A/C Compressor issues?

[phatboyslim12]

the car ran fine while wiggling wires and they look nice and clean as well, the junk yard that i went to was a pull yourself yard and i got the top 2 screws out and the bottom was rotted out and basically turned to dust when i tried un screwing it. they only wanted $25 for the iac, but only had 2 v6 mitsu's in the yard and both where pretty rotted out, i drove 45 mins to get there too!!! everywhere else i called or went to will not split the iac from the tb, and they want $100+ for the tb so thats out the question. im anout to rip the iac out my car and try cleaning it because this is turning into a nightmare...

[bgood12]

Yea I hear ya its a pain as it colder too.

[phatboyslim12]

yea its getting cooler here but its still 65+ at the moment, i just wanna get it done before the snow...

as for the iac the one i ended up breaking "at the junk yard" had a good amount of oil on it and i presume that is not good anyway, so maybe that one was bad, also the tb looked oiled up and really dirty compared to my tb, you can basically eat off the inside of mine it looks almost new...

i can say that when i was putting the intake tubing back onto the tb that i had to mess with the rubber end because the previous owner must have put it on wrong, the bottom of the rubber where the tubing attaches to the tb was bent, must have caught the bottom edge of the tb, and wedged it inside the tb, lol i fixed that when i did the cap and rotor, but could have messed with the iac who knows how long it was like that

[phatboyslim12]

ok, so if i attempt to clean the iac is it possible and what should i use?

[bgood12]

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=39350
go here download the manuals and see what it says about the iac, download index first so you know where to look.

[phatboyslim12]

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=39350
go here download the manuals and see what it says about the iac, download index first so you know where to look.

I have a 30 or so part manual I got from here but ill check that one out when I'm out of work, so first drive with it today running pretty rough it did rain last night pretty good.
Anyway I revved it up and upon the return to idle it stalled out
...

[phatboyslim12]

hey bgood, i have 2 other threads that i believe are related to the iac and wondering if theres a way to merge or close them and start a new thread with all three issues
these are:

this one: a/c making car run rough, car not staying running after cap/rotor replacement and battery pull, theres another but cant think of it soo...

[bgood12]

I think u have to ask an admin to close them for you

[phatboyslim12]

ok, thanks ill see what i can do.

in the meantime, lets continue...

so, i got some time to do some testing, and yes the iac is sticking. i tapped the unit very lightly and the car came back to life!!!, but then it got stuck again so i am going to prey the screws are not rusty... and clean the iac with throttlebody cleaner. when the iac is drying i am going to paint the screws to prevent future rust...

[bgood12]

Glad I could help man, it sucks its an expensive part and it sucks to take out too when the scres rust, if u do get them out replace the screws and perhaps th lil gasket, it should come with new one or be really cheap to buy, let me know if need part number.

[phatboyslim12]

i cleaned the iac let it dry and took it for a ride, first the car seemed to run better, took it out and the rough idle came back, i got home parked it popped the hood, as i got out i saw a few puffs of smoke so i turned the car off right away, could not locate and burnt/burning wires or anything like that besides some excess oil on the front valve cover looks to be leaking a lil from the oil cap, that could have been smoking but it was running only 5 or so minutes, and i can say that when its not running good the exhaust smells a bit...

i found an iac for a good price, im going to order it as soon as i get the cash. then ill clean up the engine and and keep my eye out for strange smells or smoke once its running good again. i will keep updated.

[bgood12]

only other thing could be check for vac leaks, I don't think v6 get throttle or intake mani cracks like the 4 cyl, good luck.

[phatboyslim12]

well when i tapped the iac earlier the issue went away for a minute and that tells me that the iac is bad, but im suprised the mil is still off, but friday im ordering the new one when i get paid, and i am pretty sure the vac system is good but ill check it out...

[bgood12]

If/when u get old iac out the manuals I showed you somewhere have how to test the iac, u put a ohm meter between two pins and see if its within spec so u can double check it also with that.

[phatboyslim12]

Funds permitting I should be able to order the iaccoca's today, I plan on making a better thread for people with possible issues

UPDATE:

so i ordered the iac, got a great price compared to the high prices at autozone, etc.

as soon as its in ill update the post, and ill also keep an eye on it...

[phatboyslim12]

i need HELP!!!!

so, yea this week has been very stressfull as the cars been in shop after shop and this issue is not being fixed, heres what has happened while the forum was down.

i recieved the iac on monday, and had no effect on the rough idle so i brought it to the shop that did the timing belt and they found a vacuum leak and said it was fixed, nope still has a rough idle, so i brought it to a nice shop that does bmw's etc, they couldnt notice the idle at first so i gave them more info and they got it to run rough and took them 3 days to diagnose, ended up saying it was the egr valve, so i had it replaced for $250, just picked it up and nope still running rough...

[bgood12]

damn bro, this sucks,is the car still almost stalling or just rough at idle. cause maybe the idle is fixed and a bad mount or something. but if its stalling that's ass cheeks.

[phatboyslim12]

damn bro, this sucks,is the car still almost stalling or just rough at idle. cause maybe the idle is fixed and a bad mount or something. but if its stalling that's ass cheeks.

okay, heres the deal...

so i spent almost $250 on the egr which i think is a bit much but anyway, the shop i went to said that was the issue but it didnt fix the issue, it began as soon as i left the shop.
i came home and as soon as it stopped raining i tore the intake tubing off and put the old iac back on and drove it. it ran very well for .3 miles then started acting up, as soon as i got home it stalled out cause the mechanic messed with the idle while the new iac was in...

so i started it back up and parked it then for curiosity i pulled the maf sensor wires while it was running rough, noticed that it idled basically as rough but with a bit less engine stumble...

i took out the intake tubing and put it on the ground while i put the new iac back in to fix the idle, when i put the tubing back in the maf was a bit wet, and it ran like crap after i put it back together.

so im begining to think it may be the maf but when the car is running good the maf being pulled will make it run like crap, i spent all my cash on this repair that didnt repair anything. i dont know if i can get my money back ill see what i can do, but well see.

[tamim13]

I'm sorry to hear that you have had to throw money at this issue and still not be able to get it fixed. Are you sure that no codes are being thrown? Can you check even if there are any codes that are stored but have not triggered the check engine light yet? Since you've already got some codes before, did they all go away with the stuff that you had done earlier?

I had rough idle on my car when the MAF sensor went bad. Basically the car would start from cold, but when the engine warmed up and the idle came down, the car would die as soon as I put it in gear. I did manage to throw the MAF code though. You can probably get a used MAF from someone here on the forum, or from eBay for cheap enough and throw it on as an option.

I remember reading someone mentioning that we should not be adjusting the idle on our cars, since they are fuel injected and the IAC controls the idle from the factory at the same level always.

[phatboyslim12]

I'm sorry to hear that you have had to throw money at this issue and still not be able to get it fixed. Are you sure that no codes are being thrown? Can you check even if there are any codes that are stored but have not triggered the check engine light yet? Since you've already got some codes before, did they all go away with the stuff that you had done earlier?

I had rough idle on my car when the MAF sensor went bad. Basically the car would start from cold, but when the engine warmed up and the idle came down, the car would die as soon as I put it in gear. I did manage to throw the MAF code though. You can probably get a used MAF from someone here on the forum, or from eBay for cheap enough and throw it on as an option.

I remember reading someone mentioning that we should not be adjusting the idle on our cars, since they are fuel injected and the IAC controls the idle from the factory at the same level always.

i own a code reader and no codes are being thrown at all. and i also know not to mess with the idle but i guess this guy didnt, im going to see if i can get the shop to reimburse me at least the labor as the egr is now used and un returnable, but i have a feeling ill be in a nice dispute till then anyway, if i get my cash back ill try the maf