Phizzalot's 7G Awd Build

[phizzalot]

So its been a long time purchasing and researching this but Iam at the point where I have some stuff to show.

Before I Start I would like to first Thank Eclipsh And MKO for answering all my pm's :) Along with the rest of the tgc community!!!

General Break down.

1997 Galant ES
1999 Eclipse GSX ECU

1996 Talon Tsi AWD (Drivetrain Parts)
Awd Transmission
Front driver Side Axle with HalfShaft*
Transfercase
DriveShaft Axle
Crarrier bearing Brackets (2pcs)
Rear Subframe
Rear Knuckles / Hubs/ Disc Brakes /
Rear Axle's
Rear LSD Diff
Gas Tank with Straps.
Misc Bolts / Bushings

So here is a photo of the empty ES Bay after some cleaning.


Another


I choose Rivets to hold up the carrier bearing Brackets for now.
I plan on getting some additional welds when I get access to a lift.




Motor is in and all hooked up


I couldn't get a good pic of the rear subframe but will try to take better pics when I get more room.


Another pic of when I was working on subframe bolts.




Here is a modification I made to the fuel tank overflow line to hook up the 7g filler neck.


So if anyone wants me to take more detailed pictures or has questions let me know.

Currently I have a problem that hopefully some here can help out with. When I turn my ignition to the ON position I hear the fuel pump start to whine but it does NOT turn off. I've read in the Haynes Manual that its suppose to prime the system for a second or two and then turn off. But in my case its staying on, I can also feel gas running through the return line when touched.

Anyone have an Idea on a solution? I Haven't tried to Start the car yet but otherwise the Check Engine lights up like usual and turns off after a few seconds with ignition in the on position, so iam hoping its not the ecu. The 97 looks to have one OEM Fuel relay box and Iam not sure if its bad or not.

[eclipsh]

Congrats on getting so far along. Good luck with the fuel pump wiring. Do you have your drive shaft done yet? Those pop rivets aren't going to hold much of anything so I wouldn't drive around with it like that.

[phizzalot]

Thanks :), Ive got the Volt meter out and started testing.
7g has 5 wires for fuel pump
In my case...

Yel/Green Stripe = 12v
Blk/Blue Stripe = 12v
Yellow = 6v ( Gas Level, I believe it reads 10 when empty and 0 when full)
blk = Ground
Thick Blk = Ground

So either the yel/green wire or blk/blue wire is suppose to return to 0 after a few seconds at the ON position but thats not happening.

I need to first determine which one is suppose to turn off and then trace that wire back to either the Solenoid, ECU or Relay and replace the unit thats not working.
Makes Sense?

Edit........

Ohh and the Rivets are steel which are alot stronger then Aluminum ones. I got the Idea from the awd merged thread on dsmtuners. I just need them to hold for a quick drive around the corner where theres a lift for welding the brackets in.

[kolio]

great work so far!!!

[wetamup2k3g]

That's pretty dope! More pics!

[qnz]

Haven't heard from you in a while Ron. Glad to see you still have the 7g. Any Evo love?

[phizzalot]

Sup Qnz, haven't been around the forums much, because work took up all my time but thats not the case anymore :S

The Evo has been neglected exterior wise. It needs a wash but has a nice exedy twin and Buschur Intercooler/ licp / zeitronix parts as well...

As for the my Fuel pump I determined the black/blue stripe wire is the one that is suppose to be turning on/off from the relay. I think I have the problem Jip was talking about at the end of his ecu swap tutorial and will be bypasing the relay and doing the fuel pump rewire to correct this issue.

[phizzalot]

Just an Update. Just got the car to turn over :).

Everything with the fuel pump was wired correctly, I just missed connecting the second wire to the starter. Just need to lower the car off jack stands now and go get the exhaust done...

Good times :)

[finald8ta]

sweet

[phizzalot]

So more news. I picked up the Drive Shaft and installed it. Also picked up 3g eclipse wheels and TB/ISC from a 1g awd talon tsi.
I also grabbed the Apexi downpipe and muffler from the 1G AWD Talon TSI, It was only $14.00 dollars :)

As for the car running I have gotten it to start up and it trys to idle but die's quickly with the cas error p0340. I looked over my wiring and iam going to change it up a bit based off tutorials here and other forums. I will update with a video when I get it going.

A few pics below. ( I know the pics sux oily fingers and iphone dosent mix well :( )

[w/oarctic7g]

Nice work. Gsx driveline with one section lengthened? if so which section? Can you post more pics of brackets and driveline when its up on the lift.

[imback]

Make sure to replace the shaft seals on the 1g throttle body before throwing it on and to check the isc coils to save your self the headache. If it's the older style beige/brown one the resistance should be between 28-33 ohm's and the newer black one's around 40.

[mko]

I fixed your pictures tho.

Its weird that my rear hanger seems to be on the very same spot as yours, but the driveshaft wont line up.

[phizzalot]

Thanks for fixing the pics....

I lengthened the middle section, I believe the intermediate shaft. I had a drive shaft shop in lantana beach fl that has been modifying drive shafts since the 70's do it. He was really helpful, I basically test fitted the front part of the drive shaft and riveted in the front bracket, then took it down and test fitted the rear section and riveted in rear bracket. I measured the distance for the middle section and gave it to the shop to extend it. He had to order the part due to it being metric and he used other methods to keep the carrier bearing from being damaged when he modified it. He also re grease all joints and gave the entire drive shaft a look over.

The middle section is a little slanted by about a half an inch, I may drill out the rivets and line up better later on. I got the brackets from an ebay seller *stangmurder which were in really good shape.

As for the ISC, I have to take a closer look at that as it may be the reason why iam not idling, car cranks and runs for a few seconds searching for an idle point and then dies with a p0340 code.

[imback]

Check the cam sensor.

[mko]

on this picture, where the yellow spot is, you can see that the shaft is off-centered to the left. I wonder if that will cause problems. I guess mine is the same way, but Im using solid drive shaft bushings and they dont allow any play at all vs. the stock rubber ones.

[phizzalot]

I remember reading eclipsh thread and asking the driveshaft shop. Mitsu designed this driveshaft to have left/right play as well as in/out play allowing it not to have major issues if installed to far off from left or right or even if the driveshaft is a little shorter. Iam sure if I were using solid bushings I could have issues but as for now looks fine.

[phizzalot]

Quick startup vid ...

The smoke from manifold area is just from left over oil smudges when I was putting everything together and it rained the night before. Hopefully will get some driving vids soon..

[Armandotech]

Are you in orlando or ft lauderdale? Would love to check your car out :)

[phizzalot]

Are you in orlando or ft lauderdale? Would love to check your car out :)

Iam actually in West Palm now. The car is on jack stands now as iam getting the exhaust together. I was able to get ecuflash hoked up and start playing around with tactrix cable / evoscan as well which is pretty nice.