Oil preassure light flashing really dim at idle???

**OMEGA PHX** · 10-23-2012, 11:04 AM

My G is idling at like 700-750 rpms and the light flashes very dimly it is nearly impossible to see it, but sometimes if the rpms go a little lower the light comes on completely, when that happens I give it a little gas and it immediately turns off, whats wrong? Is the oil pump going bad, or the sender? Oil level is where it should be. Need

**M-Rod** · 10-23-2012, 11:09 AM

I would start with the sender. Its most likely the problem.

**oakrdrs187** · 10-23-2012, 06:47 PM

Either low on oil or the oil sender is but, after oil level is confirmed replace sender.

**OMEGA PHX** · 10-26-2012, 07:21 PM

Just wanted to give a little more info, this only happens when the engine is at normal temp and I've been driving for 20-25 minutes, when engine is cold or been driving for a little it doesn't happen. I'm thinking its because when engine is hot oil gets too thin and pressure goes down, I'm using full syntethic havoline 5w30, temps over here are always in the 85-90F. I think I'll do a oil change and see what happens

**M-Rod** · 10-26-2012, 09:02 PM

Same exact symptoms mine was having when the sender was bad.

**OMEGA PHX** · 10-26-2012, 09:18 PM

Then I'll go ahead and buy the sender for sure, thanks for your help guys

**thegalant** · 10-28-2012, 02:46 PM

Originally Posted by OMEGA PHX

Then I'll go ahead and buy the sender for sure, thanks for your help guys

I had hte same problem, I replaced the sender with a new one and problem solved. I believe the original Denso gets clogged with dirty oil. I think the replacement was Bosch?

**Palmz** · 11-01-2012, 04:53 PM

Is it me ore is the sender the only know issue on the gallant.. this was a problem when i bought mine too. i bought an aftermarket from the dealer for about 11$ cos the oem cost about 50$ the dealer said the aftermarket would maybe last as long. still going strong

**thegalant** · 11-02-2012, 03:00 PM

Originally Posted by pernir

Is it me ore is the sender the only know issue on the gallant.. this was a problem when i bought mine too. i bought an aftermarket from the dealer for about 11$ cos the oem cost about 50$ the dealer said the aftermarket would maybe last as long. still going strong

I'll bet the old one is still good too, I bet if you cleaned out the old one with carb or brake cleaner it would work fine. It's just the fact that it gets clogged... and If the OEM part is better it's probably better to clean it out and reuse it then buy the cheaper one... I think.

**Galanttuner10** · 11-02-2012, 05:03 PM

personally i would unscrew the sender and hook up a mechanical gauge. if the gauge says the pressure is in spec then its a sender, if it is low, its not the oil pump.

**OMEGA PHX** · 11-20-2012, 02:43 PM

I bought the sender but haven't installed it, I think I have another problem other than the sender, I adjusted the tps and idle screw but it keeps doing it the thing is that rpms go to 500 or so and thats when it happens also when I turn on the ac rpms drop fast to approx. 500 and that make this light flash too, as seen in the vid I give it gas and it turns off immediately. Everything happens when I've been driving for 20 minutes or more:

**Silvertune** · 11-20-2012, 06:14 PM

If it isn't the sender malfunctioning then it's telling you your days with that engine are limited. Factory oil pressure is at 700 RPM idle is between 5 and 9 psi. The light trips at 4 or below. That said if you're really only making that pressure at idle you're bearings have worn and you better take good care of it. It's quite common on 3g's as well.

**OMEGA PHX** · 11-20-2012, 06:58 PM

Originally Posted by Silvertune

If it isn't the sender malfunctioning then it's telling you your days with that engine are limited. Factory oil pressure is at 700 RPM idle is between 5 and 9 psi. The light trips at 4 or below. That said if you're really only making that pressure at idle you're bearings have worn and you better take good care of it. It's quite common on 3g's as well.

I'll try to check the oil pressure soon. the thing is that rpms also drop from time to time and the light comes on, when turn on the a/c they drop fast to 500 and the light come on and then it stabilize at 750 again. I really hope its not the engine and its just a vacuum leak or egr stuff or something, although I have a spare engine but it has 200k Damn..:(

**thegalant** · 11-20-2012, 10:37 PM

Originally Posted by OMEGA PHX

I bought the sender but haven't installed it, I think I have another problem other than the sender, I adjusted the tps and idle screw but it keeps doing it the thing is that rpms go to 500 or so and thats when it happens also when I turn on the ac rpms drop fast to approx. 500 and that make this light flash too, as seen in the vid I give it gas and it turns off immediately. Everything happens when I've been driving for 20 minutes or more:

On my car which is the same as yours the idle screw is all the way in and the tps should not be adjusted. The TPS should be all the way to one side whichever side makes it have maximum rotation or you could crack it when you step on the gas. tps should be maximum looseness with no pressure on it at all.

**OMEGA PHX** · 11-20-2012, 10:49 PM

Originally Posted by thegalant

On my car which is the same as yours the idle screw is all the way in and the tps should not be adjusted. The TPS should be all the way to one side whichever side makes it have maximum rotation or you could crack it when you step on the gas. tps should be maximum looseness with no pressure on it at all.

I don't agree with anything you just said, and I would like to see who else agrees with you.

**Silvertune** · 11-20-2012, 10:57 PM

thegalant is an idiot. The TPS is properly adjusted when it just hits 100% at wide open throttle, otherwise the idle percentage will fall where it may. The voltage migrates over time as the sensor wears and the ECU keeps track of this. Readjusting is simply setting it to the above condition, nothing else and this is per the FSM so thegalant can suck me if he wants to argue.

The idler screw has many wrong arguments made about it. Contrary to some popular belief it IS there for setting the idle. This however is only so under circumstances of zero vac leaks and those who usually use it to set idle are bandaiding vacuum leaks. When your system is tested and shows no leaks then you let the car come up to engine heat and set the screw so that the engine idles between 700 and 750 RPMs. This puts the steady butterfly bypass rate at a level the ECU can work with to keep the car running under all situations.

**OMEGA PHX** · 11-20-2012, 11:51 PM

Been reading some more and this is more common than I though so this is my to do list:

1) Do a Oil pressure test at op. temp idling and at 3000k
2) Replace Oil pressure sender
3) Check if oil pan is bent and blocking the oil pick up
4) Take off the oil pan and check if pick up is clogged
5) Do a oil change (put thicker oil maybe or a lucas stabilizer)

I'll update once I do this Thanks for the help everyone.