Need Help from the TGC family

[Isaurio]

Nice i will have to give them a call.

[Guzm4n]

Link to clean bugeye: http://www.akumamotorsports.com/medi...akuma-wrx.html
The owner is named Dmoney on NASIOC and its an award winner.

His ride was featured on modified.

[qnz]

havent been following up on this thread. Don't take it to Akuma. Dont take it to turbotrix. lol

Jesus, I was in the same position as you. My car looked great but ran real shitty for 1/2 a year. It took me 3 different "pro" tuners before I found one that actually knew what they were doing. After seeing how a real pro tuned, I could tell how much the other shops just didnt care. When you finally get your car dialed in, you will love it again. This I know

[qnz]

Whoops. Guess I'm a few posts too late. Akuma is the new shop in town but same old stories that you hear about every other North East shop.

They have some good reviews too, but I hear enough things that would make me cautious about them also

[Blue8g]

This is partially true wisco only requires a 1 hour break in period at mild driving but the problem isn't there he is not fully tuned yet and that where the problem lyes so hard and fast is not a wise choice!!!

Didn't even think about that, good call.

[qnz]

Pssh, break the engine in hard and fast.

Reported

Some people claim that this is the best way to break in a engine. Ive seen cars with single digit miles on the odometer making passes on the track

[deeznutz]

Didn't even think about that, good call.

When I build an engine trust me I go in on it right out the gate but as a safety precaution making sure that everything else is in place first is the smart way to go. When I finished up my current 3.5 and pulled it out the driveway Isaurio was like take it easy, I said ok 2 seconds later I dumped the clutch at 5000 and left 2 tire marks for 20 feet... Lol

[Isaurio]

Some people claim that this is the best way to break in a engine. Ive seen cars with single digit miles on the odometer making passes on the track

Not every engine is the same. You said it single passes. I bet after that they need to change the headgasket or even all the engine berings. A american race long block like ford is different than a jdm block. So the break in are different. If you want a engine to last a long time it needs to be donde the right way.

[Isaurio]

When I build an engine trust me I go in on it right out the gate but as a safety precaution making sure that everything else is in place first is the smart way to go. When I finished up my current 3.5 and pulled it out the driveway Isaurio was like take it easy, I said ok 2 seconds later I dumped the clutch at 5000 and left 2 tire marks for 20 feet... Lol

Lol. Exacly. Look it now. Fuck up clutch. Lol. U should have listen to me.

[deeznutz]

Lol can I help it if the clutch is crap! It would have broke either way...

[mrg7243]

Not every engine is the same. You said it single passes. I bet after that they need to change the headgasket or even all the engine berings. A american race long block like ford is different than a jdm block. So the break in are different. If you want a engine to last a long time it needs to be donde the right way.

Every motor nowadays is broke in the same, back in the 60s 70s and 80s the thought was to go slow and gentle, this was because most shops were not tight with the clearances and the cylinder honing process was not as advanced. The rings would take awhile to seat, now that different. Buschur, AMS, and many more now have a hard and fast break in. The guy who did my head in Maryland, builds 8 second street motors on a daily basis and that is how he tells his clients to break them, hard and fast.

[Blue8g]

A perished clutch doesn't mean the engine was broken in improperly lol

[deeznutz]

^^^ true it was just crap spec clutch

[Galantfan88]

These stories can go either way but just like Isaurio said, each engine is different. I know American engines you can just build it right up and the best way to brake in a muscle engine is to brake it in fast, but for imports it could be different. Iv had different people and shops tel me different. I rather be safe than sorry...so far its been sorry for me.lol but after the leak down test that will give me the idea whats going on in the engine.

[Blue8g]

Call up Cosworth haha. They make parts for the 4g6x engines and if I'm going to trust anyone in the world, its them

[Isaurio]

^^^ true it was just crap spec clutch

you found out is crap. But remember we added some extra ponie to the equation and torque. If you would take it easy maybe she would be ready for tune.

[Isaurio]

Call up Cosworth haha. They make parts for the 4g6x engines and if I'm going to trust anyone in the world, its them

What you not understanding is that the whole engine was not made of cosworth parts. There are mix parts in there, every part has their breaking points. Thats why you need to tune the eninge get a few miles on each parts so it could settle and advoid variables.
We not in a rush here to break in the engine. We want to be safe on what is going on with the internals.

[Blue8g]

What you not understanding is that the whole engine was not made of cosworth parts. There are mix parts in there, every part has their breaking points. Thats why you need to tune the eninge get a few miles on each parts so it could settle and advoid variables.
We not in a rush here to break in the engine. We want to be safe on what is going on with the internals.

Its your car now?

[mrg7243]

Here is some information I want to get out there.

The 4g63 is not a small block Chevy. You do NOT crank it with the fuel disconnected or the ignition unplugged to prime the oiling system. If you truly wanted to try and prime the oiling system before starting a new engine you would need to leave the timing belt off and crank the oil pump seperately. Same thing if you DID have a small block Chevy, you'd spin the oil pump through the distributor hole.

This next stuff applies to OUR ENGINES. I don't care about some other shop or some other machine shop that did YOUR work. Don't ask as I could care less.

For our engines. IF you put your head on, timed it etc. and installed the engine in your car AND you have everything exactly right, the engine should start and run almost immediately after trying to start it. When it does hold the engine at around 1500-2000 rpm and let it stay there. Check it for leaks while it is doing this, check it for anything out of the ordinary. If you are using a standalone check the AFR's, look at the knock count etc. Dial in your AFR's a little so it is where it needs to be to run at this RPM. Hopefully you have a map that is right in the first place and you can just let it run. While the car is warming up the lifters will quiet down as the oil pressure builds and the air gets out of the lifters. Check the coolant, watch the coolant temps.

DO NOT just crank the engine to attempt to build oil pressure, it WILL BUILD INSTANTLY IF THE CAR STARTS.

ALL of our engines are built/assembled with a special lube. It is very sticky. I basically fill the crank shaft with it, so there is quite a bit of lube there and everything is very well coated. The engine could probably actually run with NO oil in it for a few minutes with no damage, we don't want that obviously.

Point is to TRIPLE check every single thing on the car first and then it should start instantly and run.

Once you are sure there are no leaks of any type and everything is tight and triple checked again you can either start some low throttle tuning or go for a drive.

As long as everything is 100% I could care less about a break in. Engines built here/assembled here and installed here are broken in on the dyno about 90% of the time. I have maps perfected for any combination we have. So the car is checked, loaded on the dyno. The idle, part throttle tuning is gone over and a few miles are put on the car at light loads to make sure it runs great and the AFR's are good. I do all the fuel mileage calibrations right on the dyno too. When this is done, the car is looked over again and then the tuning at low boost levels (20 psi or whatever) is done. I generally do the pump gas tunes first so the boost levels are lowest. As soon as they are done then the car is turned up and tuned on race gas if that is part of the build.

It is nothing to have a car with less than 10 miles on it at 40 psi of boost and 10,000 rpm. If it is going to fail then it is going to fail at that point and running it for 2,000 miles (whatever) easy is not going to change that. Running an engine for 2,000 miles to break it in is complete bullshit. It's most companies ways of getting you to take 6 months to be ready to run the car hard and by then they hope the warranty is over.

David Buschur

http://www.stockcarracing.com/techar..._in/index.html

http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm

Not sure if you know who Bj(boostxealot) is, but he has built several v6 hybrid monster motors and builds motors for evos in his spare time. Everyone one the motors he has built has 1 not only failed but 2 is built to hold at least 650hp. He uses the same procedure as listed above.

[Isaurio]

Mrg. I know who people are. Every tuner or engine builder has its own techniques on how to do certain things. First our block is not desing as a racing block. All the parts we put it works but it dont mean is for our blocks to work like a factory built. If you want to run it hard and fast by all mean do it.