Hello TGC San Antonio here!!!

**DEADEYES** · 02-24-2013, 10:08 PM

Originally Posted by wetamup2k3g

I assume you undid the injector clips to keep the injectors from spraying fuel when doing the compression test. For future reference so you don't have to deal with those clips, pull the fuel pump relay then start the car, the car will die after a few seconds. What this does is stop the fuel pump from running then starting the car burns the leftover fuel pressure in the lines.

What you can do is repeat the compression test but squirt oil in the cylinders before each crank. What that'll do is temporarily seal your pistons in the cylinder so you can isolate your results. If after squirting oil in #2 if the pressure rises up then you know it's the rings. If your results stay the same it could be valve guides, bent valves, head gasket leaking compression, etc. Hope this helps!

That is exactly why we unclipped em and your way is waaaay more convenient thx

As for your second advice I forgot to add that we put a splash of oil in it and it rose to around 200... so definately rings then right?

Thanks for the advice though. What do you think the chances are the pistons aren"out-of-round"?

**wetamup2k3g** · 02-24-2013, 10:52 PM

I would think it's rings then. I highly doubt you made the once-round pistons unround while still able to drive the car normally, but it could be possible. I highly doubt the piston are out of round though. The newest 7G is still 15 years old, it's not a stretch to think the cylinder walls or the rings have enough wear to lose compression. I've only torn down one engine in my lifetime though (well, more than that if you consider reciprocating piston railcar air compressors "engines" (they have blocks that are almost identical to engine blocks) but I've never seen a piston out of round), you might want to have a more experienced engine builder chime in.

**DEADEYES** · 03-03-2013, 07:20 PM

So I've weighed out some options and I am just gonna drive it until I cant anymore and we'll see what happens after that as far as the rings are concerned.

Now the last month or so I have noticed a little bit of hesitation when getting up to speed, none at all during WOT, so my friend and I chalked some of that up to the bad cylinder but more so to a dirty throttle body.
So I went and bought some carburetor/throttle body cleaner and a few vacuum hoses that I needed to replace.

First I replaced the hoses cause that was easier "plug and play" am I right lol
After that I disconnected the battery all together + and - then went on to the throttle body. Took off the "hose" thats after MAS but before the TB, and once I put the slightest bit of pressure to open the butterfly you could tell that it hadn't been cleaned in a very very long time

Before. Dunno why this pic is smaller. My phone sucks what can I say

After. (and yes I cleaned it more after this pic was taken haha)

So I put it all back together and took it around the block a few times to burn off the cleaner and such. did a few dead stop take-offs, went all the way into 4th a few times driving normally, then did a final WOT pull.
The difference was almost immediate in how it ran spuddered a few times but only slight misses due to the bad cylinder.

But there is a strange problem my idle is crazy high now.

Doesn't matter the gear or if the clutch is in, it just wants to idle at around 1700

I asked a friend if I would have to set the BISS he said It shouldn't have affected base idle at all.
I came to the conclusion that maybe the car lot I got it from raised the idle instead of cleaning the TB.
Got my friend in the car to tell me the idle speed while I adjusted it, at first I loosened it. Got it to about 2200 he said so then I slowly started tightening it and once I tightened it all the way it dipped to 1k ONCE.
Tried this several times no success, oh and also the BISS screw was so old and worn that the screw head literally stripped with the slightest pressure and fell apart but Its back where it was.

I also sprayed the carb cleaner EVERYWHERE to check for vacuum leaks...none.

So anybody out there got an idea whats up? Was thinking its the MAS but I dunno I took out the battery and shit so unless something hit the actual sensor I don't think that would be it.

Anything helps guys!

**Black8GV6** · 03-03-2013, 08:10 PM

Do you see the two square holes the bottom of the throttle body? those holes go to the IAC, if the cleaner got in there and got on the IAC and then you started the car you most likely ruined the IAC. You'll have to get another one. A new one is about $250 and a junk yard one is about $20.

EDIT: I just read you destroyed your BISS screw too, good luck

**M-Rod** · 03-03-2013, 08:30 PM

I'm not sure why so many people feel the need to mess with the biss screw. If something is out of whack and there is no vacuum leak or improperly routed vacuum lines, IAC should be the first thing inspected.

**DEADEYES** · 03-03-2013, 09:22 PM

I did think about the IAC a few minutes after posting and I probably did get some cleaner or gunk or something on it haha Like always shit comes to you outta nowhere after you post something.

Luckily though I have another 94 galant right next to my gs lol so I don't need to spend anything for the IAC

And as far as the biss screw goes had I known it was gonna literally fall apart I wouldn't have touched it, but it's cool I'm getting a different TB soon anyway ;] so not a big deal to me.

Thanks for the help guys. I'm off tomorrow so I'll swap out my IAC with the one in my LS and update tomorrow to see if it's fixed, don't see why it wouldn't be.

**Black8GV6** · 03-03-2013, 10:17 PM

After you swap out the IAC and throttle body, start the car and let it sit for about 10 minutes, let the computer adjust itself, then drive normal (don't floor the gas pedal) for about 10 minutes so the computer can again adjust itself and the idle should go back to normal, don't adjust the BISS screw on the other throttle body

**DEADEYES** · 03-03-2013, 10:39 PM

Originally Posted by Black8GV6

After you swap out the IAC and throttle body, start the car and let it sit for about 10 minutes, let the computer adjust itself, then drive normal (don't floor the gas pedal) for about 10 minutes so the computer can again adjust itself and the idle should go back to normal, don't adjust the BISS screw on the other throttle body

Exactly what I was gonna do in the morning, and believe me not touching that BISS again haha
I hate having car problems but I love waking up early and working on cars all day. But then again I have a spare for every part on my car minus the DOHC specific parts and the 5spd so I guess that helps me not get upset or frustrated haha

Thx for the quick responses Black8g and M-rod
Like I said will post tomorrow after it's all said and done.

**DEADEYES** · 03-05-2013, 11:28 PM

So I WAS gonna just swap out my whole throttle body for the bigger diamante one from the local pick-n-pull but my car is fine after two days, I'm guessing the ecu took a bit to learn everything again? Either way the IAC seems fine and I am still picking up the bigger TB for future plans.

Quick question though, is the size different for the GS TB's? Is it 54mm? Just curious if the GS one was any diff seeing as most of the car is.

**DEADEYES** · 03-15-2013, 06:07 PM

I got some updates nothing major really... I have noticed that my post's tend to get pretty long so sorry if you don't like detail and typed words.

So I went to the junkyard this past monday and picked up some things mainly a 72 diamante tb that i found instantly and a 98 hood in white ;D only one in the yard
I didn't stay long as there were other things that needed to get done but i found at least one GS in the yard but it was automatic, I was dumbfounded.
Anyway im gonna go back sometime next weekend and look for more gs's and my list of stuff to check out.

My girlfriend also surprised me with some stuff for my car this past weekend that she bought 2 weeks ago.
A Ralliart 5spd knob and a ralliart red stitched leather boot to match!
BTW sorry my phone's camera sucks

Installed yesterday and as much as I loved the stock knob/boot I must admit these are much nicer in my opinion especially the knob.
Also I like longer shifters so no short throws for me ;D

Swapped the manual trim for my automatic one(easier to make boot fit plus bigger spot for the 5spd sticker) but I still need to attach the cover to it better.

Now a few days ago I noticed my clutch felt wierd & was vibrating a little bit when downshifting and slowing down so I looked at my fluid level, lines, master, and slave.
Everything was fine then but it happened again so i didn't drive again until yesterday drove great no problems but today driving home it wouldn't go into gear several times.
By the time I got home it wouldn't go into gear at ALL while running. Turned it off, popped the hood, and found this.

My slave started leaking everywhere and is completely busted.
Needless to say I have bought a new one including fluid so Sunday i'm going to take off/install new slave, and flush/bleed lines.
And if time permits install some jdm goodies that have recently been delivered.

**master_visionary** · 03-15-2013, 07:53 PM

nice you'll have fun with this car at the yard you wanna know about interchange lmk

**master_visionary** · 03-15-2013, 08:03 PM

that's genius :) learn everyday

where'd yu learn that

oh forgot it would go on the end
(reference) oil in cylinders to isolate leaks

**DEADEYES** · 03-15-2013, 08:21 PM

Originally Posted by master_visionary

nice you'll have fun with this car at the yard you wanna know about interchange lmk

Oh man the local yard is awesome so fun to just test out stuff haha I can't wait to devote a full day to it!
And man I would LOVE to know about all the different interchangeable parts, I've read through a lost of threads on here, maybe even too much. I think I've had an information overload haha

**DEADEYES** · 03-19-2013, 10:01 PM

So Some problems came up. the other day while driving I noticed my clutch pedal started to vibrate a little only happened twice then went away completely for the next two days. then on Saturday while driving home I sometimes couldn't get it to go in gear at all by the time I got to my house I couldn't get it outta neutral.
first thing I did was look on the forums for similar problems found a few talking bout the slave cylinder failing.
Sure enough went out side to find that my slave was leaking pretty badly and my matter was also leaking a little on the push rod.
Sunday and yesterday I bought and installed brand new slave and master cylinders adjusted my pedal then flushed/bled my clutch line for a goooooood long while to make sure there wasn't any air in the lines.
After all this it still will not shift out of neutral. Next on my list is the throwout bearing/pressure plate in which case I am going to buy a new clutch kit and flywheel sooner than I thought
Just wondering if anyone else has some input on this as it would be greatly appreciated.

**DEADEYES** · 04-21-2013, 05:24 PM

Originally Posted by master_visionary

that's genius :) learn everyday

where'd yu learn that

oh forgot it would go on the end
(reference) oil in cylinders to isolate leaks

My good friend told me about it actually lol I pretty much don't touch my car for major stuff unless he's there to help/advise on stuff. it is genius though
I posted a link to his car in this thread I believe it's pretty awesome you should check it out.

Also just realized I never updated this after I got my car fixed.
In short it runs like a champ with the exedy clutch and fidanza flywheel.
I do a bigger update when I get home tomorrow after work I also have a question about the sunroof in our 7g's but I'll go more into detail on that later.

**DEADEYES** · 04-25-2013, 06:29 PM

Ok so haven't updated in awhile not much news though, just waiting to have time off to install these beauties mainly.

Picked em up for 100 bucks shipped no broken tabs, all pig tails included... just plain perfect.

Anyway on to my sunroof questions/problems/whatever you want to call it. Unfortunately my sunroof has never worked in my GS, the one in my LS works like a champ.
Soon after bringing her home I started by of course checking the fuse which was good, then after messing with the switches for awhile trying to get it to open I realized that the actual assembly was different than in my LS.

LS

GS

Are they supposed to be two different ones? Cause the one in my GS (2nd pic) doesnt have the third screw hole which causes it to sit differently and not fit snuggly.

A few days ago I got annoyed by the heat of driving and a little curious as to why the f*** the assembly was different and why the roof won't open so I took off my light assembly and found out immediately why my sunroof doesn't work lol

Someone just cut the pig tail off and spliced the wiring for the lights straight into the cars harness.

So basically since I have a parts car I was just gonna cut the male and female pigtails from my LS and attach them to the GS.
Question is this: There shouldn't be a problem in doing this correct? just match the wires and boom, working sunroof (granted thats the only problem), right?

**DEADEYES** · 05-02-2013, 08:46 PM

So no 7g guys have any input on the dome light assembly's?

**DEADEYES** · 06-05-2013, 12:04 AM

I think my car loves me. This past weekend I finally passed 1k miles on the new clutch, flywheel, slave and master cylinders. I rotated my tires, got rid of the air box and replaced with a cone filter, bought some heavy duty terminal connectors and some misc hoses that needed replacing, and finally swapped my maf with the one from my spare galant due to the filament being bent.

Not only does it run fucking fantastic and drive spectacularly I found something awesome under my spare tire. The tire tie down was so stuck and hard to get out I guess no one ever looked under the tire. Wrestled with it for half an hour, got it off and found a moldy yellow envelope with tons of water and rust stains and a ripped hole on the side... through the hole I saw a $20 bill! It was FULL of money!! All in all it had 2 twenty's, a ten and 17 or so one's!! The newest bill was a ten from 2003!