSOR WHEEL: 60MM INDUCER, 82MM EXDUCER

CHRA: OIL COOLER

EXHAUST HOUSING: T3 A/R 48

EXHAUST WHEEL: T31 STAGE III

Tranny:
Switched from Auto to 5 speed Manuel transmission from an 3g eclipse
Short shifter with stiffer bushing and bras bushing on shifter links
ACT Clutch
fidanza flywheel

Computer:
Evo 8 ECU with a Boomslang conversion harness to match into my engine harness.

[Blue8g]

You're better off parting out.

I doubt you'll get more than 3-4k even with all the mods it has.

[Galantfan88]

You're better off parting out.

I doubt you'll get more than 3-4k even with all the mods it has.

Thats what I was afraid of, and finding the time to part it out.

[carl3g]

Jesus, I honestly think you shouldn't sell it.

If you must, id say part it as well. Im guessing 8k is too much? Im not familiar with the costs of gallants yet.

[keith6110]

Just keep it if you have a place to store it. You'll have time at some point to come back and take another whack at it I'm sure. You'll never get your money back out of it even if you take the time to part it out. Just saying; you'll be happier keeping it and figuring it out another day.

[littlejuanito]

Well it has come down to this my good friends...I want to sell my 2002 Galant. I have put so much time and effort into it and as of right now I give up becasue I do not have any more time to really work on her. "If it becomes more of a chore than fun, time to sell it."

I share your feeling and although my car is not modded at all, it is in dire need of maintenace repairs and I'm already contemplating 190,000 miles. I feel like sometimes is not worth the time and money when the car is only worth around 3K at best. Shoot, I even spent $1200 (what my car is probably worth now) replacing a busted timing belt.

I'm also debating selling it to buy a newer-less mileage car

[fatal1]

the majoprity of people wont appreciate the value of the car nor the parts in it. we may know what is in it and how much time and money it cost but most people will look at it as a good looking non running car lol. you will certainly make more money parting it out. and if you do plan on selling it as a whole, ir would really be tough to get more then 2k for it

[Isaurio]

Wtf dude. Dont sell it. Bro you can not just do engine work and slap a turbo and change the ecu and call it a day. You need a super tune when you do a block from scratch. If you runing the stock evo map, it wont work. Since the 64 is a bigger bore and deck then the 63. Also higher cams needs tuning. Big time. If you dont have compression maybe is a bad timing advance and fue on the ecu map. If you running to rich you losse power and the spark wont burn the fuel stalling the car. Just think about it. Tune the crap out of it. And take it slow. You need 1k of break in. The engine wont settle before that. Dont expect to run 100% just of a few starts. Ecu needs weeks to get a stable fuel trims with your settup to get you running 100%. i could change one thing of the map to make the car run like shit. What i mean you need a tune and work and work with the computer.

[underated]

are the numbers pretty even across all 4 cylinders? just because they are reading 95 doesnt mean something is wrong. you have lower then stock compression ratio and you have a 272 cam. both of those things will lower you readings. have you retarded the timing at all? if so that will lower your numbers also. you said the engine sounds strong so what the problem? "Its running rich" i dont see anything about injectors on that list get it tuned and enjoy it. you cant do things half assed and expect it to turnout well. yes modding a car is a lot of time, effort and money. there are a lot of nice cars on here i dont think people really understand what goes into it to correctly do things.

good luck to you bro i hope you keep it and everything turns out well for you.

[deeznutz]

Dude selling or parting out at this point is foolish and dumb your almost there with your build you have all the right tools but a poor execution! Your whole problem is tuning what you need to do is have someone like Isaurio or Matt set up a base tune and correct your maps, you shouldn't have even have started it without a base tune your risking a freshly built motor and if you continue to run it your going to wind up with not much to part out you'll be left with a junk motor. There are plenty of people here that understand your frustration but you have to push. There's too much time and money put into it already to give up now when it can all be corrected by 1 or 2 people

[Galantfan88]

Wtf dude. Dont sell it. Bro you can not just do engine work and slap a turbo and change the ecu and call it a day. You need a super tune when you do a block from scratch. If you runing the stock evo map, it wont work. Since the 64 is a bigger bore and deck then the 63. Also higher cams needs tuning. Big time. If you dont have compression maybe is a bad timing advance and fue on the ecu map. If you running to rich you losse power and the spark wont burn the fuel stalling the car. Just think about it. Tune the crap out of it. And take it slow. You need 1k of break in. The engine wont settle before that. Dont expect to run 100% just of a few starts. Ecu needs weeks to get a stable fuel trims with your settup to get you running 100%. i could change one thing of the map to make the car run like shit. What i mean you need a tune and work and work with the computer.

I know man I must be going mad or something. Im so use to mustang motors and how quickly they are built and running making big number, and thats what I get for hanging out with mustang owners.lol The car has not reached the 1k mark yet so maybe I am taking this alil to far. Motor sounds great only this is at first when starting the motor it has trouble catching idle but after i start second time with alil rev it catches on. No leaks nor ticking sounds, nor smoke from the pipe which means no birning oil expect at first cold start up after goes away. Right now it hold idle at 1k RPM and has 18 psi in oil pressure on worm engine. Your right about the tunning, it needs alot of time spent on tunning and makeing everything work together. I thought after a lil bit of time the compression would build, I didnt think it took after 1k miles. Timing has not been delt with yet and I believe they did placed a bass map from an Evo 8 so Im ganna have to have them really work on it. Thanks bro for everything and giving me strength to keep going.

are the numbers pretty even across all 4 cylinders? just because they are reading 95 doesnt mean something is wrong. you have lower then stock compression ratio and you have a 272 cam. both of those things will lower you readings. have you retarded the timing at all? if so that will lower your numbers also. you said the engine sounds strong so what the problem? "Its running rich" i dont see anything about injectors on that list get it tuned and enjoy it. you cant do things half assed and expect it to turnout well. yes modding a car is a lot of time, effort and money. there are a lot of nice cars on here i dont think people really understand what goes into it to correctly do things.

good luck to you bro i hope you keep it and everything turns out well for you.

Hey man, I havnt retarted the timing at all...right now cam set at 0 degrees. Like I said before I thought by now comprerssion would build at least 120 psi, and when I did a wet test it jumped at 180 so that got me so worried.lol Right now I have stock Evo 8 injectors 550cc and I dont think Turbo Trix really looked into what I have in the engine. I asked if they needed to know and they told me no.lol Next time when I go imma have to really lay it down to them. I have put alot of time and money and I mean alot of money into her and it would be a sham and stupid move of me to sell it just like that with out really breaking in the motor. Thanks buddy.

[Galantfan88]

Dude selling or parting out at this point is foolish and dumb your almost there with your build you have all the right tools but a poor execution! Your whole problem is tuning what you need to do is have someone like Isaurio or Matt set up a base tune and correct your maps, you shouldn't have even have started it without a base tune your risking a freshly built motor and if you continue to run it your going to wind up with not much to part out you'll be left with a junk motor. There are plenty of people here that understand your frustration but you have to push. There's too much time and money put into it already to give up now when it can all be corrected by 1 or 2 people

Well as I was told by Turbo Trix theres a base map on the ECU right now but not sure if its the right one after this a couple of post from people on this forum.lol There are times when I have no idea if I can really trust Turbo Trix or not. Should I just take it straight to a tunner and have it tuned fully? Right now its eating up gas like crazy.

[deeznutz]

That would be a step in the right direction but I think Matt or Isaurio would be alot cheaper for you and more trustworthy not only that you might get a Lil education as well!!!! Is that base map for what's in the car now? You shouldn't even run it to its full potential till its properly broken in anyways.

[Isaurio]

^^^ you right my friend

No problem bro. We are here to help you out. Just to give you a little push

You need to tune and run the car for min 750 miles, 1k to be safe. On the mean while you need to tune the computer on the breaking process. Since the value will change as the engine breaks in and settle.

Questions for you....

1. What MAF are you using? stock 501 or evo 399?
2. What are the injectors scaling and latency on the ROM
3. What MAF scaling, filter and smoothing are you using *current on the rom*
4 What are your idle timing map looks like. from 750RPM to 1000RPM. Loads from 0 to 40 loads
5. What is the min temperature at close loop. I ask this you should have a value of 40 with 272 cams NOT 7.

[Galantfan88]

^^^ you right my friend

No problem bro. We are here to help you out. Just to give you a little push

You need to tune and run the car for min 750 miles, 1k to be safe. On the mean while you need to tune the computer on the breaking process. Since the value will change as the engine breaks in and settle.

Questions for you....

1. What MAF are you using? stock 501 or evo 399?
2. What are the injectors scaling and latency on the ROM
3. What MAF scaling, filter and smoothing are you using *current on the rom*
4 What are your idle timing map looks like. from 750RPM to 1000RPM. Loads from 0 to 40 loads
5. What is the min temperature at close loop. I ask this you should have a value of 40 with 272 cams NOT 7.

Well to answer question # 1 Im using speed density, they placed an OMNI POWER 4 BAR MAP SENSOR on the car. All other questions I have no clue bc I didnt plug the car in I left it with Turbo Trix to figure most of this stuff out.

I tried to message you but its full so imma just place the message here for you:

Hey bro, you seem to know alot about setting up an ECU to where it needs to be and I mean alot. If you have time or any way of helping me please let me know. Can you help me tune my ECU to where it needs to be? If you dont its ok man I still have Turbo Trix, but I would need to keep a close eye with them. Let me know buddy and thank for your help and time.

[underated]

definatly let Isaurio help you out man. one thing you'll learn and im sorry you had to learn this way is evo tuners dont care about anything other then evo's. like you said yourself they didnt even ask you what you had done to the car. you gotta find people like Isaurio or andrew over on club3g who care about this platform enough to tune your car right.

dp you have a tatrix cable and ecuflash and evoscan?

[Isaurio]

Yeah man. Email me at [email protected]. Or text me lol. Im trying to resolve a membership problem.

Uff SD. Im not a fan of SD. One when you tune with SD you cant not mod the car without going back and tune the maps again. Is like you tune the computer everything is great but later you go crazy and want to change the intake mani or head. You need to go back and re-tune all the maps again because the values will change and you dont have nothing to self re-adjust like the maf.

When you in SD. Is only reading from the maps and o2 for trims. If the map are off just a little the whole shit is fuck up. The maf is great because it self adjust when you add any mods to the engine.

Your maps needs to be 110% to run SD. If not you will have cold start probles and other issues.

I will go back to a evo maf for the breaking procces then when the maps are 100% stable you could jump to SD. Only my 2 cents.

Go point. You need a tatrix cable and evo scan to do some logs. Also ecuflash to pull the rom. Also a knock sensor to see any knock so u wont fuck up the pistons and other parts. And a afr wideband port so u could log your afrs.

[Galantfan88]

Yeah man. Email me at [email protected]. Or text me lol. Im trying to resolve a membership problem.

Uff SD. Im not a fan of SD. One when you tune with SD you cant not mod the car without going back and tune the maps again. Is like you tune the computer everything is great but later you go crazy and want to change the intake mani or head. You need to go back and re-tune all the maps again because the values will change and you dont have nothing to self re-adjust like the maf.

When you in SD. Is only reading from the maps and o2 for trims. If the map are off just a little the whole shit is fuck up. The maf is great because it self adjust when you add any mods to the engine.

Your maps needs to be 110% to run SD. If not you will have cold start probles and other issues.

I will go back to a evo maf for the breaking procces then when the maps are 100% stable you could jump to SD. Only my 2 cents.

Go point. You need a tatrix cable and evo scan to do some logs. Also ecuflash to pull the rom. Also a knock sensor to see any knock so u wont fuck up the pistons and other parts. And a afr wideband port so u could log your afrs.

Damn I should of listend to my friend, he told me not to use it bc I was going to run into problems.

Reason why I used SD was bc the turbo was alil to close to the fan and I could really fit the intake pipe and MAF there but Ill find a way around it since the MAF is a better choice for this. Now question is do I have to use an Evo MAF or can I still use the Galant MAF bc I still have the in the trunk of my car?

Yeah Turbo Trix was a hit or miss bc when I brought my car to them it was kinda weird at first. I told them I needed a basic tune and all this guy named Keith said was ok and didnt ask for my keys or what was in the engine or what mods I have done. I mean at lest they got it started but still. I need someone that will be careful and is dedicated to this stuff...its really hard to find people like that out there.

Also forgot to ask...how the heck do I take the SD off? I believe its loaded up on the ECU i have

[deeznutz]

Being that your boosted and the ECM should have the scaling already the evos is the one you should use..

[Isaurio]

Yeah. I will go with a evo maf or a eclipse gts maf. Yes the SD is all in the rom within the ECU. You could always flash back a stock rom. We could find the stock rom with the current ECU ROM ID you have now.